Leviton Evr-Green EVSE Info/Pics

[TimeHorse]

Note that even the 360 model won't charge a Tesla at the 14.4 kW / 70 Amp rate it's capable of on J1772. The Tesla Model S should be able to use the J1772 14.4 kW / 70 Amp rate, but they don't appear to have finalized the charging specifications yet. Most Tesla owners would probably be happy with 6.6 kW charging at home, with the 14.4 kW being more useful in public charging for longer trips.

Good point about charge speed. I wish the Leviton came out sooner and had at least the 320 model ready but since not, my EVSE can do that: http://aecn.timehorse.com/2010/12/clipper-creek-cs-100-evse-installed.html

 

[greenleaf]

Note that even the 360 model won't charge a Tesla at the 14.4 kW / 70 Amp rate it's capable of on J1772. The Tesla Model S should be able to use the J1772 14.4 kW / 70 Amp rate, but they don't appear to have finalized the charging specifications yet. Most Tesla owners would probably be happy with 6.6 kW charging at home, with the 14.4 kW being more useful in public charging for longer trips.

Good point about charge speed. I wish the Leviton came out sooner and had at least the 320 model ready but since not, my EVSE can do that: http://aecn.timehorse.com/2010/12/clipper-creek-cs-100-evse-installed.html

Very cool!

Just wondering -- is the new subpanel really needed? Or it was put there for some other use, like adding one or two 110V outlets?

 

[garygid]

Some L2 EVSEs are certified ONLY for hard-wired connection.

L2 EVSEs, with suitable safety features and Listing, may legally be used as "plug-in", when "indoors".

No, putting a cover on the plug & socket do not make it a "hard-wired" installation.

 

[greenleaf]

Some L2 EVSEs are certified ONLY for hard-wired connection.

I understand that.

TimeHorse's system actually has 3 breakers before reaching the EVSE :
200A (assume main power breaker), 125A (main panel) and 100A (sub panel).

My question was the requirement for the sub-panel -- is it optional?

 

[Smidge204]

My question was the requirement for the sub-panel -- is it optional?

You need to have a means of disconnect within sight of the device. Since the main panel is in a different location you have to add something - a sub panel is one option, but a (fused?) disconnect switch or enclosed breaker should also work. A sub panel at least gives you the option of adding additional (though small) loads, which is nice.
=Smidge=

 

[greenleaf]

My question was the requirement for the sub-panel -- is it optional?

You need to have a means of disconnect within sight of the device. Since the main panel is in a different location you have to add something - a sub panel is one option, but a (fused?) disconnect switch or enclosed breaker should also work. A sub panel at least gives you the option of adding additional (though small) loads, which is nice.
=Smidge=

I see. So it is either the breaker in the sub-panel or a disconnect. I get it. Thanks.

 

[DarkStar]

My question was the requirement for the sub-panel -- is it optional?

You need to have a means of disconnect within sight of the device. Since the main panel is in a different location you have to add something - a sub panel is one option, but a (fused?) disconnect switch or enclosed breaker should also work. A sub panel at least gives you the option of adding additional (though small) loads, which is nice.
=Smidge=

For my Blink install, the contractor spoke with the city and they decided that installing a lockout on the breaker for the EVSE qualified as a "disconnect."

 

[smkettner]

I don't think a service disconnect is required for an EVSE. Local codes may vary.

 

[garygid]

Some local building departments do not require a "nearby" dusconnect, and some do.
Likely, some can go either way?

I plan to install a 20-amp breaker and circuit, and include a 20-amp rated, 2-pole, simple On/Off switch (from Home Depot) right at the sockets.
This could be convenient for safely plugging and unplugging, and for turning off the "vampire" load.

 

[TimeHorse]

Just wondering -- is the new subpanel really needed? Or it was put there for some other use, like adding one or two 110V outlets?

You need to have a means of disconnect within sight of the device. Since the main panel is in a different location you have to add something - a sub panel is one option, but a (fused?) disconnect switch or enclosed breaker should also work. A sub panel at least gives you the option of adding additional (though small) loads, which is nice.

For my Blink install, the contractor spoke with the city and they decided that installing a lockout on the breaker for the EVSE qualified as a "disconnect."

I plan to install a 20-amp breaker and circuit, and include a 20-amp rated, 2-pole, simple On/Off switch (from Home Depot) right at the sockets.
This could be convenient for safely plugging and unplugging, and for turning off the "vampire" load.

Bzzzt. You're all wrong. Man, I need to check these threads sooner!

