Nissan Leaf Predicted to Retain 95% of Its Value In One Year

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surfingslovak

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The NADA Official Used Car Guide has added average trade-in value for 1-year-old Nissan Leaf to its used-vehicle value listings.

In its June edition, the guide will project the average trade-in value for a typically equipped 2011 Leaf SV electric car at $23,975 -- 95 percent of its sticker price of $25,280, after the $7,500 federal tax credit available to buyers who purchase the vehicle new.
http://bit.ly/leafresalevalue" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
Well, My 2011 SL with QC was just sold to my Sister. Before I did that, I went to CarMax. They Bid $23,000 for it. She paid me the same. Heres the Math. I paid 38302 with TTL. 11000 down, andhad it for a year, with 12650 miles. I had a 5 star Battery Check. 38302 less 23000 is 15302. I get 7500 back over three years. . How is this 95% of the original value. ???
15000 - 7500 = 7500, and if you take THAT off 38302, it is 30802. 23000/30802 is 74% if Im doing the math right....
 
gkalexdc said:
How is this 95% of the original value. ???
15000 - 7500 = 7500, and if you take THAT off 38302, it is 30802. 23000/30802 is 74% if Im doing the math right....
They are calculating this from MSRP, and not including TTL. Also, according to the report at least, your SL should have fetched more than $24K. Perhaps that explains the difference.
 
gkalexdc said:
... Heres the Math. I paid 38302 with TTL. ... How is this 95% of the original value. ???
15000 - 7500 = 7500, and if you take THAT off 38302, it is 30802. 23000/30802 is 74% if Im doing the math right....
You don't get to include TTL in your depreciation calculation. Also, to do this right, you need to look at what a retail buyer, not a dealer would pay for the used car.
 
What is the trade-in value if you only have 11 capacity bars showing? :eek: I wouldn't have expected to be asking this question this early in the life of a Leaf, but it is a reality for some of our forum members.
 
So they're including the one time $7500 tax credit to show 95% of the original value? :roll:

The Leaf, like most cars, depreciated significantly the first year.
 
Train said:
So they're including the one time $7500 tax credit to show 95% of the original value? :roll:

The Leaf, like most cars, depreciated significantly the first year.

That is stupid. What if you did not qualify or get the credit. A tax credit should not be calculated into the figures.
 
EVDRIVER said:
Train said:
So they're including the one time $7500 tax credit to show 95% of the original value? :roll:

The Leaf, like most cars, depreciated significantly the first year.

That is stupid. What if you did not qualify or get the credit. A tax credit should not be calculated into the figures.

Should Nissan change their advertising as well? John Voelcker wrote about that extensively on Green Car Reports. To be fair, the subsidized price sets a ceiling. If I'm selling my one-year old Leaf, prospective buyers will not want to pay more than what a new Leaf minus the $7.5K would cost them. See a recent thread for a sampling of that behavior. Those that don't qualify for the credit could do the lease buyout trick. It should be only marginally more expensive than an outright purchase.



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If the car is worth $35,000 then it's worth $35,000. The fact that a third party is willing to chip in $7500 only changes the cost, not the value. Don't include the tax credit in the depreciation math.
=Smidge=
 
Smidge204 said:
If the car is worth $35,000 then it's worth $35,000. The fact that a third party is willing to chip in $7500 only changes the cost, not the value. Don't include the tax credit in the depreciation math.
=Smidge=

Ok, we won't for your car, but it won't sell when we can just go to the dealership and get a new one for cheaper.
 
To me, this is comparing apples and guavas... You need to use prices EXCLUSIVE of federal or state rebates/incentives to get a fair comparison and picture of the market... Otherwise, you also need to subtract the rebates and incentives that accompany most ICE vehicles (we got $5K off when we bought our Acura, for example)... Including rebates and incentives makes it all meaningless.
 
TomT said:
To me, this is comparing apples and guavas... You need to use prices EXCLUSIVE of federal or state rebates/incentives to get a fair comparison and picture of the market... Otherwise, you also need to subtract the rebates and incentives that accompany most ICE vehicles (we got $5K off when we bought our Acura, for example)... Including rebates and incentives makes it all meaningless.

From earlier thread on same topic:

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=9001" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

="TomT" "To me, this is comparing apples and guavas... You need to use prices EXCLUSIVE of federal or state rebates/incentives to get a fair comparison... Otherwise, you also need to subtract the rebates and incentives that accompany most ICE vehicles (we got $5K off when we bought our Acura, for example)..."


edatoakrun: "Yes, the most accurate figures require actual out-of-pocket costs, including discounts from "list". Of course, these are much harder figures to come by, than the depreciation from list price.

But since many bought their LEAFs at greater discounts (?) from list than were available on Volts an Prius', I'd think the depreciation figures cited might even understate the LEAF advantage.

Residual values a few years from now, will give a much clearer view of TOC."

See this thread, for actual sales price reports:

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=8354" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

_________________
 
gkalexdc said:
I get 7500 back over three years.

How do you get back $7500 over three years? The $7500 FTC is a one shot deal;there's no rollover. If you believe you're going to get that over a three year period, you got taken on your deal.
 
ztanos said:
Smidge204 said:
If the car is worth $35,000 then it's worth $35,000. The fact that a third party is willing to chip in $7500 only changes the cost, not the value. Don't include the tax credit in the depreciation math.
=Smidge=
Ok, we won't for your car, but it won't sell when we can just go to the dealership and get a new one for cheaper.
Have fun explaining to your insurance company why your rates should be lower, because your car isn't actually worth its list price.
=Smidge=
 
TomT said:
To me, this is comparing apples and guavas... You need to use prices EXCLUSIVE of federal or state rebates/incentives to get a fair comparison and picture of the market... Otherwise, you also need to subtract the rebates and incentives that accompany most ICE vehicles (we got $5K off when we bought our Acura, for example)... Including rebates and incentives makes it all meaningless.

But that $5k isn't an everyday thing at the dealership. The $7500 is an everyday thing through the govt/dealership(if leasing). That would be the main difference here.
 
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