91040
Well-known member
Now you tell me. Too late!TomT said:If you are going to do it that way, the Posi-Lock, Posi-Tap and Posi-Twist connectors are far more reliable and easier than the cheap and crappy fast taps...
Now you tell me. Too late!TomT said:If you are going to do it that way, the Posi-Lock, Posi-Tap and Posi-Twist connectors are far more reliable and easier than the cheap and crappy fast taps...
The PCM "donor" wire is 22 gauge? Just so I buy the right size posi-tap.gascant said:..It's pretty simple and clean to use a 22 gauge fast tap in the power control module and use a chassis ground most anywhere it's convenient.
Seems to be. It's the same diameter as the wire that comes with the DRL kit.DeaneG said:The PCM "donor" wire is 22 gauge? Just so I buy the right size posi-tap.gascant said:..It's pretty simple and clean to use a 22 gauge fast tap in the power control module and use a chassis ground most anywhere it's convenient.
Thank you! Off to the local NAPA store for a Posi-Tap.gascant said:Seems to be. It's the same diameter as the wire that comes with the DRL kit.
My DRLs are here, posi-taps on the way... but what does wire 57 already supply power to? Any idea what it is fused for (maybe 2-5 amps if it is 22 gauge)?GeekEV said:...Locate the red wire #57...Any questions?
It would be a BAD IDEA to tap off the relay coil driver circuit, I recommend you tap off AFTER the relay!GeekEV said:The #57 wire is the signal line used to trigger the ignition relay, it doesn't directly power anything as best I can tell. There is a 10A fuse, but if I'm reading the diagram right that's after the relay...
GeekEV said:I may not be reading the service manual diagrams correctly. They're a little hard to read if you're not used to their conventions. You don't have a copy you could double check by chance, do you? What am I saying, of course you do!
OK, it looks like the ignition relay has 2 circuits running through it, mainly the driver (coil) and the contactor (bar). See page PCS-23. Pin 57 is definitely in the contactor circuit, so no worry about killing everything switched by the relay. Given the convention of the wiring diagrams, it's also on the downstream side of the 10A fuse.GeekEV said:PCS-15 thru PCS-17, PCS-20 thru PCS-22, PG-63, PG-78, PG-83
Specifically, on page PCS-17 it is labeled as Ignition Relay Power Supply. On the wiring diagram on PCS-22, however it looks like it *is* on the switched side of the relay and after a 10A fuse. So I think we're fine after all... I guess I misspoke when I suggested it was triggering the relay.
Too late. I already did it the same way you did yours (but I only fed 1 DRL power lead into the PDM and using a red fast tap).GeekEV said:Yes, I think it's just a signal line. I'm not sure there's enough room in there for one of those add a circuits, but you could try it... I didn't know those existed when I did mine.
GeekEV said:Yes, I think it's just a signal line. I'm not sure there's enough room in there for one of those add a circuits, but you could try it... I didn't know those existed when I did mine.
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