The battery replacement/buyback thread.

[Deleted member 37366]

Just thought I'd share my experience with Nissan's battery warranty.

My 2017 Nissan Leaf hit 8 bars recently, so I went to a dealership and applied for a replacement battery back in February of this year. They've allowed me to keep my car in the meantime, but it's been about 8 months and still no word on when a replacement battery will be available. I've called the dealership a couple times over the past several months to check on the status of the replacement, but they always just tell me that there are no battery shipments in sight, and that they have no idea when they'll be able to get me a replacement.

Eventually I got tired of waiting, so I called Nissan CA to inquire about a buyback. They called me back the very next day and said that they were going to decline to offer a buyback, citing that my car was not in bad enough condition to qualify for one or something, and that I should just continue waiting for a battery. I asked them if they knew when a battery would be available and they said they had no idea. I didn't bother arguing with them, and I instead just opened a case with BBB Auto Line. Hopefully this'll get resolved soon, 'cuz I'm tired of just waiting around. I'll post an update here if anything significant happens.

OMG, Nissan is driving me crazy. So in the previous case that I opened, I specifically inquired about a buyback, and Nissan explicitly declined to offer me one, stating that I should just continue to wait for my battery. I was kinda surprised by how quickly they blew me off, so I asked them to send me everything they said in writing, just in case I needed to pursue litigation in the future. So they sent me an email, and something they wrote didn't make sense to me, so I tried to call them back to ask them to clarify what they had written. The CA representative that I spoke to said that Arbitration would call me back soon (Spoiler Alert: they never did).

After a few weeks of not hearing from Nissan, I decided to open another case specifically to inquire about how much longer I would have to wait to receive a battery. The CA representative said that Nissan would probably be able to expedite the process for me, and that I would receive a call from someone soon. So a NEW arbitration specialist just called me today, and NOW they're saying that I'm not going to be receiving a battery and that they want to give me an offer to repurchase my vehicle. Are you freakin' kidding me??? So I explained to her that at this point, since the previous specialist explicitly told me that they were not going to offer me a buyback, that I had already spent a bunch of money on electrical work to have a level 2 charging station installed at my house. She said that she could factor that cost into the repurchase agreement, but I explained that the electrical work was very costly since it required a panel replacement, a service upgrade, and some tree trimming. She said that they wouldn't be able to consider any of those costs.

It's difficult to argue with Nissan if I don't even know how much the repurchase offer is, so I told them to go ahead and send me the dumb email so I can send them some documents and they can make me an offer. So I guess I'm gonna go take some pictures of my car now. I sure as heck ain't eating the cost of all that electrical work though, so I'm definitely still going to push for a new battery if their offer is anything less than phenomenal.

Oh BTW, my earlier post mentioned that I was opening a case with BBB Auto Line. Turns out my car is too old (2017) to qualify for their program. O well.

More on this story as it develops.

 

[TeaHSD]

Final Update: Buyback 11/2/2023

2016 Nissan Leaf 30 kWh battery.
Bought from Carmax 02/08/2020

Time with my Leaf: 02/08/2020 - 11/02/2023:
ODOMETER = 36,127 - 51,648

Starting SOH = 85% but dropped first bar and SOH down to 80.5 % within 2 weeks of purchase.
Ending SOH = 63.71. Was losing % very fast even with minimal driving.

Bought from Carmax 2/2020 = $14,000 + $1500 tax/title = $15,500 total
Buy-back from Nissan (after 15,000 miles of driving) = $15,500 - $1700 in usage deductions = $13,800
Bought: a 2020 Chevy Bolt (with battery replaced) and 45,000 miles / 1 owner for $19,000 out the door.

Lost 4th bar 7/2023.
Contacted Nissan Consumer Affairs for Buyback 8/2023
Check in-hand after 2 arbitrators: 11/2/2023 (2.5 months)

Recommendation: Don’t wait for a 40 (or 30) kWh battery to show up from Nissan. TAKE THE BUY BACK and be done with your Leaf nightmare …. No more batteries seem to be coming. Just listen to Nissan when they keep saying this to you!

 

[adavidw]

Oh BTW, my earlier post mentioned that I was opening a case with BBB Auto Line. Turns out my car is too old (2017) to qualify for their program. O well.

I don’t think there’s any age limit on the Auto Line program, since it’s supposed to cover all issues related to manufacturer warranty. Instead, I think they have some triage on incoming cases that automatically rejects cars over a certain age because they assume there’s no warranty coverage anymore.

The same thing happened to me when I opened a case with the BBB. They initially rejected it and said my car was too old, so I had to actually call them and explained that despite the age, there was still an active manufacturer warranty covering the battery, and that was the part at issue. They reopened the case and did their thing at that point.

