cwerdna said:
GRA said:
^^^ Thanks, I thought I might have asked this before, but couldn't remember if it was for the Bolt or some other BEV.
An interim report: I'm in the Lee Vining Library, using an actual keyboard on a computer for the first time since March 14! It's so much easier than a phone. Anyway, picked up the new 2020 Bolt LT from the owner yesterday, which had a grand total of 54 miles on the odometer. Is there a tripmeter? I couldn't find one.
That is crazy that you don't have an actual keyboard and computer. I find typing anything of length on phones and tablets intolerable. You may consider seeing if a Bluetooth keyboard can work w/your phone. I've used Apple BT keyboards w/iPads for testing before. I test iOS software for a living. On virtually every vacation, I would still bring a laptop as phone and/or tablet is seriously not sufficient for me.
My personal phone is an iPhone 8 bought around Black Friday 2017 but I carry a Pixel 3 for work + usually 1 more iPhone test device (currently an iPhone 11). I have phones (as test devices for work) of all sorts ranging from low end to high (as high as iPhone 11 Pro Max, which starts at $1099).
You should seriously buy a computer w/a real keyboard, even it's a just a cheap Windows machine, Chromebook or Chromebox. If you get a Chromebook/box, make sure it doesn't hit end of update (end of security updates too soon) via https://support.google.com/chrome/a/answer/6220366?hl=en.
I'm back, sooner than later. While i was typing my previous post the wind shifted and smoked up here and Lee vining Canyon almost up to Tioga Pass. I drove up there just to check, but I'm not going hiking in that crap, so decided to hang in the library.
As for having a personal computer, I have in the past (got my first about '88), but when my last laptop died (an Alienware) and I had to go a couple of days before replacing it, I realized just how much time I was spending at home on it by myself, gaming etc.. Since my increasing deafness limited my social activities I really didn't need to be spending any more time isolated, so decided not to replace the computer and dropped my internet service, Instead, I use public library computers, which not only force me to have at least some minimal interaction with other people (away from work), but also limit the time I can spend on them, and I have to walk about .4 miles each way to use them. Much healthier all around, although the last 7 months being dependent on a phone for internet access has tested my resolve not to get a computer/home internet again. However, Alameda County got the okay to re-open libraries Oct. 9th, and while neither of the two closest to me have done so yet it should happen soon, and I can go back to just using my phone for the occasional text. As it is I limit my data use (I currently have a 1 year pre-paid plan that comes with 1.5 Gb, and I make that last me the year as another means of forcing me to not retreat into complete solitude. I make almost zero phone calls and only upgraded to a smart phone last year from my 2007 flip phone (not even a camera) because texting on it was easier, and even then I'll never approach my annual limit (1,000?).
cwerdna said:
Yes, there's unfortunately only a single trip odo. You use the arrow keys on the steering wheel to go to the screen w/miles per kWh and reset that screen. That unfortunately resets both the single trip odo and miles per kWh there. This is unlike gen 1 Leaf that has 3 trip odos and for those w/nav two miles/kWh displays that don't get reset when you reest trip odo.
Thanks. Figured this out myself while I was up at Tioga Pass. Didn't have time to mess with this yesterday as I was concentrating on just driving the car, and didn't want to play with the buttons on the steering wheel (other than the CC ones, which were pretty standard).
cwerdna said:
I can't speak to your cable relocked issues. I've never hit that. I don't know of any emergency release off the top of my head. If you power up the car and go to the energy screens, you should be able to stop the DC FC session from there too. Normally, if I somehow ran into that situation, I'd look for an emergency stop/release on the station. Last resort is to call the charging provider.
The session had stopped when it reached 100%. I tried using the "Stop charge" 'button' several times, but no effect. Tried the various help/info buttons on the screen, none of which were related or, if they were, didn't work.
cwerdna said:
Perhaps it wasn't locked and there was enough friction from the weight of the cable and handle to make you think it was locked? I can't say I'm a huge fan of CCS.
