Yes, Nissan Consult III is the tool, but cost more than the car does to buy one.
Thanks for that.Yes, Nissan Consult III is the tool, but cost more than the car does to buy one.
I did not know that!The software can be rented from Nissan $50 for a one day use.
BTWPut it on a float charger (13.5V) to keep it fully charged at all times.
12.5 is only about 80% SOC
Nissan Software rentalI did not know that!
I just got a warning light and a DTC P31E9. The dealer says I need part 21581-3NA0A, but there aren't any available from Nissan. He put in an after market part, but apparently it didn't fix the problem. He is going to try another after market pump, but I can tell he is not thinking it will fix the warning light. He says the car might go into "turtle mode". He is hinting that I might have to junk the car. It has a pretty new battery, so I don't like this idea.
Oh so that's why the dealerships have such a poor record for making good diagnostics and repairs-- bad advice in the FSM sure doesn't help.BTW
Page EVC-312 of the manual shows the first step is to confirm the 12V battery voltage is "11v or more".
You could try a "brute force" clearing of the codes by disconnecting the 12 volt battery following the manual procedure for doing so. It should clear the codes, and the ones that come back are likely active codes to tackle.Using LeafSpy app, the original fault code for our car was : P31E9-00 C0 EV/HEV Water Pump EVC-315
The last part of the code, EVC-315 references the repair manual section and page number.
Parts Geek had the pump in stock at the best price.
It was an easy change out that reduced the noise but didn't clear the warning light on the dash.
LeafSpy app shows a new code after the pump change out : P31E8-00 C0 EV/HEV Water Pump EVC-311
Unfortunately, LeafSpy app can't clear this code and when reading the manual to understand this code the diagnostic points to the factory Consult III software, which, hopefully your dealer has.
We are still using the car often and choosing to ignore the warning light.
All the best
Oh so that's why the dealerships have such a poor record for making good diagnostics and repairs-- bad advice in the FSM sure doesn't help.
Hopefully everybody knows by now that there are much better ways to determine if a battery is okay besides just making a single voltage measurement and calling it done.
You could try a "brute force" clearing of the codes by disconnecting the 12 volt battery following the manual procedure for doing so. It should clear the codes, and the ones that come back are likely active codes to tackle.
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