The heaters only use about 300 watts, so they just aren't suited to warming the battery to a better operating temp. They can only stop the pack from "freezing."
BrockWI said:I thought I read somewhere you could alter the thermostat to trick the car in to thinking it was colder than it was, say by 10F or 20F, but it would be nice to have it come on for say 2 hours while charging to warm the pack up. I know charging warms it a bit, but then I am lucky to see 3 bars instead of 2. Starting out at 4 bars would be nice
I know there was a thread with someone using oil pan heaters to warm the pack up.
LeftieBiker said:The heaters only use about 300 watts, so they just aren't suited to warming the battery to a better operating temp. They can only stop the pack from "freezing."
As scathing an indictment of the pack's poor cooling as I could imagine. What's needed is a way to *defeat* that kind of thermal insulation during the summer.arnis said:300W is more than enough to heat the battery way above ambient. It just takes hours instead of minutes.
What kind of pack cooling problems have you experienced in Portland, OR?Levenkay said:As scathing an indictment of the pack's poor cooling as I could imagine. What's needed is a way to *defeat* that kind of thermal insulation during the summer.
Hitting 9 temperature bars (about 5 bars of "rise") during a multiple-QC journey from Bellingham to Portland in mid-40 degree F weather. I haven't bothered to chase down exact numbers, but isn't that about a 50 or 60 degree difference between the pack and a highway-speed airflow? I have to believe that even a modest forced-circulation liquid heat exchange system would get the heat out with way less temperature drop, and still let the pack stay insulated in cold environments (just don't run the circulation pump in that case).Dooglas said:What kind of pack cooling problems have you experienced in Portland, OR?Levenkay said:As scathing an indictment of the pack's poor cooling as I could imagine. What's needed is a way to *defeat* that kind of thermal insulation during the summer.
arnis said:9 temperature bars very "temporarily" is absolutely fine. Don't worry.
Just don't do this every week for years.
This is sure hard for me to understand. I have driven a Leaf as my primary vehicle in the Pacific NW for the past 5 years, including numerous trips on I-5. I don't recall ever seeing above 6 temperature bars. With air temperatures in the mid-40s, it is difficult to comprehend why passive cooling while underway wouldn't do any cooling job that needed to be done.Levenkay said:Hitting 9 temperature bars (about 5 bars of "rise") during a multiple-QC journey from Bellingham to Portland in mid-40 degree F weather. I haven't bothered to chase down exact numbers, but isn't that about a 50 or 60 degree difference between the pack and a highway-speed airflow? I have to believe that even a modest forced-circulation liquid heat exchange system would get the heat out with way less temperature drop, and still let the pack stay insulated in cold environments (just don't run the circulation pump in that case).
This is sure hard for me to understand. I have driven a Leaf as my primary vehicle in the Pacific NW for the past 5 years, including numerous trips on I-5. I don't recall ever seeing above 6 temperature bars. With air temperatures in the mid-40s, it is difficult to comprehend why passive cooling while underway wouldn't do any cooling job that needed to be done.
Yes, I understand that passive cooling will not be as efficient at low speeds or when the vehicle is parked. A drive between Bellingham and Portland would not, however, involve short driving times and typically would be conducted at speeds of 50-70 mph with the possible exception of congestion around Seattle or Tacoma. And all this at air temperatures in the mid-40s?LeftieBiker said:Low speeds and/or short driving times. The pack has a lot of mass compared to the passive cooling's ability to move heat.
Dooglas said:Yes, I understand that passive cooling will not be as efficient at low speeds or when the vehicle is parked. A drive between Bellingham and Portland would not, however, involve short driving times and typically would be conducted at speeds of 50-70 mph with the possible exception of congestion around Seattle or Tacoma. And all this at air temperatures in the mid-40s?LeftieBiker said:Low speeds and/or short driving times. The pack has a lot of mass compared to the passive cooling's ability to move heat.
Nissan to increase range did a lot of wind tunnel testing which resulted in most the undercarriage being covered to lower air friction and that means the battery pack is exposed to little moving air.
LeftieBiker said:Nissan to increase range did a lot of wind tunnel testing which resulted in most the undercarriage being covered to lower air friction and that means the battery pack is exposed to little moving air.
It's my understanding that there is an air passage running the length of the car, from an intake in the nose to an exhaust opening in the tail. This allows significant cooling when the car is moving, but virtually none when it is stopped.
Unfortunate as the 24Kwh Nissan eNV-200(and possibly other Kwh's) has air cooling when charging, at least QC'ing. I saw a video of a guy driving one all over Norway and he was so excited it had cooling when charging, coming from a Leaf that didn't have that feature. Odd Nissan did that for the NV but not Leaf :? I really wish we could get the eNV-200 here, passenger version with a 40'ish kwh battery would be real sweetLeftieBiker said:Nissan to increase range did a lot of wind tunnel testing which resulted in most the undercarriage being covered to lower air friction and that means the battery pack is exposed to little moving air.
It's my understanding that there is an air passage running the length of the car, from an intake in the nose to an exhaust opening in the tail. This allows significant cooling when the car is moving, but virtually none when it is stopped.
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