The Definitive "CLICKING NOISE FROM FRONT OR REAR AXLE DURING TAKE-OFF/ACCELERATION" list

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Because the video in post #34 was by a fellow who worked for Nissan and lubed both sides, I followed this. He's as close as I'm going to get to an authoritative answer as to how do to this. I torqued to 138 ft/lb - a little more for good measure. In fact I calibrated my torque wrench with a specific weight on the handle and it did need a slight adjustment.

I did this 3 months ago and so far so good.
The only issue I see with using lube on both sides (particularly the front) is that the torque spec is dry. If you lube the splines and get any on the axle threads or back face of the nut/bearing race, you should technically derate that torque value somewhere around 30%.

That said, in our area, we have six months of winter with salt...so I'll be using a very light coat of antisieze on the splines, regardless.
 
If you lube the splines and get any on the axle threads or back face of the nut/bearing race,
I taped the threads far enough for the axle nut not to be able to contact grease. Also, the staking does help lock the nut so it doesn't move. Whether I was able to do that as well as the factory might make this locking less than ideal but I did avoid greasing the threads.
 
On inspection of my two axles, it was evident that the dealer had done the TSB for the previous owner. Both nuts had been staked previously, but it was obvious that the original stake on both right and left sides was expanded, and nut retorqued. They did not however replace or even restake the nut...which I'll admit was a surprise. They both came off too easy in my opinion. This vehicle has only been to the dealer as the previous owner was a driving school. Cars used for a driving school in Ontario need a yearly safety certification.
 
Is this verified? I mean no offence, it would be great to know we have an authoritative source!
Unfortunately, in my 40 or so years of wrenching on cars, I've met quite a variety of techs with respect to skill sets. Also, given the demands of daily work, very few of them are going to do a deep dive on tech issues like this. Consider the variety of "fixes" folks have reported from various dealers. The only permanent "fix" that makes sense to me would be a new hub assembly and axle, something you won't see often due to the expense of these parts. Consider the massive amount of torque that axle has to transmit via the splines to the hub...any play in the splines is likely not going to be addressed with a nut retorque or grease. This is likely why folks are seeing this issue return after a year or two. In the grand scheme, some play in those splines (assuming the nut is also correctly torqued) would not be a big deal, unless the play increases to the point of the parts becoming asymetrically aligned. In that case, you'd expect some vibration. Just my 2c.
 
Here's the next question - washer, or not?

The tech bulletin says

"For 370Z, LEAF, NV200, and 2013-2019 Sentra vehicles: Install the washer listed in the PARTS INFORMATION before installing the new Lock Nut."

So my mind says OK, any Leaf year gets the washer. They specify certain years for the Sentra, but for the others it must be all years.

I'm asking because I don't see many people mentioning that they added the washer. It's a Belleville washer (curved, not flat) and everything I've found says the blue side faces the axle (i.e. concave side IN towards car)
 
Here's the next question - washer, or not?

The tech bulletin says

"For 370Z, LEAF, NV200, and 2013-2019 Sentra vehicles: Install the washer listed in the PARTS INFORMATION before installing the new Lock Nut."

So my mind says OK, any Leaf year gets the washer. They specify certain years for the Sentra, but for the others it must be all years.

I'm asking because I don't see many people mentioning that they added the washer. It's a Belleville washer (curved, not flat) and everything I've found says the blue side faces the axle (i.e. concave side IN towards car)
If you read that at face value, it would suggest every LEAF needs the washer. That said, the washer is part of the standard axle nut assembly using the castellated cap/cotter pin. 2018 and up axles with a staked nut (so no cotter pin or cap) have the washer surface integrated to the nut, so there is no seperate washer listed. Again, a bit more confusion. EDIT: I would add the washer if you are addressing a click!

With regard to lubing the axle splines, here is the 2015 axle blurb from the Nissan Service Manual. Note the application of 440047S0000 (Molykote77) to just the axle area that is pulled onto the wheel bearing hub. If I had to guess, I would suspect that cars with the click issue did not have this applied during factory assembly.

2015 axle service.jpg
 
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My 2012 Leaf had multiple clicks and thunks. Found play in the CV joints so I changed both half-axles with aftermarket parts, but the thunk remained. It turned out to be the rear motor mount, where the rubber was cracked and damaged. Once I changed the mount the little clicks became more obvious. It's probably due to the tolerances of the aftermarket half-axles, but we learned to live with it once we found out the splines were most likely the culprit.
 
My 2012 Leaf had multiple clicks and thunks. Found play in the CV joints so I changed both half-axles with aftermarket parts, but the thunk remained. It turned out to be the rear motor mount, where the rubber was cracked and damaged. Once I changed the mount the little clicks became more obvious. It's probably due to the tolerances of the aftermarket half-axles, but we learned to live with it once we found out the splines were most likely the culprit.
You can also get little "clicks" from the brake pads as they shift from unloaded to loaded in the calipers. You can isolate one from the other in that a brake click will not usually occur if you accelerate from a stop...only when you change direction and apply the brakes. CV axle click would normally show up if you're accelerating or regen is active with no braking applied. You'd definitely want ePedal off when trying to figure out which is which!

