Got hitch but I can’t find light plug

[cornbinder89]

Eeeeww. Would rubber tape solve that issue? Or is it an electro negativity thing I can’t avoid?

You can buy "self vulcanizing electrical tape" it is pricey when compared to the "plastic" stuff and does require a protective layer (friction tape) over it. I have a small roll of red and black.
Often used on motor leads etc to insulate higher voltages.
When all is said and done, I think the money would be a "wash" when compared to the adaptor with the plug in harness connectors.

 

[cornbinder89]

I sold my truck and got a sedan with a roof rack and a 5x9 flat trailer.

The Leaf tows like a beast.

Brother and I towed 21' of pipe behind a Prius. Pick-up trucks are ok but many times a trailer can do it better, and you don't have to keep the trailer on when you don't need to haul!

 

[Bombastinator2]

You can buy "self vulcanizing electrical tape" it is pricey when compared to the "plastic" stuff and does require a protective layer (friction tape) over it. I have a small roll of red and black.
Often used on motor leads etc to insulate higher voltages.
When all is said and done, I think the money would be a "wash" when compared to the adaptor with the plug in harness connectors.

So it would work? The generic one was $24 and a roll of tape is $8. Haven’t bought splicers yet.

 

[cornbinder89]

Well 1st I am not sure the non-powered converter will work, so that is question #1, taping up the splice will work for the short term, how long before a problem shows is an open question, quick taps and tape may last as long as you own the car, or may not depending on what it is exposed to.
In commercial service electrical connections were, are and will be a continuing problem especially with the crap they spread on the roads in winter. as lights and terminals got better, the fail point moved, but the failure rate stays about the same.
Using OEM type plugs for the splice, keeps that part close to OEM reliability.
I have an annoying and somewhat costly tendency to try and make any modifications I make reversable and as good if not better than the OEM system I am changing. In all likelihood, it will outlast my lifetime, and the person who may see the benefit is the next owner!

 

[Bombastinator2]

Well 1st I am not sure the non-powered converter will work, so that is question #1, taping up the splice will work for the short term, how long before a problem shows is an open question, quick taps and tape may last as long as you own the car, or may not depending on what it is exposed to.
In commercial service electrical connections were, are and will be a continuing problem especially with the crap they spread on the roads in winter. as lights and terminals got better, the fail point moved, but the failure rate stays about the same.
Using OEM type plugs for the splice, keeps that part close to OEM reliability.
I have an annoying and somewhat costly tendency to try and make any modifications I make reversable and as good if not better than the OEM system I am changing. In all likelihood, it will outlast my lifetime, and the person who may see the benefit is the next owner!

But it’s a water incursion thing not an electronegativity thing. Me I’m gonna drive the thing till the wheels fall off or I die, at which point I no longer care. I’m not worried about resale value. It will eventually be cubed most likely

 

[bruceha2000]

Brother and I towed 21' of pipe behind a Prius. Pick-up trucks are ok but many times a trailer can do it better, and you don't have to keep the trailer on when you don't need to haul!

Agreed on the "cars can be better than trucks and MOST people with a truck don't need one" thing. I can put 10' long dimensional lumber IN my Prius with the hatch closed. Raining? No problem. That doesn't work in any pickup, ever. And I did rent a UHaul trailer to move some cabinets with my Prius. Cost less than gas for a "commuter" pickup whose owner would still have to rent a trailer to move the same goods or make several trips.

 

[bruceha2000]

Found it towed fine. Great even. I can use the trailer as a flatbed during the day as long as my car’s tail lights are visible. It’s when I put the sides on or want to use it at night that I’m screwed.

Um, is that legal where you live? If so, great. Could get one a nice ticket here. The eTrailer hitches attach to the frame using the bolts that are already there for the rear bumper, no drilling, no new hardware. But I hear you on the crawling under the vehicle thing. I did it with jack stands and it wasn't a whole lot of fun. Of course in the installation videos they had a lift and two people to hold the hitch for attachment. I lifted the hitch with a floor jack, no way I could hold it up to mount it.

 

[Bombastinator2]

Um, is that legal where you live? If so, great. Could get one a nice ticket here. The eTrailer hitches attach to the frame using the bolts that are already there for the rear bumper, no drilling, no new hardware. But I hear you on the crawling under the vehicle thing. I did it with jack stands and it wasn't a whole lot of fun. Of course in the installation videos they had a lift and two people to hold the hitch for attachment. I lifted the hitch with a floor jack, no way I could hold it up to mount it.

Yes. But it’s illegal if the tail lights of the tow vehicle are obscured which is why I can’t use the thing with the sides on unless I have a working light system. Simply because there aren’t any people who HAVENT used the Curt system I bought one too even though it was 4 times the price. This way I know there will be no problems. I will return the other when it arrives. I,ve got one floor stand and one shop jack. I suppose it might have been possible if I chocked the other side with something, but it assumes I wouldn’t have trouble lifting the thing with the shop jack which I couldn’t guarantee. So hire it out was my only option.