 

[MikeinPA]

The same thing happened to me when I opened a case with the BBB. They initially rejected it and said my car was too old, so I had to actually call them and explained that despite the age, there was still an active manufacturer warranty covering the battery, and that was the part at issue. They reopened the case and did their thing at that point.

I am jealous. After Nissan blew me off, I went to the BBB Autoline here in Pennsylvania. First they changed my information form from 19,000 miles to 190,000 miles and rejected it. I got them to correct that but they still wouldn't respond after that. Ghosted. This was for a bad cell claim on a 2013 Leaf that I filed in 2020.

What state are you in?

 

[Deleted member 37366]

Oh BTW, my earlier post mentioned that I was opening a case with BBB Auto Line. Turns out my car is too old (2017) to qualify for their program. O well.

I don’t think there’s any age limit on the Auto Line program, since it’s supposed to cover all issues related to manufacturer warranty. Instead, I think they have some triage on incoming cases that automatically rejects cars over a certain age because they assume there’s no warranty coverage anymore.

Ah, I see... Yeah, I was kinda wondering if that was the case. I tried explaining that the battery was still under warranty, but the person that I spoke to kept insisting that my car was too old to qualify. Maybe I'll call back and try to speak to someone else about reopening the case. But I guess I'll see what happens with my current Consumer Affairs case first. I just submitted all my documents the other day, so hopefully they'll be getting back to me soon.

 

[Nords]

On Monday I'm calling 1-800-NISSAN1 to start the buyback process on our 2017 Leaf.
https://mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=635048#p635048
Our local Nissan service manager agreed that they had nothing left to offer us about the lack of replacement batteries on our 11-month-old warranty claim. Neither I nor the service manager are familiar with how the process goes on Oahu or how long it'll take, but my spouse and I are shopping for a replacement vehicle now so that we're ready to give up our Leaf... or for when it gives up on us.

Today we had our first incident where the car shut us down at the side of the road. We've heard of it happening to a few others on Oahu, but this was a total surprise to us. I managed to recover from a red-triangle DTC and get us back home, but for a few minutes we thought we'd be spending the rest of the day with a tow truck.
https://mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=635049#p635049

 

[Nords]

On Monday 13 November I spoke to Nissan Consumer Affairs (1-800-NISSAN1) and handed over our info on the Li-ion battery warranty claim. They validated the J code (assigned through our local dealer) and gave me a case number. He said that Nissan would either expedite the battery replacement or possibly buy back the car. He said Nissan would call back the next day.

On Tuesday I received a call from a different person at Nissan’s Consumer Affairs department. They verified all of my contact information, gave me their contact info, and promised that someone would call next week with a status of expediting the battery replacement.

I pointed out that after 11 months, promising an update next week did not look like expediting. I asked multiple questions and was rebuffed every time with a promise that someone would call next week. I said that they were very good at not answering any of my questions and I asked what else I should do. They advised waiting for the call next week. I asked them to notify Nissan that I’m filing an auto warranty complaint with the BBB.

Today I filed the BBB Auto Line complaint online and... now I’m waiting for BBB to validate the warranty dispute. They’ll send me their instructions to create an online BBB warranty dispute account and submit the Customer Claim Form.

In other news, on Monday we bought a new-to-us 2018 Leaf with 40K miles. We’re the third owners and it has all 12 bars on its battery capacity. It’s nice to see three digits of range on the dashboard again, too...

 

[wrldsgrtstmiracle]

2020 40kwH Leaf S - bought Certified Pre-Owned from Nissan Dealership at 26K miles in July 2022 at 58K miles now

I started having an issue where the battery would decrease actively while driving at 40mph, while in B-Mode, with the car in Eco Mode. I actually saw it happen only just last week. I was at a red light, started at 70%, drove for 2 mins until the next red and within that time it sank to 59% before jumping back up to 70%. I called it quits there and didn’t even bother driving to the dealer.

When the tow man came to deliver it to the dealer, upon turning on and despite not moving it did the same thing. The dealership has had it since Monday and Nissan called me yesterday saying they’re waiting to hear back from the dealer.

I’m in a state with friendly lemon laws, so I’m hoping they just buy the vehicle back and be done with it . Sad to see it go because rn I can’t afford another car. I would get another Leaf, the next one with the 60kwH battery though.

Anyone have experience with a used 2020 or later? Here’s a link to my Reddit post with a video of what’s happening: https://www.reddit.com/r/leaf/s/eol5nc1qul

 

[Stanton]

2020 40kwH Leaf S - bought Certified Pre-Owned from Nissan Dealership at 26K miles in July 2022 at 58K miles now

I started having an issue where the battery would decrease actively while driving at 40mph, while in B-Mode, with the car in Eco Mode. I actually saw it happen only just last week. I was at a red light, started at 70%, drove for 2 mins until the next red and within that time it sank to 59% before jumping back up to 70%. I called it quits there and didn’t even bother driving to the dealer.

