Leviton EVSE Group Buy - Are you interested ?

[prberg]

I would be interested in a group buy for the Leviton EVSE. I would probably want the larger 30amp model (probably wouldn't cost much more than the 16amp one right?). I live in the Los Angeles area if it matters. I hope to skip the AV EVSE if possible.

thanks,
Peter

 

[garygid]

If the EVSE and attached car are involved in charging, and the user attempts to unplug the EVSE from the wall WITHOUT first pressing the "STOP" button on the EVSE, there will be substantial current flowing.

Much like trying to unplug a running dryer, the breaking of the current flow is somewhat dangerous (possible sparks and hot metal), and should ALWAYS be avoided (except in some total EMERGENCY where the need to disconnect this way outweighs the risks). Also, "breaking" the current flow will usually "pit" the contacts.

So, one should ALWAYS stop the current flow FIRST.

I would prefer a socket with a built-in, properly-rated switch, but those type of switches are rarely rated for anything over 20 amps. Thus, an easily-accessable, east-to-operate, properly-rated "disconnect", located right near the EVSE (and plug) would typucally be a wise safety precaution.

But, those who would forget to press "STOP" before unplugging, the disconnect would probably not help, and hard-wired connections should be considered (instead of a plug-in connection).

 

[sjfotos]

If the EVSE and attached car are involved in charging, and the user attempts to unplug the EVSE from the wall WITHOUT first pressing the "STOP" button on the EVSE, there will be substantial current flowing.

Much like trying to unplug a running dryer, the breaking of the current flow is somewhat dangerous (possible sparks and hot metal), and should ALWAYS be avoided (except in some total EMERGENCY where the need to disconnect this way outweighs the risks). Also, "breaking" the current flow will usually "pit" the contacts.

So, one should ALWAYS stop the current flow FIRST.

I would prefer a socket with a built-in, properly-rated switch, but those type of switches are rarely rated for anything over 20 amps. Thus, an easily-accessable, east-to-operate, properly-rated "disconnect", located right near the EVSE (and plug) would typucally be a wise safety precaution.

But, those who would forget to press "STOP" before unplugging, the disconnect would probably not help, and hard-wired connections should be considered (instead of a plug-in connection).

I am thinking a knife switch on the garage wall, wired in line and prior to the outlet unit, would be a good idea.

 

[EVDRIVER]

If the EVSE and attached car are involved in charging, and the user attempts to unplug the EVSE from the wall WITHOUT first pressing the "STOP" button on the EVSE, there will be substantial current flowing.

Much like trying to unplug a running dryer, the breaking of the current flow is somewhat dangerous (possible sparks and hot metal), and should ALWAYS be avoided (except in some total EMERGENCY where the need to disconnect this way outweighs the risks). Also, "breaking" the current flow will usually "pit" the contacts.

So, one should ALWAYS stop the current flow FIRST.

I would prefer a socket with a built-in, properly-rated switch, but those type of switches are rarely rated for anything over 20 amps. Thus, an easily-accessable, east-to-operate, properly-rated "disconnect", located right near the EVSE (and plug) would typucally be a wise safety precaution.

But, those who would forget to press "STOP" before unplugging, the disconnect would probably not help, and hard-wired connections should be considered (instead of a plug-in connection).

I am thinking a knife switch on the garage wall, wired in line and prior to the outlet unit, would be a good idea.

There is a circuit breaker at the panel and a highly sensitive GFI in the EVSE, the added switch is overkill but if it makes you comfortable then do it. People have been charging EVs without EVSEs for over ten years and as far as I know no one has been killed. The GFI on the EVSE is so fast and there is more than one fail safe. The chance of being shocked in you home is far, far greater.

 

[jev77]

Also I am thinking that there is a function in the J1772 connector that when you start removing the plug from the car, the 2 pins inside the plug that are for communication to the EVSE sense that it is being disconnected (by being slightley shorter and thereby disconnecting first) and shuts down the power. Of course, most of the time you will just push the off button on the EVSE first.

