Will be very interesting if they can get something UL certified that is truly plug and play.hodad66 said:Plug-n-Play Solar Panels.....
Will be very interesting if they can get something UL certified that is truly plug and play.hodad66 said:Plug-n-Play Solar Panels.....
i went with 5.16kw because I got the full SRP rebate of $13,500 at the time.leaffan said:I've decided to go with a 4.1KW instead of a 3.1. It is only $1300 more and has a payback of only 5 years. My net cost per watt will be $1.58. We're going to be a guinea pig for those new Honeywell AC panels.
leaffan said:I've decided to go with a 4.1KW instead of a 3.1. It is only $1300 more and has a payback of only 5 years. My net cost per watt will be $1.58. We're going to be a guinea pig for those new Honeywell AC panels.
garygid said:Since you are getting such a SPLENDID price, and will be charging an EV, I suggest you consider an even larger system, up to perhaps 7kW, depending upon your usage.
Consider generating a surplus, even after LEAF-charging. This year is requiring more A/C, since it is hotter (100 today) and I am home more.
garygid said:OK, I understand the panels and inverters are expensive.
Then, consider laying out the larger system, and having the mounting rails, conduit, junction boxes, and wiring put in for your "goal" system. Then, adding panels can be relatively easy as money becomes available.
But, without the extra rails and wiring in place, there is "considerable" overhead to adding on. The extra labor and material costs now should not add much real cost to the job.
Drawing up, submitting, getting permit, ordering, transporting, and receiving materials, scheduling and getting labor to the site are almost "included" in the first job. Trying to pull extra wires down an already "too-full" conduit is often difficult, and aditional conduit and junction boxes are needed. Well, enough said.
Whatever you do, you will enjoy seeing the PU meter "spin" backwards!
leaffan said:garygid said:OK, I understand the panels and inverters are expensive.
Then, consider laying out the larger system, and having the mounting rails, conduit, junction boxes, and wiring put in for your "goal" system. Then, adding panels can be relatively easy as money becomes available.
But, without the extra rails and wiring in place, there is "considerable" overhead to adding on. The extra labor and material costs now should not add much real cost to the job.
Drawing up, submitting, getting permit, ordering, transporting, and receiving materials, scheduling and getting labor to the site are almost "included" in the first job. Trying to pull extra wires down an already "too-full" conduit is often difficult, and aditional conduit and junction boxes are needed. Well, enough said.
Whatever you do, you will enjoy seeing the PU meter "spin" backwards!
Thanks Gary! That's a good idea. I'll ask him about that today.
GeorgeParrott said:Getting an inverter with extra/reserve capacity is MOST important if you have any possibility of needing more panels. However simply adding panels to a prior inverter install MIGHT not be eligible for the rebates and tax credits. MIGHT is operative here.
We had a 3.7 kW Sunpower sysem of 18 panels installed in August of 2007; it wiped out ALL of our monthly electricity use cost, BUT in planning to "go EV" in late 2010, I added a SECOND system of 7 more panels and a second inverter (Because the first inverter had NO capacity for more than a couple of additional panels). We now have about 5.5 kW raw and about 5.1 kW AC capacity which this past year has given us a cash credit with PG&E of around $450. Even with charging two EV cars (We are getting BOTH the LEAF and the VOLT), it appears we will still have "cash credit" with our utility company at the end of each billing year.
This is because EV charging, done between midnight and 7 am, can be "time of day" metered under PG&E special EV rates at between 5 cents to at most 6.4 cents per kW. Our solar panels generate max EXCESS output during "peak day rates" and thus produce credits of around 31 cents per excess kW. At this time of year, we are producing about 20-22 kW EXCESS every day and this is mostly at the 31 cent payback rate. Even charging 20 kw per night at 5 cents/kw....Solar panel homeowners are WAY ahead.
NOTE: We also have a solar hot water system which reduces our annual gas bill from PG&E to about $300 max for the WHOLE YEAR.
garygid said:However, handling variable shading is probably their biggest advantage. Also, adding-on smaller sections is a lot easier.
garygid said:Sorry, each micro-inverter IS a DC to AC inverter, though often a few percent less efficient that a "big" inverter.
However, handling variable shading is probably their biggest advantage. Also, adding-on smaller sections is a lot easier.
leaffan said:garygid said:Sorry, each micro-inverter IS a DC to AC inverter, though often a few percent less efficient that a "big" inverter.
However, handling variable shading is probably their biggest advantage. Also, adding-on smaller sections is a lot easier.
There's no DC wiring so I would think they would be more efficient than the panels that use DC wiring all the way to the box. According to the company, this is the ONLY solar panel that doesn't use DC wiring. All the others that have micro-inverters, still have to use DC wiring to the box, so that would lose some efficiency.
AndyH said:leaffan said:garygid said:Sorry, each micro-inverter IS a DC to AC inverter, though often a few percent less efficient that a "big" inverter.
However, handling variable shading is probably their biggest advantage. Also, adding-on smaller sections is a lot easier.
There's no DC wiring so I would think they would be more efficient than the panels that use DC wiring all the way to the box. According to the company, this is the ONLY solar panel that doesn't use DC wiring. All the others that have micro-inverters, still have to use DC wiring to the box, so that would lose some efficiency.
Sorry...solar inverters output AC.
I used to have a small array with Trace microSine (OK4U) micro-inverters - same thing. The panel makes DC, the inverter converts to AC, synchronizes with the grid, and handles 'anti islanding'.
Here's a recent article on micro inverters with more info:
http://www.absoluteefficiency.com/LEAF/micro.pdf
Andy
Photovoltaic cells are direct current devices. They don't conduct electricity backward and cannot create alternating current on their own.leaffan said:The micro-inverters are on the back of the panels so no DC loss.
Due to the special composition of solar cells, the electrons are only allowed to move in a single direction.
Honeywell Solar SmartGrids use AC solar modules that are coupled with a micro-inverter mounted on the underside of the solar panel, which converts DC to AC power. This next generation design eliminates the need for expensive DC wiring components, centralized power inverters and the complex nature of designing and installing DC solar power arrays.
mitch672 said:Yes, AndyH, the only difference here is, the microinverters are PART of the panel, in the case of Honeywell. It is not a seperate component, and is integrated into the panel during manufacturing. So, there is no DC wiring to deal with, at all.
http://www.honeywellsolarpower.com/products/12345
Standard DC string voltages can reach up to 600VDC.
These micro inverters sound great and having them built into the panel at the factory sounds like a fantastic idea!leaffan said:We're going to be a guinea pig for those new Honeywell AC panels.
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