D or B mode with full battery? B mode general questions.

[tkdbrusco]

I'm a new leaf owner and starting to get the hang of a few tricks of the trade. As I'm sure most of you have noticed, 100%-90% charge goes pretty quickly. I'm guessing that this is because it doesn't allow you to regen much back into the full battery. I tend to drive almost all of the time in B/Eco, but am not sure if B mode is always the best thing to use. So here are a few of my questions.

(1) How much regen is happening between 100-90% if any at all. The gauge shows that its happening, but I'm not sure if it actually is. At this point of battery capacity, would I be better of in D mode and just coasting further.

(2) Under what circumstances should B mode be avoided? Has anyways done some testing between the two modes?

Thanks

 

[NeilBlanchard]

Between ~97% and 99% the software only allows a little bit of regen, and at 100%, regen doesn't work at all. Because as you say, it has nowhere to go.

I have found that B mode is great when you need to slow down, but for general use, I use D (with a light foot) and I use Eco mode for when the speed limit is 35MPH or below (though if it is a steep hill, you will probably want it in D).

I shift into N (hold for ~2s) for coasting - to take advantage of the "road candy" like long down hills or to slow just a bit to wait for a light to change ahead of you. On down hills, obviously if you get going too fast, then use D or B to get the regen, but I have found that coasting is better because you use less energy to begin with, and make better use of it.

 

[dgpcolorado]

As Neil says, coasting is more efficient than regen if it is safe to do so. At near 100% SOC with little or no regen, planning ahead for slowing and coasting is really the only efficient option since the other alternative is friction brakes with zero efficiency. But regen is a lot less efficient than coasting (except at very high speeds near terminal velocity).

According to another of your posts, you have an S model (it would be helpful if you would post your location and year/model in your signature). The SV and SL models come with an energy screen that will tell you how much regen (in kW) you are getting at any time. In the S model you would need an aftermarket meter of some sort to get that information.

 

[Nubo]

(1) How much regen is happening between 100-90% if any at all. The gauge shows that its happening, but I'm not sure if it actually is.

It's happening, as per the display. Look at the regen "bubbles" outline. A single outline means that level of regen is not available. A double outline means it's available". This is dependent on temperature, state of charge and battery condition. As you burn off some charge, the 2nd, 3rd, 4th bubbles will become available. You should be able to tell by direct experience if regen is happening -- the car will slow down more than if in Neutral.

At this point of battery capacity, would I be better of in D mode and just coasting further.

All else being equal coasting is more efficient. It translates the energy directly into motion. Regen does not recapture 100%. From most to least efficient:

Coasting > Regen > Brakes

By using the "energy info display" you can approximate coasting fairly well with the accelerator pedal, without shifting into neutral.

 

[dgpcolorado]

By using the "energy info display" you can approximate coasting fairly well with the accelerator pedal, without shifting into neutral.

Unless you are talking about the "bubbles" — a very crude and imprecise guide to energy in/out — there is no "energy info display" on the S model.

 

[tkdbrusco]

Thanks everyone. Exactly the info I was looking for. I tried to shift into neutral before and just coast but it wasn't working. I guess I wasn't aware of the 2 second rule. Yeah I went with the S model because the 2015's come a bit more equip than prior years. The SV option I wanted was the more efficient heater, but they screw you with the SV by wrapping the QC package into the LED headlights, so to get the options I wanted it was gonna be nearly $2000 more. Figured I could live without that since this car is all about saving money to me and I'm figuring a 3 year turn around on it. I'll update the signature.

 

[Nubo]

By using the "energy info display" you can approximate coasting fairly well with the accelerator pedal, without shifting into neutral.

Unless you are talking about the "bubbles" — a very crude and imprecise guide to energy in/out — there is no "energy info display" on the S model.

I was talking about the energy info display (for those who have one).

 

[lorenfb]

"I tried to shift into neutral before and just coast but it wasn't working."

Just drive it, you'll learn over time what driving approach is best for you.
There's no "right" way!

 

[Mottyski82]

"There's no (one) "right" way!

I love the Daniel Quinn quote!

 

[dgpcolorado]

...I tried to shift into neutral before and just coast but it wasn't working. I guess I wasn't aware of the 2 second rule...

There is a much easier way to shift instantly to neutral: just shift into reverse while traveling at a speed of greater than 7 mph. The car will beep at you and shift to neutral. One caution though: if you get into the habit of doing it this way and you reflexively shift into reverse/neutral at 7 mph or below you will get reverse and be slowing down very quickly; it is quite the opposite of coasting in neutral!

And, no, shifting to neutral this way won't "hurt" the car. In the LEAF the motor is always linked to the front wheels and the rotor always spins while the car is moving. Neutral is just no electromagnetic field applied to the rotor and reverse is the electromagnetic field applied with the opposite polarity to to that used for forward. The strength of the field is controlled by the accelerator and determines the power generated by the motor and applied to the wheels. None of this involves gear/transmission shifting, as with a conventional ICE car.

FWIW