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Here is the Link to the Center for Sustainable Energy website...They are managing the rebate process.

https://energycenter.org/index.php/incentive-programs/clean-vehicle-rebate-project/cvrp-eligible-vehicles

After you pick up your vehicle, go to the above website and apply for your rebate. Assuming that funding is still available, they will accept your application and send you an email which will tell you how to send in the other required materials (sales/lease contract, DMV registration, and proof of residency). You can send those materials in or drop them off at CCSE on Balboa Ave in San Diego. Then they'll send you a rebate check in about 3-4 weeks (assuming that funds are available).

If funds are out for this year, then they'll take your materials and put you on a waiting list for future funding. Keep in mind that it may be $2500 for next year's funding.

That's the big picture. Please see the CCSE website for more information....

Randy
 
Randy said:
You can send those materials in or drop them off at CCSE on Balboa Ave in San Diego.

I sent mine by certified mail and they received it the next day. The Post Office still does some things right.
 
jcesare said:
I sent mine by certified mail and they received it the next day. The Post Office still does some things right.

There is definitely some variation (whether due to location or timing, I cannot say), but just for another data point:
I sent in my paperwork by certified mail the day I took possession of the Leaf (April 22nd), and it took about a week before I got back the return receipt. It was slightly under 3 weeks passed that that I received the check. But all in all, a one month turn around for a $5,000 rebate check seems pretty good! (especially considering the DMV cashed my check for plates 3 months ago and I still haven't heard diddly from them yet!)
 
A couple of hints for the Navigation system... I often use it just to see the XM traffic information, so...

1) I've found it much easier to see that and other information using the night time color scheme during the day. This places the roads and colored speed bands on a black background which is much easier to read.
To do this, simply go to the color scheme screen and you can select the "night" scheme for daylight use as well as night. Then set the brightness where you like for daytime (use the day/night button at the bottom left of the screen) and you will have the same dark background for both day and night, with different brightnesses for each.

2) I like having the screen on a wide range to see the big picture and long range traffic info, but also like to see a closeup version that shows all the roads immediately around me... You can have both on the same screen. Go to the View Mode screen in the Nav Menu and select side by side split 2D. Then set the range on the left screen to 1 or 2 miles and the range on the right screen to 1/8 mile. Now you have the best of both worlds and can actually put that widescreen display to some use...

Tom
 
Two tips to speed through voice recognition:

1) You can go directly to sub-level menus by simply turning on Direct Command Mode in Menu - Settings - Voice Recognition. For example, press the Talk button and say "Vehicle Phonebook" without all the other levels in between.

2) Interrupt Miss Roboto! Hit the Talk button and it immediately cuts her off and waits for your input. Couple this with #1 and I can start dialling in just a few seconds.

Some phones have better shortcuts, but this is great for hands-free.
 
Without a doubt, installing a light in the charge port was the best update I've done to the car. It's a bit dark in the parking garage at work but also convenient when using a public charger at night. I found the suggestion on this forum, thanks to whomever that was. I ordered from Lowe's online, but probably would have been best to get it direct from Sylvania. http://www.sylvaniaonlinestore.com/p-122-led-motion-sensor-light.aspx It's model number 72245. The key to this light is its magnetic base. The little self adhesive magnet it comes with is intended to be stuck on something, then the light attaches to the magnet. For the LEAF it's best to stick the self adhesive part to the light itself. The magnet will then hold the light firmly in place inside the metal charge port door and you can simply pull it off whenever you want.
 
Thanks for the pointer. I thought I was going to want one of these, and couldn't find it at our closest Lowes store. But the truth is, I have now gotten good enough at plugging in that I think I could do it with my eyes closed. (Well, except that I do always watch for the three lights cycling to be sure that timer charging is ready to go,)

Ray
 
Randy said:
If you find yourself on a steep hill and are concerned that the parking brake may not hold the car, you can click the parking brake twice to increase the parking brake force.

Randy, are you describing the "P" button on shifter knob or the lever close to the armrest storage? And is the increase in parking brake force documented in the user guide?
Thx.
 
I've had a habit of putting the car to "park" before I turn the engine off. Which means I would hit the "P" button on the shifter before turning off the Leaf.

Though now days I've skipped that step and hit the power button right after parking the car. Saves a second and also unlocks the door quicker for the passengers.

Thought it might be useful for those who are used to the same shutdown process from driving gas cars. :)
 
The P button on the shifter is "Park Mode", which essentially "jams" the transmission gears to keep the car from rolling on relatively level ground.

