Agree with LeftieBiker. My 2016 SV initially ramps up to around 3 kW on the electric resistance PTC heater. Heat starts coming out the vents within seconds and the blower takes about 30 seconds to ramp up from a cold start, presumably so you're not blasted with cold air at first.
Over the course of a few minutes it transitions entirely to the heat pump. Set to Auto at 72F cabin temp on a typical Seattle 52F day, the heat pump might draw 150W to 300W on an intermittent duty cycle.
If I activate defrost or force A/C on with Heat it will run the heat pump in cooling mode with PTC electric resistance heat simultaneously. If you like drying A/C and heat in a ICEV all the time, then the LEAF heat pump is of less value.
In my testing on a 50F night with the climate control set to 72F, maintaining cabin heat with just the heat pump took about 300 Watts. Using Heat + A/C increased average consumption to 1200 Watts. This was at night with the car parked. I used LeafSpy Pro to track energy use over a 10 minute window after allowing the system to stabilize.
A downside of the heat pump is when it switches from cooling to heating, it can turn into a very effective cabin humidifier until the cabin-side evaporator coils dry out. It can take several minutes to dry the system out. I've heard complaints that the LEAF heat pump makes the cabin feel stuffy, but I suspect that's just the temporary wet coils effect.