Splicing two charging cables together
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fooljoe
Well-known member
I assume you're talking about a 30A Yazaki cord/connector, and the Tesla MC will deliver up to 40A, so you're creating a potential fire hazard. But if you wanted to do this, and were very careful about checking the temps on all your connections and the handle when charging, and don't care about it looking janky, you could just get a junction box and tie the appropriate wires together with wire nuts. The Tesla cord will have 2 pairs of two hot wires (should be red and black, perhaps white and black), one green ground wire, and one small gauge pilot wire (could be any other color.) It may also have a proximity wire, which probably won't have a corresponding wire in the Yazaki cord, but shouldn't be needed. Twist together the 2 red Tesla hots with the 1 red Yazaki hot, similar for the black hots, then the grounds, then the pilots. It might take you some trial and error to make sure you're not connecting the Tesla proximity wire instead of the pilot.
If you want a much cleaner solution, get a J1772 connector without a cord attached, which you can get for $110 from TucsonEV. The problem with that is you'll need to crimp the pins on the wires, which is hard to do properly, and another potential fire hazard if done poorly.
If you want the best solution, talk to Tony at Quick Charge Power. They make the Jesla, which is exactly what you're trying to do. Since you already have a Tesla MC, you could probably work out something where you send in your MC and they convert it to a Jesla for you, or just swap your unit for an in-stock Jesla.
If you want a much cleaner solution, get a J1772 connector without a cord attached, which you can get for $110 from TucsonEV. The problem with that is you'll need to crimp the pins on the wires, which is hard to do properly, and another potential fire hazard if done poorly.
If you want the best solution, talk to Tony at Quick Charge Power. They make the Jesla, which is exactly what you're trying to do. Since you already have a Tesla MC, you could probably work out something where you send in your MC and they convert it to a Jesla for you, or just swap your unit for an in-stock Jesla.
If I were doing it I would get a 2 inch piece of plastic sewer pipe 6 inches long and 2 end caps. I would crimp, solder, and insulate each wire. I would run the cable through at each end through some proper sized glands.
When everything checked out I would glue the end caps in place. This would result in a rugged and safe junction.
A better solution would to send the Tesla EVSE to Tony so he could crimp on a J1772 connector.
When everything checked out I would glue the end caps in place. This would result in a rugged and safe junction.
A better solution would to send the Tesla EVSE to Tony so he could crimp on a J1772 connector.
fooljoe
Well-known member
I have one on my Jlong, and it seems like a decent connector to me, and I like the look of it. The button does push down really easily, and I often find that just a little bit of jostling can cause the cap to come off, but that's not a big deal at all. If anything, it's a big improvement over the older Dostar connectors (which I also have), which have a button the requires a lot of force to work.
Just solder the pins, no need to buy a 4 indent crimper. Your cable is not going into space, keeping a aircraft in the air or keeping some alive. If you are going into business building cables, you can spend a few grand for a crimper. If you are doing a one off for your own use, just solder the damn connector. I have used my soldered first gen. Dostar connector at 47 amps with no heating issues. How do I know? I installed a temperature probe between the two power pins and monitor the temperature. Soldering also will fix those improperly crimped Rema cables.sphinx said:
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=16876&start=10
pchilds said:
Oh wow, didn't realize they were that expensive. I thought it would be around $50. Soldering it is....
In terms of soldering irons. I have a basic radio shack one that has worked very well around the house. Will that work for this?
If I was to do this I would use some uninsulated #10 crimp sleeves. I would crimp them to hold them in place. I would then solder them. I would insulate the whole thing with some thick wall shrink tubing. The glands would hold the whole thing securely and you would be confident that you have a good connection.
The trick to solder large wires is to use a good iron with a large tip. I really do not think any thing Radio Shack sells qualifies.
The trick to solder large wires is to use a good iron with a large tip. I really do not think any thing Radio Shack sells qualifies.
TonyWilliams
Well-known member
http://shop.quickchargepower.com/Service-Conversion-of-Tesla-UMC-to-JESLA-w-50-amp-J1772-plug-UMC2JESLA.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Our conversion of your exisiting Tesla UMC (mobile connector) includes the J1772 plug.
http://shop.quickchargepower.com/J1772-Plug-50-Amp-JP50A.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
We cannot work with a used plug, since we won't have the pins. Plus, we would never work with a plug rated for less than that of the UMC. Our plug is rated at 50 amps, and now uses many of the modifications that we have passed on to the manufacturer. This isn't a sideline; it is our primary business.
The pins are professionally crimped with aerospace (mil-spec) certified tooling. There is no "splice". Our method isn't the short-cut one, and we've mangaged to sell a whole bunch without a singular crimping / overheating failure. I think we do it the best way possible.
Having said all that, if you're comfortable doing it yourself, I'm sure there are any number of alternate ways that are cheaper and simpler.
Our conversion of your exisiting Tesla UMC (mobile connector) includes the J1772 plug.
http://shop.quickchargepower.com/J1772-Plug-50-Amp-JP50A.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
We cannot work with a used plug, since we won't have the pins. Plus, we would never work with a plug rated for less than that of the UMC. Our plug is rated at 50 amps, and now uses many of the modifications that we have passed on to the manufacturer. This isn't a sideline; it is our primary business.
The pins are professionally crimped with aerospace (mil-spec) certified tooling. There is no "splice". Our method isn't the short-cut one, and we've mangaged to sell a whole bunch without a singular crimping / overheating failure. I think we do it the best way possible.
Having said all that, if you're comfortable doing it yourself, I'm sure there are any number of alternate ways that are cheaper and simpler.
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