The "Parking Brake" is activated using the wide lever-switch just in front of the center console storage unit. A quick pull up causes an electric motor (under the cargo area) to run and tighten cables that go to the rear DRUM brakes, to hold the car on an incline. Yes, your car has BOTH rear drum and rear disc brakes.

I have not verified that pulling the lever up a 2nd time will increase the cable tension to "apply" the drum brakes more strongly. Has anybody else?

In any parking situation involving a significant incline, one should position the car and wheels/tires such that brake failure will not be catastrophic.
 
garygid said:
The "Parking Brake" is activated using the wide lever-switch just in front of the center console storage unit. A quick pull up causes an electric motor (under the cargo area) to run and tighten cables that go to the rear DRUM brakes, to hold the car on an incline. Yes, your car has BOTH rear drum and rear disc brakes.

I have not verified that pulling the lever up a 2nd time will increase the cable tension to "apply" the drum brakes more strongly. Has anybody else?
I haven't verified it, but here is what the Owner's Manual says on page 5-16:
Pull up on the electric parking brake switch twice so that the maximum electric parking brake force can be applied to the vehicle.
Ray
 
Lanzer said:
I've had a habit of putting the car to "park" before I turn the engine off. Which means I would hit the "P" button on the shifter before turning off the Leaf.

That's exactly what it says to do in the Owner's Manual;same as in an ICE car.
 
For the cruise control, I have noticed that 1 short flick of the switch raises or lowers your speed by 1 MPH. I like to cruise with only 1 additional power dot showing, so I will set the cruise control at 61, let the speed settle down, then do a quick flick of the switch downward, which gets me to 60 MPH and 1 power dot. Doing this, I comfortably achieve 7 miles/SOC bar.
 
My wife forgot how to put it in park the other day (her second time driving it) and later asked me how. I showed her again. Then she asked if it went into park by itself when the power was cut, since she recalled that it was in park and the brake set when she came out from the grocery store. So we tested it. I turned the car on, released the parking brake, then turned off the power without hitting P or pulling up on the parking brake. When we turned it back on the car was in P and the red parking brake light was on. I didn't push the car to test to see if it really was on, but it appears to put itself in park and set the brake when you cut power. I wouldn't rely on that though.
 
The guy at the car wash wouldn't let me in until i verified i knew how to put my Leaf in neutral. He said earlier in the day they had to back up a couple cars to let a Leaf back out. The Leaf owner did not know how to select Neutral to go through! :oops:
 
gascant said:
For the cruise control, I have noticed that 1 short flick of the switch raises or lowers your speed by 1 MPH. I like to cruise with only 1 additional power dot showing, so I will set the cruise control at 61, let the speed settle down, then do a quick flick of the switch downward, which gets me to 60 MPH and 1 power dot. Doing this, I comfortably achieve 7 miles/SOC bar.

I, on the other hand, like to cruise with the neutral power dot, but rarely use the freeways. So if the speed limit is 45, I just take it to 46 (if traffic is behind me), push down quickly on the CC switch, and it goes into neutral at 45. This allows me to hit 6+m/Kwh and 8+m/bar.
 
Here's one that isn't in the owners manual and when you see it you'll understand why. I use the energy screen that has the three separate read outs for electric motor, climate control, and other systems. I put the car in ECO mode and then while I am stopping I keep one eye on traffic and the other on the electric motor read out. I then use the brake pedal at just the right amount of pressure so that as I'm slowing I try to keep the maximum regeneration until the car is going so slow it has to reduce the regen. If you apply the brakes just right and get used to the distance that you have to start applying the brakes you can maximize the regen. However, I'm not suggesting this to anyone that has even a remote chance of hitting the car ahead of them. It's kind of a multitasking exercise to literally concentrate on two things at once and not everyone can do it.
 
LEAFfan said:
I, on the other hand, like to cruise with the neutral power dot, but rarely use the freeways. So if the speed limit is 45, I just take it to 46 (if traffic is behind me), push down quickly on the CC switch, and it goes into neutral at 45. This allows me to hit 6+m/Kwh and 8+m/bar.
You keep on saying this - but you know that the bubbles have some hysteresis in them (like the battery bars do) so what you're doing is all in your head?

If you look at the energy monitor screen on the console, you'll see that you end up with the same power consumption regardless of how you get to 45 mph.
 
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