surfingslovak
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- Jun 13, 2011
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Here what was likely of the hottest days last year. Not sure how that jives with your experience.
Right, I would try to keep it around the middle of the battery gauge then. When in doubt, lower charge is better than higher charge in hot environments. I would not let the car sit with one bar or less for more than a few hours if I can help it.EdmondLeaf said:I am not able to do much about battery temp, but can try to keep SOC optimal. What will be better for the battery at high temp say 90 -100F. I am back home with 2 bars, charge to 50% and next morning to 80% or keep battery at 2 bars till charging late night early morning. I am assuming 50% is sweet spot.
Volusiano said:]Mine is a 4-car garage attached to the house on 1 side (back side) with the garage doors facing north. I have only 2 cars are parked inside, 1 ICE & the Leaf, the other 2 spots are filled with storage stuff. The ICE car was used by my wife for work last summer so it does contribute some heat to the garage when it gets home in the evening, but since last fall until now, it's been much less used since my wife quit that job.
I don't think it benefits from the adjacent air conditioning that much, but at least there's very little evening sun exposure on all 4 sides. I actually have ample attic space above the garage and I cut out 2 1x1 foot square holes on the garage ceiling to allow hot air to escape into the attic out the roof vents. I'd say my garage is probably about 10-15 degrees cooler than the outside during the day.
This brings up the question of how soon to charge back to 50% from, say, 25%. My Leaf sits in the sun 4 days a week for about 10 hours in the San Fernando Valley (Los Angeles). In the summer, I go up to 6 bars on the temperature gauge by 11:00 AM or noon. When I get home from work at 7:00 PM, I still have 6 bars on the temperature gauge. I understand it is better to let the battery cool some before recharging, but don't know the optimal time to wait--an hour, 2 hours 3 hours? At home the temperature is about 25 degrees cooler than the Valley on a typical hot summer day, so I get substantial cooling after some (unknown) period of time at home. Thoughts?surfingslovak said:Right, I would try to keep it around the middle of the battery gauge then. When in doubt, lower charge is better than higher charge in hot environments. I would not let the car sit with one bar or less for more than a few hours if I can help it.
Hm, interesting, thanks for that! We noticed in early September last year, that there might be some correlation between a hot pack and a lower Gid reading. If this were true, it might explain the speed of the decline, and the sudden capacity drop in the group of affected vehicles. TickTock is apparently getting about 30 Gids less on a 100% charge than in February.turbo2ltr said:When I pulled into the garage at 6:30 after driving around the neighborhood for 40 minutes, the dash said 101 deg. I had 7 bars on the temp gauge...which I was a bit surprised at since the car was in the shop all morning. But it was outside all afternoon. I was inside most of the day, guess it was hotter than I though out.
Aside from a cooler parking spot, there is not much more you can do. It can't get more conservative than this. If you wanted to see an appreciable difference in battery temperature, I would give it a few hours if possible. I'm basing this on my experience with the ActiveE, which has a battery temperature indicator on the center console. Perhaps Phil can comment, since the LEAFSCAN has the data you are looking for.Stoaty said:This brings up the question of how soon to charge back to 50% from, say, 25%. My Leaf sits in the sun 4 days a week for about 10 hours in the San Fernando Valley (Los Angeles). In the summer, I go up to 6 bars on the temperature gauge by 11:00 AM or noon. When I get home from work at 7:00 PM, I still have 6 bars on the temperature gauge. I understand it is better to let the battery cool some before recharging, but don't know the optimal time to wait--an hour, 2 hours 3 hours? At home the temperature is about 25 degrees cooler than the Valley on a typical hot summer day, so I get substantial cooling after some (unknown) period of time at home. Thoughts?
EdmondLeaf said:Thank you for your advice. It is 7 h of rest and temp drop from 87 to 64 but still 6 temp bars. I believe temp gauge is not very accurate. Concerning charging I really do not like to charge twice, once from 2 bars to 6 and than to 10 but looks like that will be the best summer and not only summer battery protection program.
Exactly, therefore it looks like allowing car to stay with 2 bars for say 10 h should be acceptable because 2 bars is between 25 -30% SOC if I am correctGaslessInSeattle said:Don't forget that true 50% is more like 5 bars.
TaylorSFGuy said:Thanks to FairwoodRed for letting me borrow his GID meter. Over the last few days, my LEAF had readings varied between 272 and 280 at 100% charge. I appreciate his offer and takes some of the guesswork out of the equation.
Will also be interesting to see what voltage your pack reads, too. Also, are you able to record time to charge and kWh used to charge? Is it also worth charging to 80% first, recording data and then charging the rest of the way and recording that data, too? (GIDs, voltage, time to charge, energy to charge)turbo2ltr said:Not sure if anyone already posted this but I just ran my car down to turtle.
Bar 3 went away at 41 GID
Bar 2 at 28
Bar 1 at 10
Compared to 54, 33, and 11 when the car was new.
LBW, VLBW and turtle all occurred at the normal points.
I am curious to see what 100% gets me tomorrow.
FWIW - storage at 25-30% shouldn't be an issue - at least Toyota recommends that you store the PiP with the battery "empty" which is around that SOC, IIRC.EdmondLeaf said:Exactly, therefore it looks like allowing car to stay with 2 bars for say 10 h should be acceptable because 2 bars is between 25 -30% SOC if I am correctGaslessInSeattle said:Don't forget that true 50% is more like 5 bars.
In Kent, WashingtonEdmondLeaf said:It appears that high temp maybe responsible for AZ faster than expected capacity loss. After driving I think now more than 38KM TaylorSFGuy have new battery GID number.
drees said:FWIW - storage at 25-30% shouldn't be an issue - at least Toyota recommends that you store the PiP with the battery "empty" which is around that SOC, IIRC.EdmondLeaf said:Exactly, therefore it looks like allowing car to stay with 2 bars for say 10 h should be acceptable because 2 bars is between 25 -30% SOC if I am correctGaslessInSeattle said:Don't forget that true 50% is more like 5 bars.
Ingineer said:Yes, when you set an 80% charge, it actually stops at 80% True SoC (Battery ECU's Reported SoC). When I do a charge to 100%, the numbers usually are 94%-95% SoC, with low SoC numbers also having lower Gids. (Keep in mind a Gid is 80 watt-hours)vegastar said:I just bring this up because the 231 gids I get at 80% charge are not 80% of 281 gids, but 82,2%. And I remember Engineer (I think) saying that the 80% charge is the true 80% capacity of the battery unlike the 100% charge that is below the true 100% charge. As the 80% charge gid value is much more stable (I ALWAYS get 231 gids) it could be a better value to evaluate battery capacity.
So really the difference between "80%" and "100%" is actually only at most 15% not the 20% you'd expect.
Another good reason to only charge to 80% unless you need the "full" 94-95%. (You'd only be gaining at most 15%!)
-Phil
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