NEMA 6-20

[BIGneutrino]

Since we are now an EV-only family (2012 SL & 2013 SL), I will be ordering an EVSE Upgrade in the coming weeks to provide some peace of mind in the case of our Blink unit breaking or to provide opportunities to charge at family/friend's houses that we frequently visit outside of the comfort range. For now, we are upgrading the Nissan-supplied EVSE from the 2013 SL only.

In compiling the plug types that we have access to, one family member said that we could charge off of their NEMA 6-20P plug located in their garage. It looks like the NEMA 6-20 is rated at 250(?) volts and 20 amps. With it only being 20 amps, should we expect a much slower charge on our LEAFs?

 

[91040]

The 2012's maximum is 16A on 240VAC, 3.3kW/h.
The 2013's maximum is 30A (32A?) on 240VAC, 6.?kW/h.

A continuous charge is defined as more than 3 hours of constant use.

On a 20A circuit: 16A is the maximum for continuous use. So about half speed for the 2013. Still way better than L1!

In compiling the plug types that we have access to, one family member said that we could charge off of their NEMA 6-20P plug located in their garage. It looks like the NEMA 6-20 is rated at 250(?) volts and 20 amps. With it only being 20 amps, should we expect a much slower charge on our LEAFs?

 

[planet4ever]

The 2012's maximum is 16A on 240VAC, 3.3kW/h.
The 2013's maximum is 30A (32A?) on 240VAC, 6.?kW/h.

Basically right, though your units are messed up. The charge rate is measured in kW, not kW/h. The total amount of electricity transferred is measured in kWh (kW times hours). And the 2013 faster charger delivers 6.0 kW to the battery, not 6.6 kW as many people seem to believe. 6.6 kW is what it can pull from the wall, and that works out to 27.5A at 240v.

On the issue of what plug and receptacle size to use, the EVSEupgrade itself is limited to 20A. As you at least hint, "91040", continuous use of a circuit is limited to 80% of that circuit's capacity, so you need a 25A circuit to be able to charge at 20A. I would consider using a straight 6-20 outlet and plug for a 20A continuous charge to be iffy, even if the circuit was rated at 25A or more. But a locking L6-20 connector (which is what the EVSEupgrade comes with) would be safer. The table BIGneutrino showed doesn't include the locking connectors.

However, for practical purposes, most circuits with higher than 20A capacity are at least 30A, which should have 30A connectors, typically 10-30 or 14-30. An L6-20 adapter to one of these should let the EVSEupgrade run at 20A, certainly not as fast as the 27.5A (input from wall) that the new charger is capable of. But it's not really all that much slower, either, when you consider that many public charging stations run at 208v.

• At someone's house, 20A * 240v = 4.8 kW.
• At a public station you might get 27.5A * 208v = ~5.7 kW.

Pretty close, huh?
Note: These are power at the wall. You will lose 10% to 15% in the charger (but no appreciable loss in the EVSE).

Ray

 

[BIGneutrino]

The 2012's maximum is 16A on 240VAC, 3.3kW/h.
The 2013's maximum is 30A (32A?) on 240VAC, 6.?kW/h.

Basically right, though your units are messed up. The charge rate is measured in kW, not kW/h. The total amount of electricity transferred is measured in kWh (kW times hours). And the 2013 faster charger delivers 6.0 kW to the battery, not 6.6 kW as many people seem to believe. 6.6 kW is what it can pull from the wall, and that works out to 27.5A at 240v.

On the issue of what plug and receptacle size to use, the EVSEupgrade itself is limited to 20A. As you at least hint, "91040", continuous use of a circuit is limited to 80% of that circuit's capacity, so you need a 25A circuit to be able to charge at 20A. I would consider using a straight 6-20 outlet and plug for a 20A continuous charge to be iffy, even if the circuit was rated at 25A or more. But a locking L6-20 connector (which is what the EVSEupgrade comes with) would be safer. The table BIGneutrino showed doesn't include the locking connectors.

However, for practical purposes, most circuits with higher than 20A capacity are at least 30A, which should have 30A connectors, typically 10-30 or 14-30. An L6-20 adapter to one of these should let the EVSEupgrade run at 20A, certainly not as fast as the 27.5A (input from wall) that the new charger is capable of. But it's not really all that much slower, either, when you consider that many public charging stations run at 208v.

• At someone's house, 20A * 240v = 4.8 kW.
• At a public station you might get 27.5A * 208v = ~5.7 kW.

Pretty close, huh?
Note: These are power at the wall. You will lose 10% to 15% in the charger (but no appreciable loss in the EVSE).

Ray

Great info! Thank you.

 

[EVDRIVER]

You can actually draw 20A on a 20A breaker that is rated for 100% continuous use, the only difference is that these breakers have heavy duty terminals for the wire to keep from loosening form heat over a long period of time of many cycles of use, if ever. For occasional use on a proper circuit is it not a big issue. Regardless the upgrade is adjustable so if you want you can simply dial back the amps a bit using the programming.

 

[smkettner]

I have my Leviton 160 (16a) plugged into a 6-20R, works beautifully.
The evse upgrade has adjustable power so just dial it down to 16-18 amp and let it rip.