Actually, the explanation is basically here: Posts about Time-Of-Use Metering

No, I didn't need a sub-panel where I live. The EVSE doesn't need to be in sight of a shut-off. The two panels you see are the 200A household panel and the 125A sub-panel. The sub-panel is currently a child of the main panel, but eventually I hope to hook that directly into a 3-port Time-Of-Use meter, so the 200A is the household meter and the 125A is the EV meter. At least, that's the theory. As of yet Dominion Virginia Power is still bidding their new EV TOU rates at the State Corporation Commission.

Thank you for playing. As losers, your punishment is to all vote for me in the Electric Drive win a LEAF contest via the link in my signature.

(Note, if you are reading this after 20 April, then that link was removed because the contest has ended.)

 

[Smidge204]

The EVSE doesn't need to be in sight of a shut-off.

The 2011 NEC disagrees, but the NEC is not legally enforceable in and of itself (only if the local codes reference it) so I can only go by what I know.

Please correct me if I'm wrong but the CS-100 is rated for more than 60 amps, so this paragraph would apply. Granted "readily accessible" is not exactly the same as line-of-sight but just about all of the reviewers I deal with would interpret it that way. The breaker in the main panel would not qualify IMHO so you would need something somewhere.
=Smidge=

 

[EVDRIVER]

Just like the many other threads here

 

[TimeHorse]

Please correct me if I'm wrong but the CS-100 is rated for more than 60 amps, so this paragraph would apply. Granted "readily accessible" is not exactly the same as line-of-sight but just about all of the reviewers I deal with would interpret it that way. The breaker in the main panel would not qualify IMHO so you would need something somewhere.
=Smidge=

Fair point, but

• Fairfax County and indeed the Commonwealth of Virginia is not on the 2011 NEC, but uses the 2005 NEC last I checked. We were supposed to adapt NEC 2008 last month but I don't know if that's been ratified yet. Specifically, I cover these questions in my TOU FAQ questions Why can't I just install a second meter? What does NEC / IRC E3501.2 say? and I read something about installing a plaque for the fire marshal so that he or she would know where the other meter was and be able to switch it off, is that true?
• I read accessible as easy to access, and although my primary panel isn't right by the meter, it isn't that hard to walk down to the basement and just switch the circuit off. But this would be at an inspector's discretion. I should add that my inspector didn't go to the basement but did check the sub-panel and otherwise trusted my electrician's work since he had worked with him before.

Okay, so did you vote for me yet Smidge? :twisted:

 

[wwhitney]

Granted "readily accessible" is not exactly the same as line-of-sight

Indeed. In some other applications, the NEC specifically requires disconnects to be within line of sight. So, the requirement for "readily accessible" (which is defined in Article 100) definitely does not include being within line-of-sight.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[smkettner]

The EVSE doesn't need to be in sight of a shut-off.

The 2011 NEC disagrees, but the NEC is not legally enforceable in and of itself (only if the local codes reference it) so I can only go by what I know.

Please correct me if I'm wrong but the CS-100 is rated for more than 60 amps, so this paragraph would apply.

But not to Leviton 160 or 320 as this thread is about.

 

[TimeHorse]

But not to Leviton 160 or 320 as this thread is about.

Yes, yes, sorry for bringing us off-topic with the CS-100, I just wanted to show an install.

As for the 320, I wish I could get that, but here we are in April and the 160 doesn't even have a price yet and when my electrician called, he said Leviton said the Evr-Green 320 was still a year away. Probably would have worked out were it not for the tax credit, since I don't expect my LEAF until at least December, but I am very glad I got that $2000 to reduce my tax bill to a mere $1400 owed. :roll:

Hopefully, the Evr-Green 160 will be out by the end of the year since the Focus is supposed to be branded with it by then and of course the delay has already become interminable. It's just like waiting for a LEAF outside of the blessed 7!

(But not long for me if you vote below. :mrgreen

 

[Smidge204]

Okay, so did you vote for me yet Smidge? :twisted:

Weeeeeellllll.... the 2005 NEC has the exact same requirement, so technically it's still debatable

Meh, what the hey. vote won't cost me nuthin' nohow.
=Smidge=

 

[TimeHorse]

Okay, so did you vote for me yet Smidge? :twisted:

Weeeeeellllll.... the 2005 NEC has the exact same requirement, so technically it's still debatable

Meh, what the hey. vote won't cost me nuthin' nohow.

Thanks, Smidge! And in fairness, I concede you're right about NEC so we may as well say it depends on whether the inspector had his morning coffee, or let your mind wonder for other euphemisms.

 

[garygid]

Note that typical Residential 240v AC is NOT more than 150v AC from Ground.
So, this section would/might apply ONLY to High-Current (over 60 amp) EVSEs, of which there are very few.
Right?

 

[wwhitney]

Note that typical Residential 240v AC is NOT more than 150v AC from Ground.
So, this section would/might apply ONLY to High-Current (over 60 amp) EVSEs, of which there are very few.
Right?

Right.

Wayne