You have a weak cell/module, which is more common than you think on early Gen2 Leafs (with a 40 kWh pack). I'm kind of surprised it was "Certified pre-owned", which makes me think that sort of thing is worthless for an EV; it can be detected with a simple LeafSpy voltage graph.
Will be interesting to see if they choose to replace the bad module(s) or offer you another (similar) Leaf.

 

[wrldsgrtstmiracle]

2020 40kwH Leaf S - bought Certified Pre-Owned from Nissan Dealership at 26K miles in July 2022 at 58K miles now

I started having an issue where the battery would decrease actively while driving at 40mph, while in B-Mode, with the car in Eco Mode. I actually saw it happen only just last week. I was at a red light, started at 70%, drove for 2 mins until the next red and within that time it sank to 59% before jumping back up to 70%. I called it quits there and didn’t even bother driving to the dealer.

You have a weak cell/module, which is more common than you think on early Gen2 Leafs (with a 40 kWh pack). I'm kind of surprised it was "Certified pre-owned", which makes me think that sort of thing is worthless for an EV; it can be detected with a simple LeafSpy voltage graph.
Will be interesting to see if they choose to replace the bad module(s) or offer you another (similar) Leaf.

A day before that, I charged the car up to 100% and by 80%, 25 mins later, it did the same thing but even faster and dipped into the 30s. Even if they replace the module, like you mentioned: this was supposedly certified pre-owned. Why am I going through these issues, so soon? I don’t trust the car anymore sadly

 

[dean]

A day before that, I charged the car up to 100% and by 80%, 25 mins later, it did the same thing but even faster and dipped into the 30s. Even if they replace the module, like you mentioned: this was supposedly certified pre-owned. Why am I going through these issues, so soon? I don’t trust the car anymore sadly

Bad/weak cells within a pack are replaced by the dealer, under instruction from Nissan.

So you should (eventually) get your pack repaired. Hopefully they're giving you a loaner car in the meantime. This weak cell condition is not uncommon, but still fairly rare.

 

[wrldsgrtstmiracle]

A day before that, I charged the car up to 100% and by 80%, 25 mins later, it did the same thing but even faster and dipped into the 30s. Even if they replace the module, like you mentioned: this was supposedly certified pre-owned. Why am I going through these issues, so soon? I don’t trust the car anymore sadly

Bad/weak cells within a pack are replaced by the dealer, under instruction from Nissan.

So you should (eventually) get your pack repaired. Hopefully they're giving you a loaner car in the meantime. This weak cell condition is not uncommon, but still fairly rare.

I got a call from the dealer about 2 hours back saying that the tech thinks the battery itself is no good. I asked for a loaner. To paraphrase, I was told the tech wants to wait until Friday, so that he can reach out to an additional Nissan party for further information/testing. Once he gets a more concrete answer, then he’ll look for getting a loaner for me…for some reason. I didn’t argue.

I called up Nissan North America and started the buy back process. I got my case number. Unfortunately other than this I also faced an issue where the backup camera wouldn’t work when it rained (which the dealership I bought it from says happened and I never believed) and car play has been hit or miss since purchase as well. I don’t think this “Certified PreOwned” vehicle was actually certified at all. When I went to pick up the car they forgot to install the headrests and the seatbelts were jammed in their holders. There was also a small scratch that could have been painted or at least maybe buffed. They offered to buy me the paint so I could do it myself. I think I’m done with Nissan, having recalled all this. I should hear back from Corp by Tuesday.

 

[LeftieBiker]

" Certified" usually means that they have a long list of little things they are supposed to check, but rarely do. It's pretty much the same with most if not all manufacturers.

 

[wrldsgrtstmiracle]

" Certified" usually means that they have a long list of little things they are supposed to check, but rarely do. It's pretty much the same with most if not all manufacturers.

I believe it LOL! They showed me that list and gave me a copy! I’m looking at it now. They got me good. I’m seeing that the seatbelts were part of the list and they missed the issue with them! Anyone reading this going forward: if you get a certified pre-owned vehicle, definitely get the warranty and extended warranty (if applicable).

 

[SageBrush]

Anyone reading this going forward: if you get a certified pre-owned vehicle, definitely get the warranty and extended warranty (if applicable).

I think the take home message is to not pay an extra penny for "certified."
As for extended warranties, I prefer to go over the car myself or pay someone I trust to examine the car. I then bank/invest the warranty money.

Car dealers and manufacturers are delighted when you buy an extended warranty. That should tell you something. Actually, it should tell you a lot of somethings. People who do not have the discipline to bank/invest the extended warranty monies get screwed.

