Leaf Charging Problem

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ecarecar

New member
Joined
Oct 23, 2015
Messages
2
I recently bought a 2013 Leaf (an experiment that was going well until I tried to charge it.)

When I plug the "trickle charger" in, everything seems fine
The charger's green and orange light are on - the fault light has never turned on except for very briefly upon plugging in.
In the Leaf, one blue light is on and the second is flashing - not inconsistent with the battery's state of charge.

After 10 - 15 minutes, the charger's green and orange light start flashing in unison about every second accompanied by a clicking sound from the charger and the two blue lights in the Leaf start flashing in unison with the charger lights.

The batter does not get recharged.

Where is the problem? The charger or the car. I live up north and there are not many of these cars here. The nearest dealer doesn't have one and knows nothing about them.
 
What EVSE are you using? I had a similar problem with a third party-refurbed Clipper Creek charging station. I don't remember if the malfunction happened immediately or after a few minutes, but it only happened when the Leaf's timer was active - even though it was the correct time to charge. If the EVSE is a Clipper Creek (and even if it isn't) try turning off all charge timers.
 
First time this behaviour has been reported. Charge on a different circuit to see what happens.

Just to be sure- are you using a 120V circuit for the portable unit?
 
Problem solved. I do NOT understand why Nissan doesn't describe this.

Several places on the web (none a Nissan site) have discussions about same or similar problems.
One of the frequently occurring recommendations is to check the ground. It seemed reasonable
that that could be the problem, but I hate those stupid third prongs and my dad always cut them
off as soon as he found one.

But, the outlet I was using showed 0 V. between the "ground" and the other two prongs, so I found
an outlet that was grounded (showing approximately 120 AC). It has been charging for almost 2 hours.
I consider the problem solved.

The local dealer knew nothing. I am not sure if Carlos deserves all the generous compensation he gets.
 
Given that you and your dad have an irrational hatred of a safety feature that is often vital, I don't see how Nissan is responsible for your defective or partially disabled outlet. If a test light or voltmeter shows current flow between the Hot slot (smaller one) and the outlet box itself, then a ground pigtail can be installed to ground the outlet. I would check that whole circuit for soundness, though, not to mention the rest of the house. You should also research just what that "stupid third prong" does.
 
Third prongs save lives, at least this is what they are meant to do. Make sure the outlet you're using is actually grounded and the ground isn't simply connected to the neutral in the box which will read 120V between the hot and the ground but is very dangerous (Google for "bootleg ground" if interested).
 
91040 said:
Surprised that it would charge at all without a ground. That is one of the checks the EVSE is supposed to perform.

I'm guessing it's a loose connection, and the ground circuit makes contact when the EVSE plug is pressed into the outlet, only to lose contact again a few minutes later.
 
LeftieBiker said:
He already tested the outlet, and it isn't presently grounded.

I was referring to the other outlet that is seemingly grounded and he can charge his Leaf from it. I wouldn't be too surprised to find an outlet wired like this in a home where the grounding prong was routinely cut off (if this is the same home).

Pirate_Ground.JPG
 
That kind of thing is criminal. Even in pre-grounded-outlet days, the procedure was to ground the box (if there was a ground wire in the cable, or the cable was armored) so that a ground was available and the box itself was less a hazard.
 
LeftieBiker said:
That kind of thing is criminal.

Sure, but if you're tired of cutting grounding prongs you may be tempted to solve the problem once and for all. Just saying...

In my current home some genius wired a newer range oven that needs a separate neutral with a 10-2 NM wire and connected appliance neutral to the grounding conductor. This was done in like 2006. After I upgraded my service to 200A my old main panel became a sub. Ouch. I still have to clean this mess.
 
I have a similar setup, but with a 50A fusebox as the "new" (in 1987) sub-panel, and a 200 amp service I helped install then. I've been tidying wiring messes for 25 years, and it's still a mess. I hate old houses...
 
I have a 2015 Leaf. When I charge it most of the time the most I can get is 85, 90 or 127 miles out of the charge.
It's to irregular for me. I feel that something is not right with the onboard charger.
Any suggestions.
 
Rcharmak said:
I have a 2015 Leaf. When I charge it most of the time the most I can get is 85, 90 or 127 miles out of the charge.
It's to irregular for me. I feel that something is not right with the onboard charger.
Any suggestions.
Search the forum for "guess-o-meter", and never pay attention to that number again. :)
 
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