2018 Leaf Level 1&2 Charging cancels after 2 minute on any charger

[SLO2018Leaf]

Our 2018 Nissan Leaf with the 40kwh battery just a couple weeks ago would initiate the charging beeps and blinking lights indicting it would start charging and as soon as you walk away from the vehicle for approx 2 minutes, the car beeps and cancels the charging. Taking the car to a Level 3 Chademo charger(of which their are only 3 such chargers within 25 miles of our home) and the car will charge. Taking the car the dealership resulting in us being told we need to replace the PDM and some misc components to the tune of $6,000.00. The car has 80k miles on it and the dealer is telling me the warrantee expired at 60k.

Thought initially it might be tied to the regular 12v battery needing to be replaced, so replaced the 12v battery with a new one but still had the same issue charging. Confirmed also that the delay timer is off, and have tried to charge at multiple Chargepoint pubic chargers as well as at home.

I purchased an OBD and Leaf Spy to see if I could clear the error codes and possible get the car to complete a charge on Level 1 or 2, but my several attempts at clearing the following codes have not allowed the car to charge via the J1772 port.

This is after clearing the DTC's and attempting to charge the car via J1772 port and the car cancels after 2 minutes.


This is after clearing the codes and before plugging in to charge via J1772 port.

Below is the error report provided to me by the dealer:


Hoping that someone might have had a similar experience or is savvy enough to know where I could find further manual or repair or diagnostic reference to any of the noted error codes in the above reports? Thanks in advance for the assistance.
Michael

 

[nlspace]

Did you charge the new battery before installation? What is the battery voltage reading by leafspy or using a voltmeter, when the car is OFF and when ON or in READY?

The U-codes are CAN buss communication errors, and these are typically found to result from either damaged wiring, corroded connectors, or a weak or depleted 12V battery.

 

[SLO2018Leaf]

Did you charge the new battery before installation? What is the battery voltage reading by leafspy or using a voltmeter, when the car is OFF and when ON or in READY?

The U-codes are CAN buss communication errors, and these are typically found to result from either damaged wiring, corroded connectors, or a weak or depleted 12V battery.

Great point, I will check it when I'm back around the car. I'm sure it could use some sanding and re-tightening and likely a coating of a battery clamp sealer, as I changed it out in the Autozone parking lot quick like so I could get back home to see if the charge would keep. Thanks for the suggestion.

Might you know of a resource regarding the DTS codes and the typical diagnostic procedure's for those codes or my year Leaf?

 

[SLO2018Leaf]

Did you charge the new battery before installation? What is the battery voltage reading by leafspy or using a voltmeter, when the car is OFF and when ON or in READY?

The U-codes are CAN buss communication errors, and these are typically found to result from either damaged wiring, corroded connectors, or a weak or depleted 12V battery.

Ok, back in Cali and disconnected the new 12v battery, cleaned the posts and the cable clamp connectors and reclamped to the terminals and am still pulling the same DTS codes: P3177-86-08 ECU Activation Err EVC-242 ; U1A02-00 0B TCU Tel Communication Module AV-195 ; and then U1A01-00 0B Internal Error (TCU) AV-195.

If I clear the DTS codes with LeafSky, the P3177 code drops off the list and leave just the two other U1 codes. On a short trip and before turning off the car and trying a Level 1 charger the P code will stay gone, but if I turn off the car, and then back on again, the P code will re-appear.

The dealer print out of the codes shows the two U1 codes and not the P3177 code or what would seem to be the PDM code (Part Number 292C0-5SA1A) which is what they claim needs to be replaced for a total of $6k:



I'm beginning to suspect maybe the TCU unit needs to be replaced and not the PDM based on the dealer and Leafspy showing the two similar U1 codes related to the TCU? Does this seem like a logical next step and is there a way to test the TCU or should I just replace it (Part appears to be about $500 from the dealership). It would appear that the replacement of this is pretty straight forward with demounting the part and removing some wiring harnesses and re-installing.

