110v, level 1 charging question

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the brick is completely weather sealed. you could literally soak it in a bucket of water (dont do it!) the only issues you will have is any connections either from EVSE plugged into power; must be GCFI if 120 or rated outdoor if 240. or if using extension cords. there are several attachable covers that makes this connection weather tight. they run $15-30. if you plan to do the outdoor thing frequently, get one. it is pretty cheap insurance.

keep in mind, if anything happens it will be the power source that suffers. not likely to do any damage to the car, but how will your friend react when you treat his house that way?
 
My EVSE has been modified, so I forget if the plug is molded to the wire, but I think so. Use an extension cord with a molded receptacle and wrap it with fusion tape. Not cheap, but great stuff.

http://www.tessco.com/products/displayProductInfo.do?sku=83586" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
ebill3 said:
My EVSE has been modified, so I forget if the plug is molded to the wire, but I think so. Use an extension cord with a molded receptacle and wrap it with fusion tape. Not cheap, but great stuff.

http://www.tessco.com/products/displayProductInfo.do?sku=83586" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Phil's modded EVSE has been resealed. once again, the weak points are the plug. the brick is safe.
 
I have doubts the brick meets code to be operated under water. Out in the driving rain is probably fine. Keep the brick and all connections out of standing water and you have no worries.
 
Thanks for all the replies, everyone.

I would definitely consider just trying to reach the J-plug from the basement, so I can keep the extension cord connection indoors, but then I have to go down to the basement and unplug the EVSE whenever I want to take it with me somewhere (which, considering the sad state of public charging on Long Island, will be often!)...

I really like the idea about keeping it under the hood. I park in a public parking garage at work in Queens (in a not-so-great area), but there are 120v outlets all over the parking garage, (although only about 20% of them work...I've been testing them with my iPhone charger), so I could definitely try charging at work and securing the EVSE that way. I just need to look under my hood and see if I can duplicate what is shown in the photos. The EVSE is much bigger and heavier than I was expecting, and it's kind of difficult to maneuver it with the cord flying all over the place.

For now, I'll keep a look out for bad weather and make adjustments to my arrangement as necessary. I'm probably going to order the LeGrand Level 2 charger from Home Depot soon and have a friend install it. But right now L1 is actually working just fine for me..
 
smkettner said:
I have doubts the brick meets code to be operated under water. Out in the driving rain is probably fine. Keep the brick and all connections out of standing water and you have no worries.


No it can not be completely under water, that is "water proof" not "weather proof" or "weather resistant". No EVSE on the market today is "water proof". The cord on the modified EVSE is molded and sealed, more so than the factory cord that was on the unit.
 
I've been charging on 120 V L1 alone for almost 6 months. No problems. I charged twice at the Nissan dealership while I was there finishing up some paper work. But everything else is L1.

Reddy
 
The EVSE is rated NEMA 3R, which means it's Rain/Sleet/Snow RESISTANT. It is NOT "waterproof" and will likely not survive immersion.

The AC plug on the unit is not rated for exposure to water, so it must be kept dry.

Our upgrades are sealed even better than the original unit, as we use extra sealant and molded plugs, but they are still no where near "waterproof".

My recommendation: Occasional use in the rain is ok, but if it's going to live outside, you should obtain a NEMA 4 or better rated enclosure, and figure out how to keep the weather off the unit. You can buy NEMA rated enclosures with a lock and mount them to a wall or post somewhere and this will protect the unit from theft as well as weather.

Since you are playing with something that's going to cost more towards the kilobuck range to replace, do you really want to risk it?!?

-Phil
 
Oh and calling our wall voltage here in the US "110" is like calling Gasoline "Ethyl". It is properly 120 volts and has been for the better part of a century.

-Phil
 
Ingineer said:
Oh and calling our wall voltage here in the US "110" is like calling Gasoline "Ethyl". It is properly 120 volts and has been for the better part of a century.

-Phil

THANK YOU. I cringe every time I see someone say 110V in the US.
 
Officially, it is probably 120v "average" with
"plus zero, minus 10% (or 15%?) long-term tolerance",
and some extra latitude for short-term variations, right?
(or it used to be?)
 
garygid said:
Officially, it is probably 120v "average" with
"plus zero, minus 10% (or 15%?) long-term tolerance",
and some extra latitude for short-term variations, right?
(or it used to be?)

waaaay back in the day, i seem to remember a lot of products rated at 115 volts?

but either way, i made a habit of measuring my voltage from the wall when i bought my Zenn. it was rarely below 120. up to 122 volts was common. could be a cheap meter but it was "supposed" to be pretty accurate
 
garygid said:
Officially, it is probably 120v "average" with
"plus zero, minus 10% (or 15%?) long-term tolerance",
and some extra latitude for short-term variations, right?
(or it used to be?)

It should typically be in a +/- 5% tolerance (114V to 126V). In most of the buildings I've worked in, you'll see 119v up to 121v. The original point still stands; the standard is 120v, NOT 110v as many people (incorrectly) say.
 
I seem to recall in a discussion about incandescent bulbs burning out rapidly, that utilities will sometimes pad the voltage to the high side to squeeze a bit more capacity out of their grid -- or am I imagining this?
 

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