jjeff said:
Not sure what wire he's talking about but a EVSE doesn't need a neutral, maybe he's thinking it does?
I guess what you proposing would work but personally I'd want to have a separate disconnect for both your AC unit and outlet for your EVSE or preferably a single one that would give power to either the outlet or your AC unit, not potentially both at the same time which would blow your breaker if running your AC and also charging.
Also not sure how kosher this setup would be with city inspectors or a licenced electrician but thats your call how you'd want to handle it. I don't think code even likes 240v extension cords and getting one 50' with the right ends is probably going to be extremely hard or expensive. I guess you could have one made out of 12 or better 10 gauge wire but it would have to be a custom job with the proper L6-30 ends that a EVSEupgrade unit uses. I've seen premade L14-30 extension cords for RVs but I had to make my L6-30 extension cord and even that is only 25 feet.
Note in this setup the maximum charge you could run your EVSE at would be 16a, if your Leaf goes more and your EVSE does also, you'd need to dial it down on the EVSE to more than 16a for that 20a breaker.
Lastly, 20a sounds like a rather small breaker for a AC unit but maybe it's a small AC unit? it sounds like it might draw only 8a running but not sure whats up with that 38.6 LRA, maybe it's potential starting current?......
I was certainly expecting a switch that would only enable the A/C or the outlet and exclude the other.
You say 20a sounds small, but there are TWO 20 amp breakers, so the unit is getting 40 amps. I don't know how that gets combined but I guess it handles the 38.6 LRA.
This is a licensed electrical contractor I work with, and the next step would be a service charge for a visiit. I'm just not eager to pay for the next step if I know it will require more wiring from the unit.
Would the "no need for a neutral" be clear to the electrician if I told him what outlet the EVSE needed (L6-20)?