I did locate diagnostic manual at AllData site : https://www.alldata.com/diy-us/en and it shows the replacement procedure. Oddly, they don't provide the replacement procedure for the PDM replacement.

Any and all recommendations or other repair manuals or videos would be appreciated. Thanks nlspace and other!

 

[MikeinPA]

Track that P3177-86-08 ECU code down first. If you need to purchase the actual manual, do that. Carefully read all of the details. The manual is topologically challenging, but stay with it. Nissan's documentation is very good, and it is highly likely you will see a possible explanation. Then google the heck out of that explanation for similar cases out there. Could just be the diode issue.

 

[nlspace]

Do you have a voltmeter? If not then it's time to get one and learn how to use it.

You didn't answer my previously requested questions about the battery voltage; even brand "new" batteries off the shelf need to be charged with an external 12V charger before put into service. There are hundreds of posts on this forum from guys with your problems that was due to a weak or discharged battery. A weak battery can cause a multitude of false DTCs, the forum is full of reports of this.

The first step in the diagnostic manual for nearly every DTC is to measure the voltage of the battery.

 

[Stanton]

Could just be the diode issue.

This what came to mind as soon as you said "L3 charging only".
Separately, the TCU can be dis-connected (or even just pull the fuse) if you think that's a problem...although I've never seen a TCU tied to an inability to charge (and I have replaced my own TCU with OVMS).
I suspect you will get a million suggestions here, but I would start with a diode check (you can search the forum for relevant threads).

 

[cornbinder89]

Track that P3177-86-08 ECU code down first. If you need to purchase the actual manual, do that. Carefully read all of the details. The manual is topologically challenging, but stay with it. Nissan's documentation is very good, and it is highly likely you will see a possible explanation. Then google the heck out of that explanation for similar cases out there. Could just be the diode issue.

I agree with this and with checking the battery voltage. The telacom error I don't think would give you the problems you are seeing. Esp as others have replaced with a universal unit and not caused any "no charge" problems while doing so or setting it up.
Replace parts because you "think it may be the problem" gets real expensive when talking about PDM, DC-DC modules etc.
You can try using the 2015 manual which is the newest you can download for free from the NICO site, if that doesn't help you may have to purchase access to the correct manual. Much of the stuff hasn't changed from model year to model year.
The manual can be intimidating esp when you have to jump around between sections to get the info you need, but it is the only way to get to the bottom of things without guess, fail, guess again etc. with $1000+ parts.
I would also look at those that have written up adding a diode in the charge circuit. It isn't a 100% fix, but it is cheap enough that you could try. I wouldn't go though making the permanent install until I knew that was the problem and it fixed it. Diodes can fail open or closed (shorted) the "diode fix" only works on diodes that failed shorted, and then only if the diode was the problem to begin with.

 

[cornbinder89]

Both the 1A02 and 1A01 codes say check the harness plug to the tel-com module, if not bad replace module, so I don't see how they can be involved. This is from 2015 manual not 2018.
The other is most definitely involved with charging (P3177) and there are a bunch of logic trees to follow.
One thing, if you are charging from the OEM Evse "trickle charger" does the red fault light come on when it stops charging? This is one of the diagnostic clues to look for.

 

[SLO2018Leaf]

Do you have a voltmeter? If not then it's time to get one and learn how to use it.

You didn't answer my previously requested questions about the battery voltage; even brand "new" batteries off the shelf need to be charged with an external 12V charger before put into service. There are hundreds of posts on this forum from guys with your problems that was due to a weak or discharged battery. A weak battery can cause a multitude of false DTCs, the forum is full of reports of this.

The first step in the diagnostic manual for nearly every DTC is to measure the voltage of the battery.

