The only issue I see with using lube on both sides (particularly the front) is that the torque spec is dry. If you lube the splines and get any on the axle threads or back face of the nut/bearing race, you should technically derate that torque value somewhere around 30%.
I taped the threads far enough for the axle nut not to be able to contact grease. Also, the staking does help lock the nut so it doesn't move. Whether I was able to do that as well as the factory might make this locking less than ideal but I did avoid greasing the threads.
Is this verified? I mean no offence, it would be great to know we have an authoritative source!
Unfortunately, in my 40 or so years of wrenching on cars, I've met quite a variety of techs with respect to skill sets. Also, given the demands of daily work, very few of them are going to do a deep dive on tech issues like this. Consider the variety of "fixes" folks have reported from various dealers. The only permanent "fix" that makes sense to me would be a new hub assembly and axle, something you won't see often due to the expense of these parts. Consider the massive amount of torque that axle has to transmit via the splines to the hub...any play in the splines is likely not going to be addressed with a nut retorque or grease. This is likely why folks are seeing this issue return after a year or two. In the grand scheme, some play in those splines (assuming the nut is also correctly torqued) would not be a big deal, unless the play increases to the point of the parts becoming asymetrically aligned. In that case, you'd expect some vibration. Just my 2c.
If you read that at face value, it would suggest every LEAF needs the washer. That said, the washer is part of the standard axle nut assembly using the castellated cap/cotter pin. 2018 and up axles with a staked nut (so no cotter pin or cap) have the washer surface integrated to the nut, so there is no seperate washer listed. Again, a bit more confusion. EDIT: I would add the washer if you are addressing a click!
You can also get little "clicks" from the brake pads as they shift from unloaded to loaded in the calipers. You can isolate one from the other in that a brake click will not usually occur if you accelerate from a stop...only when you change direction and apply the brakes. CV axle click would normally show up if you're accelerating or regen is active with no braking applied. You'd definitely want ePedal off when trying to figure out which is which!
Excellent point about the washer, i think I will leave it off (again, mine is 2018 with staked nut)
This is what I gleaned from everything that I could find. As if the axle is always moving and without grease it takes some force for it to release causing a click. With grease it's free to move without the click. My hunch is there is still movement and some subtle noise that we just can't hear is present. What bothered me is that both my axles starting clicking within a couple of weeks of each other. I found it odd that the grease would seem to disappear at the same time.
I said "He's as close as I'm going to get[...]". I take him at his word and to me he seemed believable and in me doing what he said it worked. If you want to vet this fellow then be my guest.
Mine is a 2015 and did not have the washer, and it doesn't appear in the parts diagram either. I read it the same way as you so decided to add the washer, and had no problems so far. I did have to torque one side slightly higher than the spec in the TSB to get the cotter pin through.
There should be no play at all in the splines, so greasing them (if loose) would fill the gap (quiet) until the grease was pushed out and the click returned. Both my OE axles pushed right out by hand..and they should not. A wooden drift or axle puller should be required to remove them. I would apply the moly to the inside bearing surface only and torque to 134 ft/lbs.
I looked over the TSB closely, again, and I’m thinking the Belleville washer ( 40037-1CAOA) looks to be part of the “fix” for all years. It’s used in several other Nissan vehicles in the same way. It makes sense as installed correctly, it would add pressure to the hub housing and likely help limit axle movement if the splines are loose. Correct orientation would have the washer oriented so the outside edges are touching the hub housing…then the nut would compress the center portion of the washer flat. No idea what the washer’s spring rate is, but it’s likely in the 1000s of lbs.
Extremely interesting, looking forward to the video!
I've stated my hunch in post #72. I'm so sure of it because I could make one side click or both click. I had it down what it took to cause it. I could start moving and then punch it a little and still cause it. It needs the force to break the "sticktion" which causes the click. My axle nuts were plenty tight coming off and I put them back a little above spec but I think that torque has nothing to do with it. As with everyone else it's just a lot of speculation. It might be if the torque were much lower that it's just always free to move and the click goes away. I wasn't willing to try that experiment!
