Options after 27,000 and getting range anxiety

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user 11773

Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2013
Messages
14
I have not followed discussions or announcements regarding our #800 Leaf (2011). Wife drives daily and we either: 1) buy higher mileage tires, 2) buy add on battery for trunk, 3) sell it, 4) contact Nissan about this, 5) ?. 64 miles round trip with combined street and freeway driving. No charger at work. Already going under the speed limit.
 
How many bars are still showing on your battery capacity gauge? Have you read the thread on the new Nissan battery capacity warranty? That's my only hope, but enduring another year of diminishing range is going to be tough.
 
You may want to see how much capacity you actually have left (capacity bars are rather crude) and be able to monitor how much energy remains in the battery (fuel bars are rather crude). Try Leaf Battery App (link in my signature) or LeafDD (search forum). Where are you located?
 
Thank you guys for your input. We live in San Luis Obispo, Central Coast of CA, it has all bars, no loss according to them, just had them upload new software to allow longer range, but didn't do much, no Android product or anything listed in the APP to check. I can only go by what they say, which is everything is fine.
 
Need a lot more data to make an informed response:
--what's your AHr reading (12 bars isn't enough)
--how fast is "under the speed limit" (if "under" is 65, that's too much)
--do you charge inside/outside (e.g. is it hot/cold at night)

If you just had the P3227 update, your bars could be WAY off. You said you are in CA; you might want to add that to your profile. Cold and speed are two of the worst range limiters.
 
Stanton is right - we'd need more info to offer much useful advice. Is it possible for you to attend a local LEAF enthusiasts meeting? Many LEAF drivers now have the app and bluetooth OBD-II adapter, and someone might be willing to plug theirs into your LEAF one time in order to gather the most important metrics, such as total AHr capacity and GIDs on a full charge.

What I can say is that, per your original post...

  • Higher-mileage tires - even with the best "low rolling resistance" tires, you'd be lucky to eke out more than 1-2 more miles per trip than you have today. If you typically run with tire pressures under 35 PSI, you'd probably get at least as much boost going to 40-44 PSI in your existing tires. The ride is almost the same, and personally, I like the handling better (less sidewall flex in turns).
  • Add in battery - not really an option. One company (Enginer, not to be confused with this forum's resident wizard, Ingineer), claimed such a thing, but I believe has since stopped selling units for LEAFs. I'm not sure they ever sold any, but someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

IMHO, your best options are:

  • Slow down even more. There can be a 5-7 mile range difference between driving 58 MPH and 63 MPH.
  • Look into options for charging at work, either using a 120v outlet or perhaps offering to cost-share for installation of a Level 2 EVSE.
  • Trade in your 2011 for a 2013 (or if possible wait a few months for the 2014s, with (hopefully) their better-in-the-heat battery).
  • Give up and go back to a plug-in hybrid, hybrid, or (shudder) ICE.

Oh, and BTW - using something like the LEAF Battery App, you'll see that even when you hit the "Low Battery Warning", you still have about 20% of your battery capacity left - typically enough for another 10 or so miles. So you're not as low as you might think.

Good luck on whatever option best suits you.
 
Buy this one and you will have the simplest plug-in device for the data desired. http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=15143&p=340554&hilit=LeafDD#unread" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; If it is sold, follow the link to buy one from the source. It works great for us, and the true GID data gives confidence to drive further than one might now. Where do you drive from SLO where max mileage is required? Are you familiar with the various sources of information on charger locations, or do you rely on the system in your Leaf?
 
There has been a long story since writing you guys, a few weeks ago, but basically, I am done with fighting Nissan. Do you think my car value is better with car#800 and it has 440v factory plug and other options?
 
It is posts like this that make me think BMW might be onto something with the Rex. With a a gas (shudder) backup people will be willing to use more of (or even the whole) battery. Of course, a really accurate capacity and/or range meter could help too.
 
RAV lease provides $16,500 credit toward capitalized cost. Money factor is essentially zero at about 0.00001 give or take a zero.
And Toyota miles are actually 5,280 feet vs maybe 3,500 for Nissan. 80% normal charge is rated over 100 miles. Real miles.
Better performance, more passenger space, more rear space for cargo.
 
I didn't understand the capitalization cost thing...I paid cash b4 to get incentives. Are you saying the $50k is reduced by the FTC and Ca rebate plus something else? I think I can get about $18k for our leaf.
 
smkettner said:
116 according to Tony Williams draft document.
http://www.myrav4ev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=251#p251

Can't say I have gone 116 at 65mph all in one swoop but the way it drives I think it will.
Take a few off for climate control and you are down to 100.
I can confirm it does appear to get 120 miles or more at 65-70 mph. I've done a few 100-ish mile trips from Santa Cruz over our mountains (1800 ft pass) to north of San Francisco (Fairfax, Richmond, etc) on freeways at 65-70 mph most of the way and had around 20 miles still showing for range. So nice compared to the LEAF's range! It's sweet! (Too bad no fast DC charge but 10kW is pretty good!)

And the standard charge range (80%) of about 100 miles means it's that much more rare to need to do the extended charge, unlike with my LEAF.
 
I saw a used fairly low miles Rav 4 EV for $30,000 on cars.com...if my Leaf didn't fit the bill for the foreseeable future, I'd consider getting it.

Plus I live in Texas, so where would I get it fixed? (Boo, Toyota.)

I will say as others have, 40 PSI in the tires made a nice easy diff. As much as .7 miles per kwhr increase, but let's say for my degraded 10/12 battery it's at least an extra 5 miles. (.3 miles per kwhr, I have about 17 capacity.) For my 80% highway at 65 set speed (63 GPS) and 20% at 30-40mph driving, I have been getting 4.5 miles avg. per kwhr in ECO mode, with slower acceleration and lots of coasting.

I will say if you wife drives like mine, the efficiency will be noticeably more horrible.
 
The RAV4 EV lease is currently a no brainier. Toyota must get them out there and the current lease is very very good. My 2013 Leaf is just about worthless otherwise I would be driving a RAV4 EV.

Now if you want to buy one outright then there is no deal. They are currently pushing leases for California residents.
 
In case any of you wondered...my wife drove the car until it had 4 miles left. Then I drove it out of town and it went from 4 to battery charge low and then 7 miles later dead. Got the tow service, which is covered under warranty. So, now I know, it has the stated amount, plus about 6-7 more.
 
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