 

[garygid]

If charging is finished, and no pre-heat/cooling going on, the car should have "signaled" the EVSE to open the power relay.

The "normal" way to interrupt on-going charging (or heating/cooling) would be to press the STOP button (if there is one) on the nearby EVSE.

Or, as an alternate "normal" method, press the latch-release on the J1772 "e-plug" at the car, pause a small fraction of a second for the EVSE to shut the power off (open its power relay, you might hear the "click"), and pull the "e-nozzle" out of the car's e-fuel socket.

Then, "coiling" or otherwise getting the e-hose off the floor will keep the cable cleaner, and help avoid driving over the cord or the e-nozzle.

 

[DarkStar]

If the EVSE and attached car are involved in charging, and the user attempts to unplug the EVSE from the wall WITHOUT first pressing the "STOP" button on the EVSE, there will be substantial current flowing.

Part of the J1772 specification requires the latch in the handle of the plug to have a switch that interfaces with the EVSE. When you press the latch to remove the plug the EVSE will automatically open the contactor for the 240 volt (or 120 volt) feed.

No worries about forgetting to press the "Stop" button, the latch does the exact same thing.

 

[garygid]

Un-plugging the EVSE from the wall, WHILE actively-charging, is a different issue, and long-time EV users know enough to avoid doing that.

However, for many people, there is a learning curve associated with using high-powered equipment, at least for the first time.

But, some are slow to learn about smoking while fueling at the gas pumps.
Perhaps Darwin at work?

After all, if there are no selection mechanisms, how will the species improve (or avoid everybody needing glasses)?

 

[jev77]

I just don't see someone trying to unplug the EVSE as upposed to pushing the "off" button. I mean it takes so much more effort to do that. It would be like to open a door, taking the pins out of the hinges instead of turning the nob. I'm assuming you are taliking about the Leviton EVSE. I think that is the only one that is not hard wired but doesn't it also have a plastic cover over the plug making it that much more difficult to unplug?

 

[Boomer23]

I'm interested in a group buy.

 

[LakeLeaf]

The Leviton is looking quite attractive. Being able to transport the charge itself by not having it hardwired in is great.

I have a generator with 240v/30A output. Anyone know if you could run a charger off of something like this if needed, or is the power isn't clean enough for an EVSE?

 

[EVDRIVER]

Unplugging an EVSE while charging should not be an issue, as well as pulling the plug while charging. This is no different than a power failure. There were issues with PFC chargers and applying power without a load but those are hobbyist chargers. The entire Leaf/EVSE system is going to be dummy proof, people will pull plugs, cut power, etc and the system needs to protect from that. People have Kids, enough said. Fool proof charging will be one of the highest priorities for many reasons and it's being blow out of proportion here over and over and will continue to be to the point of silliness until everyone finds out it was all for nothing.

 

[EVDRIVER]

The Leviton is looking quite attractive. Being able to transport the charge itself by not having it hardwired in is great.

I have a generator with 240v/30A output. Anyone know if you could run a charger off of something like this if needed, or is the power isn't clean enough for an EVSE?

Why would you do that? Do you mean a portable generator?

 

[LakeLeaf]

Why would you do that? Do you mean a portable generator?

Yes - a portable generator. In the case I need to travel more then 100ish miles and don't want to flatbed. (Nearest Leaf dealer is more then a "tank" away - so if I have to take the car for service before a closer Nissan dealer decides to do the Leaf - it would be nice to be able to add 20 or 30 miles to the tank part way home and not have to flatbed the car)

 

[LEAFer]

Why would you do that? Do you mean a portable generator?

Yes - a portable generator. In the case I need to travel more then 100ish miles and don't want to flatbed. (Nearest Leaf dealer is more then a "tank" away - so if I have to take the car for service before a closer Nissan dealer decides to do the Leaf - it would be nice to be able to add 20 or 30 miles to the tank part way home and not have to flatbed the car)

Too much trouble. You'll have charging spots you will be able to use prior to having to do this. Possibly even a fellow LEAF owner.

