Broken 120V Charger

[jdc]

My 120V charger, supplied with 2012 Nissan Leaf, is failing to charge the car. When is plugged into the car and then plugged into the 120V wall socket, I can hear the internal relay click and clack. Sometimes it will begin the charge, amber charge light is lit, and the often it will not. If I shake the charger (brick) I can get the relay to lock in place and begin a charge. It will now often drop the charging state and turn off.

Is my best route to attempt to fix the internal relay? Or to just buy a new charger?

Thanks

John

 

[Levenkay]

I can't speak to your exact symptoms, but I can say that you're making the connections in the wrong order. Plug the EVSE (what you're mistakenly calling a 'charger') in to an electrical outlet FIRST, and then shove its J1772 connector into your car's charging port.

 

[jdc]

A very logical suggestion. I have tried it both orders. Car first and then wall. Wall first and then car. Same clicking of the relay that may or may not catch. Also tried different circuits in the house and at the office. Same problem. Thanks.

 

[LeftieBiker]

When the problem recurs with multiple outlets/circuits, the next step is to test the car with another EVSE, including public stations. If the car passes the test, it's usually the EVSE, aka Charging Cable.

 

[cwerdna]

When the problem recurs with multiple outlets/circuits, the next step is to test the car with another EVSE, including public stations. If the car passes the test, it's usually the EVSE, aka Charging Cable.

Yes. What the OP describes is not a charger. Charger is on-board the car. In the case of the '12 Leaf, it's under hump in the back (http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?t=3010). OP can look at http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=14728&p=332668#p332668.

The stock L1 EVSE is warranted for 5 years/60 K miles.

 

[jdc]

Thanks for the consideration of my problem. My level 2 240V charger works without any issue. I did take the EVSE cable to a dealer who told me it was working fine. The car is scheduled for a new battery under warranty (lost 4 bars at 56000miles). I will have them more fully inspect the EVSE cable. Thanks J

 

[NeilBlanchard]

The 120V outlet has to have a proper ground in order to work. Check it with a tester, like this:

 

[DuncanCunningham]

Do you have leafspy?

If so, can you look up if you have any DTCs?

I had a few issues with some DTC that didn't like some connections.

I ended up replacing the 12v battery, resetting the DTCs and all the issues went away.

just a thought.

 

[Bob]

As someone else mentioned, try your 120V EVSE with a completely different outlet in a different building. If that also chatters, then you need to get warranty repair of the EVSE.

Bob

 

[jdc]

Thanks for the further suggestions. After a bit more toying with it, I think its a loose cable. If I bend the long cable back on itself, a 180' bend at the box, the chatter stops and charging begins. I will take it in to the service department and see if they can get it replaced.

J

 

[jdc]

Thanks for all the help here folks. I drilled out the plastic screw covers, and took the brick apart. Cut off one foot of the long cable and pulled it into the brick, crimped on the terminals. Sealed all back up, its quite well designed and no sign of water intrusion, despite four winters of rain exposure. Its working just fine now. Cheers John

 

[cwerdna]

^^^
Not sure why you'd do that. You probably just voided the 5 year/60K warranty on the EVSE.

 

[powersurge]

Yup, why take something apart when you can get a new one handed to you by the dealer...

Now you have to live with an opened up cable... No dealer will even look at that now..

 

[GlennD]

If you want the Lear EVSE and Mercedes bag I have the one from my totaled car. It has never been used since I replaced it with an OpenEVSE unit. No way was I going to carry a $1000 dollar EVSE that had to be turned in at lease end. I will sell the whole thing for $250.

 

[jdc]

Well I did ask my service department about the warranty first. They claimed the EVSE had a 3 year 36000 mile warranty. Why get a new one when one can repair the old one. The unit is fully water tight after my repair. All that is missing is the six plastic plugs that cap the hole where the screws are located. Plus I love taking things apart. :mrgreen: Thanks for the additional comments and thanks for the offer, much appreciated. J

 

[cwerdna]

Well I did ask my service department about the warranty first. They claimed the EVSE had a 3 year 36000 mile warranty. Why get a new one when one can repair the old one.

They were wrong. From the '12 warranty booklet
" ELECTRIC VEHICLE (EV) SYSTEM COVERAGE
The EV System coverage period is 60 months or
60,000 miles, whichever come first.
This warranty covers any repairs needed to correct
defects in materials or workmanship.
EV System Coverage applies to components
listed below under the heading EV System, supplied
by Nissan, subject to the exclusions listed
under the heading WHAT IS NOT COVERED.
EV SYSTEM
Motor, Inverter unit, VCM, Reduction gear,
DC/DC converter, Onboard charger, Onboard
charger connector, and Trickle charge cable."

Well, you're going to keep on having to repair that unit yourself if anything else fails.

 

[LeftieBiker]

I believe that the longer warranty on EV drive and charging components is related to the longer emissions control systems warranties on ICE vehicles. IIRC, these resulted from the discovery that many vehicles, especially American-made cars, had emissions control systems designed to last about as long as the bumper to bumper warranty. Four year old Fords were spewing soot as if they were VW diesels.