2014 Axle Nut Torque and Washer Orientation

[dsevier]

Hi There! I am getting my ducks in a row to do the axle click on our 2014 and see that there differing opinions on the axle nut torque. I have the technical service manuals downloaded from the nico website and see they have a revision date of May 2014. They spec a torque of 95 ft-lbs/130 N-m. One poster suggested the correct torque was 135 ft-lb. Has any done the service bulletin using 95 ft-lb and had good luck.

Secondly, I could not find in the service manual which way to orient the belleville type spring washer. Is it put on such that the nut contacts the ID first or the OD. I suspect the latter but better to ask first. Thanks!

 

[erco]

Not one reply in over 2 months? Come on, guys, please do better.

I have the same question on my 2014. The Nissan dealer mechanic was useless.

 

[aqn]

There has been no responses for you is probably because a tiny percentage of readers of these forums have ever removed their LEAF's axle nut. Replacing the 12V battery is probably most people's level of DIY knowledge and skill .

The service manual for my 2011 (rev. June 2014, downloaded from nicoclub.com) sez 133 - 136 ft-lbs (page FAX-12) for the "the wheel hub lock nut". That's the torque figure I used. Where did you see 95 ft-lbs for the "axle nut"? There are no mentions of "axle nut" in the manual.

Here are two pics I took of the washer when I was disassembling things to replace the wheel hub:

 

[hradek]

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10199148-0001.pdf

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10199148-0001.pdf

There has been no responses for you is probably because a tiny percentage of readers of these forums have ever removed their LEAF's axle nut. Replacing the 12V battery is probably most people's level of DIY knowledge and skill .

The service manual for my 2011 (rev. June 2014, downloaded from nicoclub.com) sez 133 - 136 ft-lbs (page FAX-12) for the "the wheel hub lock nut". That's the torque figure I used. Where did you see 95 ft-lbs for the "axle nut"? There are no mentions of "axle nut" in the manual.

Here are two pics I took of the washer when I was disassembling things to replace the wheel hub:

View attachment 3628 View attachment 3629

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10199148-0001.pdf

 

[Cameron]

Hi There! I am getting my ducks in a row to do the axle click on our 2014 and see that there differing opinions on the axle nut torque. I have the technical service manuals downloaded from the nico website and see they have a revision date of May 2014. They spec a torque of 95 ft-lbs/130 N-m. One poster suggested the correct torque was 135 ft-lb. Has any done the service bulletin using 95 ft-lb and had good luck.

Secondly, I could not find in the service manual which way to orient the belleville type spring washer. Is it put on such that the nut contacts the ID first or the OD. I suspect the latter but better to ask first. Thanks!

Hi Dseiver from the land downunder. As you all know, Nissan had a worldwide problem with CV nuts not being tight enough, which leads to CV clicking. It's an issue across many models and years of Nissan. The tech specs are all different for diff vehicles/models/years. You can be assured that you can tighten those nuts up very tight! The hub bearing won't be damaged by being crushed. You may need a special torque wrench to achieve tension that high? Can you borrow from a mate? Do you need a domed washer? Is a shakeproof washer as good? We all know we need plenty of grease in there, which seems counter-intuitive in a loose nut situation. I've decided after plenty of deliberation and experimentation and discussion with very experienced mechanics, that I'll use a shake proof washer with great on splines, rear of hub and nut tension around 150ft/lbs or around 200 Nm

 

[aqn]

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10199148-0001.pdf

Thanks.

It's interesting that the TSB seems very adamant about it applying to only 2013 LEAFs and that the torque specified for the wheel hub lock nut is only 89 ft-lb.

That TSB also says:
"Refer to the Electronic Service Manual (ESM) for model-specific torque specifications.
For 2007-2019 Versa and 2013 LEAF vehicles, see the Service Procedure torque specifications on page 3."

and on page 3, it says:

"IMPORTANT (for 2013 LEAF only):" (bolding and underlining is from the TSB, not mine).

 

[BillAinCT]

It's interesting that the TSB seems very adamant about it applying to only 2013 LEAFs. It's also interesting that the torque specified for the wheel hub lock nut is only 89 ft-lb.

I wanted to include the link to the later TSB that goes to MY 2023: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2022/MC-10222714-0001.pdf

I agree with @Cameron in that tighter is better (within reason). Keep the force higher than the torque that causes it to break the friction hold, which is the release and click. That Nissan TSB says "If the center Lock Nut is tightened more than 180 N•m (18.4 kg-m, 133 ft-lb), the clicking noise could occur." just makes no sense to me and I don't buy it. My theory is at 89 ft-lb may the spring washer makes a difference, or they are simply allowing the axle to move and there is not enough force to hold and have it release at the friction hold point and click.

I'm doing mine soon. I'll do the grease part too but I'm not convinced it has anything to do with the clicking and I'm going higher than 133 ft lb on each one differently and see which or both are fixed. Like 140 ft lb and 145 ft lb. I saw a video where the guy didn't stake the nut until he determined it was resolved. Interesting idea if it's not resolved to go a little tighter and try again. I can test right in front of my house. No need for a long drive.

 

[MikeinPA]

Hi Dseiver from the land downunder. As you all know, Nissan had a worldwide problem with CV nuts not being tight enough, which leads to CV clicking. It's an issue across many models and years of Nissan. The tech specs are all different for diff vehicles/models/years. You can be assured that you can tighten those nuts up very tight! The hub bearing won't be damaged by being crushed. You may need a special torque wrench to achieve tension that high? Can you borrow from a mate? Do you need a domed washer? Is a shakeproof washer as good? We all know we need plenty of grease in there, which seems counter-intuitive in a loose nut situation. I've decided after plenty of deliberation and experimentation and discussion with very experienced mechanics, that I'll use a shake proof washer with great on splines, rear of hub and nut tension around 150ft/lbs or around 200 Nm

"You can be assured that you can tighten those nuts up very tight! The hub bearing won't be damaged by being crushed"

I had the left front bearing fail a few years back. The nut was on very tight (from the factory or the dealer)--I had 5 foot of extension and a floor jack under the extension to get that nut off--easily in the 500 ft lb torque range to remove. I believe the overtightened nut compressed the hub assembly sufficiently to compress the outer bearing race and cause failure. Just my belief.

Yes, that is very interesting about the TSB and the 2013 specification.