Nah, I lifted it up to make sure there was no extra weight on it, tried removing it with and without pressing the button, clicked my heels together three times while chanting the 900 Billion Names of God, and nothing. Would have tried sacrificing a virgin too, if one were available.
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cwerdna said:
As for L abruptly stopping, I modulate the go pedal while coming to a stop in L.
Right. I want to glide and then smoothly brake if necessary, rather than do that. My ideal would be multi-level regen on paddles, plus blended regen/friction on the brake pedal.
cwerdna said:
I can't type at length until later today/this evening but as for radio, you can just press the volume knob (power button) to mute it (also, phone hangup button on steering wheel). If you press and hold volume knob, that puts it into low power mode. Some people say they don't like the stereo turning when they power up. I hear the workaround is to go to SiriusXM channel 0. I don't do that/don't have an issue w/the behavior so I don't care.
I agree the infotainment system is a bit wonky and not much like how I'm used to on Toyotas and Nissans.
Had already figured out the mute bit and low power mode, it just seems insane to me that I can't simply turn the frickin' radio completely off while keeping the other display that I want on, or that it should automatically come on. It's just a waste of power, as I don't listen to music any more. I can't recognize stuff I've known my whole life, or if I do it sounds all wrong.
cwerdna said:
The rear headrests can be titled 90 degrees (via a round button on the side of the restraint) so that they don't block as much view. You can raise/lower them via a button on the seat next to where one of the tines enters. I have no problem w/them obstructing view but you could also just fold down the rear seats.
Thanks, I'll try that. They're not too bad for rear vis, but it would be nice to compare. Even with them the Bolt's still worlds better than an Ionic, although you had a Prius with the split window so maybe you wouldn't mind it so much.
cwerdna said:
High/low beam on Bolt is likely a mechanical shutter to obstruct or not obstruct a certain portion of the beam. This is common on HID headlight systems that don't have separate bulbs for high beam. My gen 2 Prius was this way. I've had other cars w/HIDs where the high beams were separate halogen bulbs, as well.
The auto high beam on/off aka Intellibeam in GM parlance is also new to me. I don't use it most of the time.
Ah ha,
that probably explains the pattern difference I noticed; I've never used common bulb HiD lights before. The pattern was much better on the Bolt than on my Forester or similar era cars. With the Forester, switching to high beam moves the pattern up and left, and going back to low beam does the opposite. With the Bolt, the low beam pattern stays the same, and the high beam is another layer left and up on top of it, so both left and right corners remain illuminated the same with the high beams on. Much better for winding roads, as you don't need to be constantly switching back and forth from high beam (left corners) to low (right corners).
cwerdna said:
I can't speak to your EA billing issues. On my very 1st EA charge, I joined Pass+ but it EA using the wrong rate (Pass) despite me starting the session via phone. I called EA to confirm I was on Pass+ (I was). They remotely starting charging for me but it didn't help. In the end, I was billed the wrong rate but they said they'd later refund the diff. They didn't and I pinged them again. Eventually, they just refunded that entire charge, which I was happy with.
Personally, I would avoid using credit cards unless it's a total last resort. My usual way of starting charging on ChargePoint is either their RFID card (I have 3) or my Apple Watch (easy). For EA, it's their app. For EVgo, I've never paid for a charge w/them yet, only used free charging at https://drivethearc.com/#sec-locations which MUST be started via the DrivetheARC app.
I do also have RFID cards from EVgo, SemaConnect and Blink but have never used them yet.
The CC
was the last resort at EA. As mentioned, calling CS isn't an option for me. I concur that my CP card worked well (linked to a CC for adding credit to the account), but maybe I was just lucky. As for EA, they need to fix the rate I paid and not charge me for waiting time. I need to email them and explain all this, once I get home, and then cancel the account as I don't need it.
While I'm on a computer here, I'm going to look at the Bolt manual and figure out for certain how to avoid Auto Climate Control. [
Edit]; Okay, looks like I had it figured right.