<<shrug>>

 

[wrldsgrtstmiracle]

Anyone reading this going forward: if you get a certified pre-owned vehicle, definitely get the warranty and extended warranty (if applicable).

I think the take home message is to not pay an extra penny for "certified."
As for extended warranties, I prefer to go over the car myself or pay someone I trust to examine the car. I then bank/invest the warranty money.

Car dealers and manufacturers are delighted when you buy an extended warranty. That should tell you something. Actually, it should tell you a lot of somethings. People who do not have the discipline to bank/invest the extended warranty monies get screwed.

<<shrug>>

I can see why you’d say that. Several things to clarify:

1. I never mentioned paying an extra penny. I think most used cars are certified pre-owned, at least those from dealerships.

2. I didn’t buy any extended warranty and if you have to, that sounds like a rip off, but necessary. Large purchases need some type of security against time. In consideration to the total cost of the car, a few more dollars to save on a lot of headache, makes sense. At any rate, the warranty I have was automatically added to my vehicle, and I think it is the default manufacturer’s warranty. All this said, I’m not sure if they did charge me, but a quick google search confirms it’s free.


I wouldn’t go as far to say don’t get a certified pre-owned vehicle , especially if you need a car and it’s one of the only things available. Bad example. Even if it weren’t, there is nothing inherently wrong with certified pre-owned. I think the dealerships we work with are a majority of the time scum, but not everyone working within them are. Some will sell you cars that thankfully are a lot better maintained than mine was seemingly not, and actually certified!

Truth be told, some of this falls on me. It was my first car and first car buying experience. I did a rudimentary look around and accepted their paperwork and servicing records. If I brought a mechanic or at least brought an ODB, understood it a bit better, and took the various warning signs of the dealer being a nightmare (a lot of pressure to sign, not wanting me to work with my credit union, bluffing saying there were other buyers when it sat for 6 months, showing me battery health in black and white and not bothering to bring a tech in to explain, etc.). These are the red flags to lookout for and looking back they knew were pushing something garbage on me

So again, to anyone reading in the future, feel free to get a certified pre-owned vehicle. Just make sure to get the warranty and extend it if possible. This is true for any vehicle.

 

[SageBrush]

I’m not sure if they did charge me

I am

but a quick google search confirms it’s free.

Dealers are famous for their generosity

<<chuckle>>
Let me clue you in a little to what happened: you paid through the nose for very low value crap (the "CPO" and its associated "warranty." ) You were not given a choice to decline, but that does not make it "free." Next time have this conversation:

Kid: About the CPO and its warranty. How much do you think it is worth ?
Dealer: Insane value! Thousands!! We lose our shirt every time, but we want our customers to love us!
Kid: LIke 3, 4 thousand ? Maybe more ?
Dealer: For sure! You are a smart kid!
Kid: Great. Keep the CPO. I want $3,500 more off the price

Dealer: I wish I could, but it is part of the car
KId: Hogwash. You have not spent a cent to cover repairs, and the CPO marketing costs are on you since I don't want it. Discount the car or no deal.

Take that money and invest it, wherever you end up buying the car.

Better luck next time, when you hopefully know more. In the meantime, eat your humble pie and stop giving lousy advice

 

[LeftieBiker]

How about a little cool-off, folks?My take on extended warranties is that if you can get a decent one cheap (less common but possible) AND you plan to keep the car, it's cheap peace of mind. One thing that most buyers don't understand, though, is that you can buy those manufacturer extended warranties any time before the original warranty expires. We bought one for my housemate's 2020 SV+ this September, when she bought it off lease.

 

[wrldsgrtstmiracle]

I’m not sure if they did charge me

I am

but a quick google search confirms it’s free.

Dealers are famous for their generosity

<<chuckle>>
Let me clue you in a little to what happened: you paid through the nose for very low value crap (the "CPO" and its associated "warranty." ) You were not given a choice to decline, but that does not make it "free." Next time have this conversation:

Kid: About the CPO and its warranty. How much do you think it is worth ?
Dealer: Insane value! Thousands!! We lose our shirt every time, but we want our customers to love us!
Kid: LIke 3, 4 thousand ? Maybe more ?
Dealer: For sure! You are a smart kid!
Kid: Great. Keep the CPO. I want $3,500 more off the price

Dealer: I wish I could, but it is part of the car
KId: Hogwash. You have not spent a cent to cover repairs, and the CPO marketing costs are on you since I don't want it. Discount the car or no deal.

Take that money and invest it, wherever you end up buying the car.

Better luck next time, when you hopefully know more. In the meantime, eat your humble pie and stop giving lousy advice

Why are you mad?

 

[LeftieBiker]

One of life's mysteries... Don't take it personally.