2012 Nissan leaf charging problem, new charger different problems

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Gtsrola

Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2019
Messages
7
I have a 2012 Nissan Leaf with 45000 miles on it. A month ago it stopped charging on all L1 and L2 EVSEs (Nothing worked on the J1772 but chademo works fine), when plugged in it, would light up like it was starting to charge then clunk and the charging lights would go off. I checked the diode like the Youtube video shows and it checked fine (different readings different directions). Found a used charger at a wrecking yard and installed it now L1 works and some L2s work (My dads L2 the Nissan dealers L2 works fine) I went to a Greenlots L2 and it never gave me an error but would not charge the car, my Jucebox Pro 40 beeps 2 times with a pause between (from Juceboxk 2 (short beeps, then break) Car not obeying J1772. (Or plugged into something that’s not an EV).)

I love my Leaf but I bought it because I wanted to have less maintence, I'm ready to give up and drive the ICE car that I never sold because I wasnt sure how an electric car would fit into our life. Please help me if you can !!!!!!
 
It seems as though you have eliminated the charger as the culprit so that leaves 'everything else'. Have you checked the J1772 connector at the front of the car for wear? If you don't have LeafSpy Pro or something similar I'd get that and try to read any trouble codes that the car may have logged. Not all trouble codes will trigger a warning light on the dash so there may be codes stored that will help diagnose the problem.
 
oh yeah I forgot to include those thank you. These are the only current codes with the previous charger it had the same codes and then some. B29c1 and p3173 I have leaf spy pro.
 
Those codes may have been left over from the old charger I just checked and I have no DTCs even while my EVSE is not working. I also forgot to mention that my dad's 2011 leaf charges fine on my EVSE. My j1772 connector does not look very worn however when I go to test it the pins do move around a little bit I'm not sure if they all do that.
 
Yes I checked the diode it is in the 150k range one way and the mega ohms rage the other which is what they say it should be. The proximity also has 4 volts like it's supposed to.
 
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It's fixed. The top board was the culprit on the new charger so something else on my old charger was broken. Everything works!!!
 
Nice! How did you determine the PCBA was bad? Was there visible damage or did it just start working when you swapped out parts or ??
 
There was a few diodes that looked like the solder around them might have either been to hot or they didnt clean the flux off the board when it was made either way I figured I didnt have anything to loose by swapping them out.
 
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