For whatever reason, there are about zero aftermarket joints/axle assemblies for the right side, 2018 and up...just used. I just dropped $900 CAD for the right side axle assembly from the dealer. :-(
 
Here is a video where a tesla front and rear bearing is examined, and one is cut in half. Many Tesla owners complain of the same click and the "fix" is exactly the same as the LEAF TSB, including the Molykote M77 application to the rear of the hub/axle contact area. The LEAF uses the same kind of bearing, suggesting that you can likely do a final torque of the wheel nut with the tire on and weighted (center cap removed). The axle is not bearing on either of the bearing races, as you would find in an older FWD hub. This means that the axle nut torque has very little to do with bearing preload.

 
the washer is part of the standard axle nut assembly using the castellated cap/cotter pin.
Excellent point about the washer, i think I will leave it off (again, mine is 2018 with staked nut)
EDIT - the Tesla comparison bearing stuff is very interesting!
 
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This means that the axle nut torque has very little to do with bearing preload.
This is what I gleaned from everything that I could find. As if the axle is always moving and without grease it takes some force for it to release causing a click. With grease it's free to move without the click. My hunch is there is still movement and some subtle noise that we just can't hear is present. What bothered me is that both my axles starting clicking within a couple of weeks of each other. I found it odd that the grease would seem to disappear at the same time.
 
Here's the next question - washer, or not?

The tech bulletin says

"For 370Z, LEAF, NV200, and 2013-2019 Sentra vehicles: Install the washer listed in the PARTS INFORMATION before installing the new Lock Nut."

So my mind says OK, any Leaf year gets the washer. They specify certain years for the Sentra, but for the others it must be all years.

I'm asking because I don't see many people mentioning that they added the washer. It's a Belleville washer (curved, not flat) and everything I've found says the blue side faces the axle (i.e. concave side IN towards car)
Mine is a 2015 and did not have the washer, and it doesn't appear in the parts diagram either. I read it the same way as you so decided to add the washer, and had no problems so far. I did have to torque one side slightly higher than the spec in the TSB to get the cotter pin through.

1722028450692.png
 
This is what I gleaned from everything that I could find. As if the axle is always moving and without grease it takes some force for it to release causing a click. With grease it's free to move without the click. My hunch is there is still movement and some subtle noise that we just can't hear is present. What bothered me is that both my axles starting clicking within a couple of weeks of each other. I found it odd that the grease would seem to disappear at the same time.
There should be no play at all in the splines, so greasing them (if loose) would fill the gap (quiet) until the grease was pushed out and the click returned. Both my OE axles pushed right out by hand..and they should not. A wooden drift or axle puller should be required to remove them. I would apply the moly to the inside bearing surface only and torque to 134 ft/lbs.

I’m getting ready set to shoot a few vids of the right side shaft replacement, left side CV repack, reduction gear oil change and a review of the whole click situation with both old and new parts in hand.
 
Here's the next question - washer, or not?

The tech bulletin says

"For 370Z, LEAF, NV200, and 2013-2019 Sentra vehicles: Install the washer listed in the PARTS INFORMATION before installing the new Lock Nut."

So my mind says OK, any Leaf year gets the washer. They specify certain years for the Sentra, but for the others it must be all years.

I'm asking because I don't see many people mentioning that they added the washer. It's a Belleville washer (curved, not flat) and everything I've found says the blue side faces the axle (i.e. concave side IN towards car)
I looked over the TSB closely, again, and I’m thinking the Belleville washer ( 40037-1CAOA) looks to be part of the “fix” for all years. It’s used in several other Nissan vehicles in the same way. It makes sense as installed correctly, it would add pressure to the hub housing and likely help limit axle movement if the splines are loose. Correct orientation would have the washer oriented so the outside edges are touching the hub housing…then the nut would compress the center portion of the washer flat. No idea what the washer’s spring rate is, but it’s likely in the 1000s of lbs.

That said, the splines should not be loose in the first place, but I would add that washer if you are addressing a click.
 
I'll post up a video but here's what I found with my 2018 OE axle splines and hub. Both are removed from the car.

1. The OE parts have quite a bit of play. The axle splines have maybe 1/2 to 1 degree of rotational play in the hub, just checking by hand. It's enough to generate a good click. An axle nut at 90 ft/lbs is likely not going to stop this completely, perhaps better at the 2019 and later spec, 128 ft/lbs.

2. A new 2018 LEAF axle and Timken hub/bearing assembly (I have two, and they fit the same) is definitely an interference fit with about 3/4" of an inch to go to a fullly seated axle/hub setup. The nut needs to be torqued to pull this assembly together. The old axle and new hub/bearing still has some rotational play, but less.

WIth the parts in hand, I can't see how the TSB resolves this at all..it just makes it quieter. If you grease the splines, again it will be quieter for a while. I shot some video so will post it once edited etc.
 
I can't see how the TSB resolves this at all.
I've stated my hunch in post #72. I'm so sure of it because I could make one side click or both click. I had it down what it took to cause it. I could start moving and then punch it a little and still cause it. It needs the force to break the "sticktion" which causes the click. My axle nuts were plenty tight coming off and I put them back a little above spec but I think that torque has nothing to do with it. As with everyone else it's just a lot of speculation. It might be if the torque were much lower that it's just always free to move and the click goes away. I wasn't willing to try that experiment!
 
Just lower your axle wheel but to say 60 ft/lbs and go for a drive. The wheel bearings are preloaded by the roll formed flange at the rear of the hub/bearing assembly, so damaging them will not be an issue. As long as there is axial play between the splines, the click thing will happen, and it will likely decrease in severity as axle nut torque is increased.

Consider that the Tesla axle nut torque is in the 220 ft/lb range…similar to what the electric motor at each end of the car is twisting that axle at. The bearings they use are quite similar to the LEAF….
 
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