Your top tips and tricks for new LEAF owners

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Randy said:
In California, you will need a copy of the DMV registration to claim your $5K rebate. It will be easier if you get that copy while at the dealership instead of having to take the registration off the window and copy it and then put it back on. As long as you're at it, it would also be easier for them to produce a xerox copy of your sales contract as well, since it is usually about 36" long (or so it seems).... :)

No one can answer this firmly at Nissan. Is it a 5K rebate or tax deduction?

Anyone know?
 
SRBast said:
Thank you. You're the first person who was able to answer me clearly!


It is clearly outlined on the Center for Energy website, it has no affiliation with Nissan, Same for the IRS tax credit which is why they are unable to answer.
 
Here is the link to CCSE for the rebate program...

https://energycenter.org/index.php/incentive-programs/clean-vehicle-rebate-project/cvrp-eligible-vehicles
 
You can increase your range by closely watching your regen meter and capture every bit. If you pin the regen meter, you're wasting energy. Brake too hard or too fast and you'll max out the regen. Timing is everything.
 
jcesare said:
You can increase your range by closely watching your regen meter and capture every bit. If you pin the regen meter, you're wasting energy. Brake too hard or too fast and you'll max out the regen. Timing is everything.

Agreed. Slow starts and slow braking are key to maximizing range in ECO. I set the LCD trip to Energy Economy and try to keep it in the 4-8 miles/kWh range. I also try to ensure the power meter never goes over 4.
 
regen is a net energy loss. better to have not used the extra power needed which is the same as gentle acceleration and perfecting traffic flow anticipation
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
regen is a net energy loss. better to have not used the extra power needed which is the same as gentle acceleration and perfecting traffic flow anticipation

Dave, are you saying that coasting in neutral (to a stoplight,etc.) is better than using regen with the LEAF? If so, then it is the same idea with the ICE because when I use the engine (D) to slow, it gives me around 100 mpg, but when in neutral, 200-300 mpg.
 
LEAFfan said:
DaveinOlyWA said:
regen is a net energy loss. better to have not used the extra power needed which is the same as gentle acceleration and perfecting traffic flow anticipation

Dave, are you saying that coasting in neutral (to a stoplight,etc.) is better than using regen with the LEAF? If so, then it is the same idea with the ICE because when I use the engine (D) to slow, it gives me around 100 mpg, but when in neutral, 200-300 mpg.

no, coasting in neutral is a personal choice and i do not do. what i am saying is regen is the measure of how much faster you are traveling for conditions or how poorly you are anticipating traffic flow and light timing.

the best way to drive is not faster than you need to or slower than you need to, its exactly as you need to.

put it on the energy screen and try this. when coming up to a light, try slowing down off the accelerator until you can see no energy on motor. this is the equivalent of glide.

this provides two potential benefits. no regen maintains your speed for a longer period. hopefully the light changes before you get there so you can ease back to acceleration. the less speed you lose, the less acceleration you need to regain speed.

now, some times stopping is unavoidable. in that case, you want to regen as long as possible but in a way that you do it at as low a rate as possible. this means having a good following distance for the extra gliding. the objective is being able to hit your brakes when you are going less than say 10 mph.

on my commute, its easy. i do have a very congested area where stopping at lights is unavoidable. there is simply too much traffic to clear the lights between cycles.

but i also have 4 traffic circles. they are easy to judge and the best part is the cooperation of fellow drivers on the road. we all kinda roll up to them slowly so it makes for perfect driving in Leaf. on the energy screen i am usually in the zero to 15 kwh range for power on motor.

as far as coasting in neutral to a light. that only works if you have several blocks to coast. what u do not want to do is use friction braking which gives you zero return. at least regen gives something back
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
put it on the energy screen and try this. when coming up to a light, try slowing down off the accelerator until you can see no energy on motor. this is the equivalent of glide.
Dave, So the Leaf DOES have the 'very light pressure on the accelerator' Prius glide? That would be welcome news indeed.

Glide is great. I have sections on my normal commute where I can glide anywhere from .5 to 1 mile. No gas, no electricity, no WASTE!, extended range. One of my common trips is 7 miles, it is 1/3 gas, 1/3 electric and 1/3 glide. This is at 50F and up. Less electric when it is cold, the Prius NEEDs the new Ford/GM grille shutters, not for high speed drag, but for keeping the heat in the engine compartment.
 
bruceha2000 said:
Dave, So the Leaf DOES have the 'very light pressure on the accelerator' Prius glide? That would be welcome news indeed.

it has an energy screen that shows what is using power including traction motor and yes, it can "glide". which is simply the delta between power to the motor and power regen back to the batteries.

now the power is much easier to control in the Leaf since it essentially has only one drive mode so its not speed dependent like the Prius. i find the displays better for the Leaf than even the HSI on the Prius

as far as the new electronically controlled shutters, i asked the Chief Engineer for the 2010 Prius if they would ever implement something like that and got a flat "no" glad to see Ford doing it on the new 2012 Focus. i predict that to be a standard feature on cars within 3-4 years.
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
it has an energy screen that shows what is using power including traction motor and yes, it can "glide". which is simply the delta between power to the motor and power regen back to the batteries.

So say the speed limit on a street is 45 and you are going 45. You see the light is red a half mile or more ahead. To glide, would you just slightly release the accelerator to reach the delta? And that's better than regen?
With my ScanGauge II, with a slight lifting of the gas (Corolla) pedal, I can increase my mpg to 50-60 from 20's and still maintain the same speed.
 
I think a glide on the LEAF would be when you keep the power bubbles on the dash on the first dot, right in between power and regen. Or, if you're looking at the energy screen on the center console, as close to 0Kw usage as you can get. The mechanics of it are undoubtedly different than on a Prius, but the concepts are the same.
 
LEAFfan said:
And that's better than regen?
Glide is DEFINITELY better than regen.
For all the greatness of regen:
1) Recovering SOME kinetic energy, which you PAID for getting to speed in the first place when you push on the brake pedal.
2) You get 'free' energy in the battery if you NEED to slow down, like going down a hill

It has inherent problems:
1) You slow down. Slowing down is BAD because you have to pay to speed up again. You will slow much faster than if you use glide, ticking off the people behind you. If you regen, you will have to use power longer to get to the point that regen will stop you at the red light.
2) There are losses storing power in the battery and getting it back out. I *THINK* the Prius efficiency is 80% EACH way so if you generate 100W you only get 64W back at the electric motor to use.

With glide, you slow much less quickly. In a Prius, on even relatively gentle down slopes, you can MAINTAIN speed. Depending on the terrain you will definitely get more distance a zero cost than what you will get with the watts you store doing regen on the same slope.
 
bruceha2000 said:
Glide is DEFINITELY better than regen.
For all the greatness of regen:
1) Recovering SOME kinetic energy, which you PAID for getting to speed in the first place when you push on the brake pedal.
2) You get 'free' energy in the battery if you NEED to slow down, like going down a hill
It has inherent problems:
1) You slow down. Slowing down is BAD because you have to pay to speed up again. You will slow much faster than if you use glide, ticking off the people behind you. If you regen, you will have to use power longer to get to the point that regen will stop you at the red light.
2) There are losses storing power in the battery and getting it back out. I *THINK* the Prius efficiency is 80% EACH way so if you generate 100W you only get 64W back at the electric motor to use.
With glide, you slow much less quickly. In a Prius, on even relatively gentle down slopes, you can MAINTAIN speed. Depending on the terrain you will definitely get more distance a zero cost than what you will get with the watts you store doing regen on the same slope.

Thanks bruce! That was a great explanation.
 
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