lorenfb wrote:Can't help with a Consult III diagnostic tool, but I'm sure you have access to one to re-flash the battery ECU and register the replacement battery, right?
Stoaty will keep his original BMS as nobody outside of Nissan has access to their tools and even then, without paperwork from Nissan, including a special key string for the new battery, it probably can't be registered anyway (that is how I understand the procedure as explained by the Nissan Dealer).
So, the only option is to actually open the battery shell, remove the worn modules and place fresh modules back.
Since the BMS wiring on newer batteries is different from the old (2011/2012), the only way to use the old BMS that is coded to the car and not blow it, is to also swap the BMS wiring from the old modules onto the new modules. Not a difficult job, but a bit tedious as this involves unbolting about 200 screws and after swapping the wiring, securely fastening each one again.
Another bit of extra work is that the other stuff in the battery shell (service disconnect, high voltage relay module and even a torque bar that straddles the modules is in the way of easy unbolting the modules, so in essence everything has to come out, down to a bare battery shell and then it needs to be re-built with the new modules, old wiring and the original disconnect, relay module and strengthening bar, the temperature sensors need to be plugged into the modules again. The wiring support brackets that are not in the right place for the bolts on the new modules need to be moved to support the wiring from flopping around, chafing through and short circuiting the battery - a lot of details to get right and then to close the box and making sure it is water-proof again or it might cause a fatal problem like the Leaf that I helped strip of the few still usable parts after the battery caught fire due to rain water immersion inside. (Yep, fire caused by water).
Oh and don't forget the Security Torx bolts in the Emergency Disconnect.
Luckily during the process we don't need to deal with the fact that the 2013+ shells are glued shut, because I will deal with that in advance when the new battery arrives at my place, so I can gut that shell and load the modules in my Prius for the drive to LA.
Hope this gives an idea of what is involved.
BTW, if it was just the swap of the complete battery then no high voltage gloves are needed. There is no high voltage anywhere as long as you unplug the control connector first, because the relay coils are powered via the control connector. Unplug that and the high voltage cable is perfectly safe - only inside the battery shell are the modules "always on".