WHAT THE HECK IS A MODULE?
The battery contains 288 cells, split into 10 modules in 5 serviceable pairs called rows. GM's PR team is referring to the row as a module, so from their communications there are 5 modules in a Bolt battery. Using their parlance, four modules have 60 cells, and the fifth module (on top under the rear seat) has 48 cells.
WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN REPLACING ALL MODULES AND REPLACING THE BATTERY?
The battery contains a lot of electronics, wiring, relays, the battery computer, and the battery shell (which is a very strong structural member of the car). There are no problems with these components, so they do not need to be replaced. The net result is that you will have the core components of your battery - the actual cells - brand new. That's the important part.
WHY AREN'T THEY JUST REPLACING ALL BATTERIES?
For speed and cost. It's cheaper and way easier to ship modules, and the division of labor will allow quicker turnaround times by just replacing the modules in the field.
WHAT ARE THE DETAILS ON THE PROBLEM?
GM has found the manufacturing processes that can cause a torn anode (battery tab) and folded separators present in all LG lines that produced Bolt cells, in both South Korea and both plants in the United States. As a result all Bolts are potentially at risk. More details on this tomorrow.
HOW WILL GM ENSURE THAT THE NEW CELLS ARE SAFE?
They will be able to, I've spoken to them, more on this tomorrow.
HOW LONG WILL THIS TAKE?
We don't know exactly yet, but more on this tomorrow.
WHICH DEALERS WILL BE ABLE TO HANDLE THIS?
The module replacement is a relatively straight forward thing, and there are enough checks within the car and the process that it is safe for any EV certified technician to do. Any dealer that sells the Bolt must have at least one EV certified technician on staff. It's significantly easier than replacing an engine, for example. If you do not know which dealers have an EV certified technician you can call the concierge (see below).
WHAT CAN I DO TO REDUCE MY RISK?
If you can: reduce your charging limit to 90% (or hilltop reserve on 2017-2018), and do not run below about 30% state of charge. If you can't do this, then either get as close as you can or ask GM to provide a free loaner or rental (see below). Park outside away from anything flammable or that could be damaged by massive amounts of water.
Either way - use departure mode charging to only charge up before you leave. Do not leave the vehicle charging unattended. Avoid deep discharging - plug in as soon as you can. You can use OBD2 to check for cell voltages or to dive deep into your car's data if you want low level information. - https://allev.info/boltpids/
You could also get a wireless interconnected smoke alarm that ties in with your house alarm, and put it in the rear seat of your Bolt. This may give you a few minutes extra notice.
You can also get a "J1772 extension" cable to give you more length to charge outdoors. Just search in Google or Amazon for that term.
WHAT IF I CAN'T DO FOLLOW THOSE RECOMMENDATIONS?
Do as much as you can. It will not impact your ability to have warranty or get your battery modules replaced. If you don't accept the risk, GM will provide you with a loaner or rental. See below.
SHOULD I CHARGE AT L1 OR DCFC OR REDUCED CURRENT?
No - the safest charging is Level 2 32A. This is closest to the "sweet spot" of charging speed for lithium ion. Slower than that or DCFC is less ideal. If these are your only choice, then you can use them.
WHAT DO I NEED TO DO NOW?
