Yes, Nissan Consult III is the tool, but cost more than the car does to buy one.
EV Warning light on but no error codes in LeafSpy Pro
- Thread starter PaPaSteve
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PaPaSteve
Active member
Thanks for that.
Looks like there is no need to purchase the full dealer kit which includes the computer.
The software can be rented from Nissan $50 for a one day use.
Sorting out the interface connection between the car and computer is the key for the next step.
It will probably be a least a week until I have something in my hands.
Fortunately this car is a spare.
I did not know that!
PaPaSteve
Active member
BTW
Page EVC-312 of the manual shows the first step is to confirm the 12V battery voltage is "11v or more".
PaPaSteve
Active member
Nissan Software rental
Pass thru with software
An update . . . I purchased this device only to find no luck with accessing the software, had to send it back.
Since this is our "in town only" car we are using it with the yellow warning lights displayed knowing that it's a short tow if it dies.
In the future I may try this :
pass thru device $550
Last edited:
LowellStewart
New member
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2015
- Messages
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I just got a warning light and a DTC P31E9. The dealer says I need part 21581-3NA0A, but there aren't any available from Nissan. He put in an after market part, but apparently it didn't fix the problem. He is going to try another after market pump, but I can tell he is not thinking it will fix the warning light. He says the car might go into "turtle mode". He is hinting that I might have to junk the car. It has a pretty new battery, so I don't like this idea.
Update:
It looks like they fixed it! They put in a new OEM water pump from a Pathfinder. Nissan part 21580-3JV0A. They said they had to "modify the bracket", whatever that means. The yellow warning light is no longer showing. This was after they tried two different aftermarket pumps, that did not turn the warning light off. The after market pumps were giving a P31E8 error code.
I was only charged for one pump and they gave me a loaner to drive while all this was going on.
Update:
It looks like they fixed it! They put in a new OEM water pump from a Pathfinder. Nissan part 21580-3JV0A. They said they had to "modify the bracket", whatever that means. The yellow warning light is no longer showing. This was after they tried two different aftermarket pumps, that did not turn the warning light off. The after market pumps were giving a P31E8 error code.
I was only charged for one pump and they gave me a loaner to drive while all this was going on.
Last edited:
PaPaSteve
Active member
Using LeafSpy app, the original fault code for our car was : P31E9-00 C0 EV/HEV Water Pump EVC-315
The last part of the code, EVC-315 references the repair manual section and page number.
Parts Geek had the pump in stock at the best price.
It was an easy change out that reduced the noise but didn't clear the warning light on the dash.
LeafSpy app shows a new code after the pump change out : P31E8-00 C0 EV/HEV Water Pump EVC-311
Unfortunately, LeafSpy app can't clear this code and when reading the manual to understand this code the diagnostic points to the factory Consult III software, which, hopefully your dealer has.
We are still using the car often and choosing to ignore the warning light.
All the best
The last part of the code, EVC-315 references the repair manual section and page number.
Parts Geek had the pump in stock at the best price.
It was an easy change out that reduced the noise but didn't clear the warning light on the dash.
LeafSpy app shows a new code after the pump change out : P31E8-00 C0 EV/HEV Water Pump EVC-311
Unfortunately, LeafSpy app can't clear this code and when reading the manual to understand this code the diagnostic points to the factory Consult III software, which, hopefully your dealer has.
We are still using the car often and choosing to ignore the warning light.
All the best
Oh so that's why the dealerships have such a poor record for making good diagnostics and repairs-- bad advice in the FSM sure doesn't help.Hopefully everybody knows by now that there are much better ways to determine if a battery is okay besides just making a single voltage measurement and calling it done.
You could try a "brute force" clearing of the codes by disconnecting the 12 volt battery following the manual procedure for doing so. It should clear the codes, and the ones that come back are likely active codes to tackle.
PaPaSteve
Active member
Hopefully everybody knows by now that there are much better ways to determine if a battery is okay besides just making a single voltage measurement and calling it done.
Keep in mind . . .
The power train design team is who determined 11 volts as the minimum required to diagnose the coolant pump system as outlined in the repair manual.
My speculation is : the average dealership mechanic sees 99 gasoline power cars for every 1 electric powered car, which is to say not many dealers have fully trained electric car repair technicians.
For us, the closest Nissan dealer is 100 miles away for a car with a practical range of little more than 40 miles.
Correct, disconnecting the 12V battery doesn't clear an active fault code.
For our car the Nissan Consult III is required to fully diagnose.
So, for now the strategy is "go til she blows" then junk the car.