I have a Fluke meter that is more of a construction meter that I used for my GenContracting business and it would just show the rounded number directly testing the battery under the hood at 12v and doesn't show tenth's or hundredths place, so don't know if thats 11.6v or 12.4 volts. On LeafSpy it shows the 12v battery at 14.45v at start up and after sitting for a bit, it's down now to 13.04v. I was still going to take it back to Autozone and have them test the battery as well.

Oddly, this morning after not having running or clearing the codes for about 2 days as my wife was using the car and charging 2-3times at DC fast chargers, the P3177 code is not coming up, just the two U codes, lol.

Two other older items of note with the car: the interior bluetooth microphone for hands free driving will not longer connect, ie the person on the other end of the line can't hear me yet I can hear them through the car speakers. We've had probably 3 incidents of the car needing to be jump started. It's fortunately happened while at home and it's been random when it has happened(ie, months or a year or more between incidents and when I took the car to the parts place, the 12v battery checked out fine. Lastly, the seatbelt warning light stays lite on the dash and has been that way for 2-3 years.

More diagnostic work and more comments below to follow, thanks for the advice and tips, much appreciated!

 

[Chad E. Mo]

Since I haven't seen it mentioned...

Were the timer settings checked/reset?

I've seen some wonky timer behavior in my 2020: Looks like it's charging, I come back later and it's not... It can be charging, but if I open the passenger door, it stops... stuff like that.

 

[SLO2018Leaf]

Track that P3177-86-08 ECU code down first. If you need to purchase the actual manual, do that. Carefully read all of the details. The manual is topologically challenging, but stay with it. Nissan's documentation is very good, and it is highly likely you will see a possible explanation. Then google the heck out of that explanation for similar cases out there. Could just be the diode issue.

Thank you, and yes been trying to find a manual for my model year, and seem to only find earlier model years or First Gen Leafs noting the same or similar code. Currently reading the 2012 manual to see if I can follow the diagnostic steps from that manual. I had thought that the AllData manual would show me the same diagnostic procedures, but it doesn't provide clear reference procedures, see images below:




More research and diagnostic work to come as today is my day to work on this and likely over the weekend. Thanks again for the feedback!

 

[SLO2018Leaf]

This what came to mind as soon as you said "L3 charging only".
Separately, the TCU can be dis-connected (or even just pull the fuse) if you think that's a problem...although I've never seen a TCU tied to an inability to charge (and I have replaced my own TCU with OVMS).
I suspect you will get a million suggestions here, but I would start with a diode check (you can search the forum for relevant threads).

I have watched some PDM teardown videos(again seem to be First Gen Leaf model's pre 2018) that note the diode issue, technically that might be outside my knowledge level unless I had a clear step by step procedure. Again, more research and information gathering. Thank you for the one in a million suggestion!

 

[SLO2018Leaf]

Since I haven't seen it mentioned...

Were the timer settings checked/reset?

I've seen some wonky timer behavior in my 2020: Looks like it's charging, I come back later and it's not... It can be charging, but if I open the passenger door, it stops... stuff like that.

Interesting, we had that issue pop up a time or two for us at a public charger away from the home and at home. This was a couple years ago and it was frustrating my wife, so I turn the timers off and cleared them. When this charging issue popped up 4 weeks ago, I check again and the timers all showed they were off. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[abergman87]

Our 2018 Nissan Leaf with the 40kwh battery just a couple weeks ago would initiate the charging beeps and blinking lights indicting it would start charging and as soon as you walk away from the vehicle for approx 2 minutes, the car beeps and cancels the charging. Taking the car to a Level 3 Chademo charger(of which their are only 3 such chargers within 25 miles of our home) and the car will charge. Taking the car the dealership resulting in us being told we need to replace the PDM and some misc components to the tune of $6,000.00. The car has 80k miles on it and the dealer is telling me the warrantee expired at 60k.

Thought initially it might be tied to the regular 12v battery needing to be replaced, so replaced the 12v battery with a new one but still had the same issue charging. Confirmed also that the delay timer is off, and have tried to charge at multiple Chargepoint pubic chargers as well as at home.