 

[smkettner]

The Leviton is looking quite attractive. Being able to transport the charge itself by not having it hardwired in is great.

I have a generator with 240v/30A output. Anyone know if you could run a charger off of something like this if needed, or is the power isn't clean enough for an EVSE?

Should be not trouble at all.

You could also try an RV park with 50amp service if they would let you plug in your portable EVSE. The connector would be a NEMA 14-50R if you need an adapter.

 

[LakeLeaf]

Should be not trouble at all.

You could also try an RV park with 50amp service if they would let you plug in your portable EVSE. The connector would be a NEMA 14-50R if you need an adapter.

Living in the mountains, there is little chance that a charge station will pop up on my road home some day in the near future. On the other hand - there are quite a few campgrounds with RV hookups between there and here. Great idea! I hadn't even thought of this. All the more reason to go with the Leviton.

 

[garygid]

The initial LEAF will only have 3.3 kW (15 or 16 amp) L2 charging. So, initially, the 30-amp output is more than enough power.

The generator might not output a "normal" smooth sine wave, but you can check its specs. It is unlikely that a "modified-sine wave" output would not work for the EVSE, but the LEAF's charger might not like a non-standard input ... depends upon how it was designed.

Usually such a powerful generator is a bit large, rather heavy, and will only run for an hour or two at maximum output.
What brand and model is yours, please?

Is the 30-amp rating "peak" or "continuous" output?

 

[mitch672]

just lugging a 200-300# generator around, and using gasoline to recharge the Leaf is probably not the best idea.

RV parks are a much better choice, just make an L14-50R adapter to an 6-30R, if you want to be extra safe you can put a 2 pole 30A breaker inline in the special cord you make.

Also, many hotels use 6-20R receptacles for the built in windows AC/heat units, so making an adapter for that might also allow you to stop at a motel for a charge.

Thirdly, a commercial laundramat may also have some electric dryer outlets, but most are probably natural gas... and of course most residential houses usually have a 30A electric dryer outlet (some even if they use natural gas)

any of these 3 are better than dragging a gas generator around with you...

in all of these cases having a portable L2 EVSE such as the Leviton is a great idea, along with an assortment of adapters.

 

[LakeLeaf]

The initial LEAF will only have 3.3 kW (15 or 16 amp) L2 charging. So, initially, the 30-amp output is more than enough power.

The generator might not output a "normal" smooth sine wave, but you can check its specs. It is unlikely that a "modified-sine wave" output would not work for the EVSE, but the LEAF's charger might not like a non-standard input ... depends upon how it was designed.

Yes - this is one of my concerns. I have a transfer switch that I can hook the generator into and it allows me to run most of the circuits in my house when we lose power. However - the UPS's protecting all of my servers and workstations really don't seem to like the "modified-sine wave output" from the generator - although they seem to keep working - they just scream a lot. I tend to try to shut things off unless I really need to keep them going.

This would be one of my concerns for the EVSE/Leaf. Would the power output be compatible. I guess there is only really one way to find out , but I'd like a little more knowledge before I'd do any testing.

Usually such a powerful generator is a bit large, rather heavy, and will only run for an hour or two at maximum output.
What brand and model is yours, please?

It's a Generac 7000EXL. Not sure how long it runs at full output - but runs for hours and hours if I need it during a blizzard without needing to rest - but so far I haven't pulled all that much amperage from it.

It weights 250lbs, so not easy to get into the back of the car, but the form factor might just fit.

Is the 30-amp rating "peak" or "continuous" output?

I believe it is continuous. It has a NEMA# L14-30R 30 Amp 120/240 VAC connector for its 240V output.

It looks like it's going to be about a year after my Leaf is delivered until a dealer close enough to me to get there and/or get back will be Leaf certified. So if I need any service visits in the first year, it would be nice to have a plan whereas I wouldn't have to flatbed it back home from the dealer. The campground mentioned above already sounds like a better plan then a generator - but I like to have options.