I purchased an OBD and Leaf Spy to see if I could clear the error codes and possible get the car to complete a charge on Level 1 or 2, but my several attempts at clearing the following codes have not allowed the car to charge via the J1772 port.
View attachment 3275
This is after clearing the DTC's and attempting to charge the car via J1772 port and the car cancels after 2 minutes.

View attachment 3277
This is after clearing the codes and before plugging in to charge via J1772 port.

Below is the error report provided to me by the dealer:
View attachment 3276

Hoping that someone might have had a similar experience or is savvy enough to know where I could find further manual or repair or diagnostic reference to any of the noted error codes in the above reports? Thanks in advance for the assistance.
Michael

Sir, were you able to develop a conclusion to this issue?

My wife has a identical issue on her 2019 and I’m in the researching process

 

[MikeinPA]

I assumed that since it was charging L3 and not L2 that the 12 volt battery is not an issue. Get a charger and a better resolution voltmeter and make sure that battery is at 12.7 ish or above, as NLspace said.

You can probably download the manual here: https://www.nissan-techinfo.com/find.aspx The 2013 and 2014 manuals are freely available on the web, and that "check DTC priority" is the same in the 2013 manual (page EVC-268). You will need to really read that manual closely, especially page EVC-242 of the 2018 manual. I have successfully repaired three EV system issues on the car already, and ever time the information to diagnose was in the manual--just really hard to follow their logic tree. Do not assume a Nissan dealership mechanic will have a clue about diagnosing this problem. While going through the service manual, you will see a lot of things to check. This could just be an intermittent connection somewhere in the charger wiring harness or associated systems (like the cooling pump) that needs to be located. In general, what shape is the engine bay in? Lots of corrosion?

 

[cornbinder89]

I assumed that since it was charging L3 and not L2 that the 12 volt battery is not an issue. Get a charger and a better resolution voltmeter and make sure that battery is at 12.7 ish or above, as NLspace said.

You can probably download the manual here: https://www.nissan-techinfo.com/find.aspx The 2013 and 2014 manuals are freely available on the web, and that "check DTC priority" is the same in the 2013 manual (page EVC-268). You will need to really read that manual closely. I have successfully repaired three HV issue on the car already, and ever time the information to diagnose was in the manual--just really hard to follow their logic tree. Do not assume a Nissan dealership mechanic will have a clue about diagnosing this problem. While going through the service manual, you will see a lot of things to check. This could just be an intermittent connection somewhere is the charger or the cooling pump that needs to be located.l

2015 manuals are also available free.

 

[SLO2018Leaf]

Sir, were you able to develop a conclusion to this issue?

My wife has a identical issue on her 2019 and I’m in the researching process

Still working on the issue, no resolution yet other than dealership is allowing us to use there Chademo charger so now we have 4 spots to charge within 25 miles of us. Keep me posted on your process and follow along with the comments here, there are definitely some knowledgeable members in this forum.

 

[cornbinder89]

I have watched some PDM teardown videos(again seem to be First Gen Leaf model's pre 2018) that note the diode issue, technically that might be outside my knowledge level unless I had a clear step by step procedure. Again, more research and information gathering. Thank you for the one in a million suggestion!

I followed your other post on the same subject. If the diode "try" is outside your comfort zone, I would suggest looking for an independent shop that specializes in EV's to diagnose further. You don't say what part of the world you are in so it is hard to know who might be near and able to look at it.

 

[SLO2018Leaf]

So my wife and I share the car for work and errands so finally had a chance yesterday to clear all the codes and plug it into our Level 1 OEM home charger (still goes 2-3 minutes with blue lights blinking then shuts off) and got a new batch of codes, some new ones related to brakes, abs, ADAS, front camera,TCU, multi-AV, & EV/HEV. Here's the latest Leaf Spy DTS list: