as far as i know there is not much difference between a dryer type nema 6-50P and a 14-50R other than the latter has 2 grounds and the former 1 ground and latter is 240v and former is 120v. AFAIK there is nothing special about an EV vs other type of adapter for this that I know of. Correct me if i'm wrong thoughThe Nissan OEM (L1/L2) portable EVSE should have come with a special adapter for connecting the NEMA 14-50 plug into it.
You can read more about it in the following post thread:
https://mynissanleaf.com/threads/ne...r-for-240-120-volt-charger.34888/#post-638199
I haven't used the ebay adapter you mentioned. If it was designed properly for use on EVs, then it may work.
No socket has two grounds; a 14-50R has one ground and a neutral. While a neutral and a ground are usually at roughly the same potential, they are very different and are in no way interchangeable.as far as i know there is not much difference between a dryer type nema 6-50P and a 14-50R other than the latter has 2 grounds and the former 1 ground...
a 6-50 is 240 volt, two hots and a ground, no neutral. a 14-50 is 240/120, two hots one neutral and one ground. both are 50 amp max, 40 amp continuous.as far as i know there is not much difference between a dryer type nema 6-50P and a 14-50R other than the latter has 2 grounds and the former 1 ground and latter is 240v and former is 120v. AFAIK there is nothing special about an EV vs other type of adapter for this that I know of. Correct me if i'm wrong though
You are wrong...but then others have pointed that out.as far as i know there is not much difference between a dryer type nema 6-50P and a 14-50R other than the latter has 2 grounds and the former 1 ground and latter is 240v and former is 120v. AFAIK there is nothing special about an EV vs other type of adapter for this that I know of. Correct me if i'm wrong though
A lot of untruths on this thread
This is the first I've heard electrical code mentioned, but it makes sense with regard to your "that one item only" observation. My first Leaf was missing that adaptor piece, and lacking a 240v supply at the time, I was able to substitute one of the EV-designated adaptors available on Amazon without issue. The second car, the one I kept after exchange, did come with the adaptor. The fact that it has a hinged interlock to the EVSE plug and is recessed on its receptacle side seemed like overkill to me at first glance, as if just for mechanical stability/security, but in light of what you're saying it must be done that way to also make it difficult to use the adaptor with anything else. Thanks for elaborating.it violates code, but is designed for that one item only, and that EVSE determines when it is in use and limits the draw to what the circuit can handle
Some EVSE's "auto-switch" (e.g. determine input voltage and adjust accordingly). If your spec's confirm this, then you're good to go. 'Put some strain relief on those wires, tho - ok? It's likely to get tugged hard, and you want that stress to go to the socket structure, not your screwed-wire connectionsWell I don't know why I would be wrong. I just made myself an adapter and it works perfectly well.
Here is the wiring diagram
https://getgoplug.com/cdn/shop/products/120VAdapterWiringDiagram_grande.png?v=1637956145
Here is a photo of the adapter I made:
View attachment 3591
Tested and works fine.
A lot of untruths on this thread
How about some insulation on the socket???Some EVSE's "auto-switch" (e.g. determine input voltage and adjust accordingly). If your spec's confirm this, then you're good to go. 'Put some strain relief on those wires, tho - ok? It's likely to get tugged hard, and you want that stress to go to the socket structure, not your screwed-wire connections
OK i agree. but there is only so many ways you can wire this and i followed the diagram for EV. And it works. So I don't know why everybody makes it out to be such a complex thing. There are 3 wires only to be connected to 4 other connecting points on the other adapter configuration. There is really nothing special about connecting wires properly. If you can connect wires you can do it.Those taking issue with "AFAIK there is nothing special about an EV vs other type of adapter for this that I know of" are right to do so. I'm pleased that your gadget is working for you, and you haven't yet burned down your house or injured yourself. But it doesn't mean people can grab something from their hardware store or amazon that has a grounded household plug on one end and a 14-50R on the other, and then succeed in charging their Leaf with it. If it is not designated specifically for use with electric vehicle charging, it's likely set up in another configuration that is common for recreational vehicle use: G to G, X to X, and W to W with the Y conductor going nowhere. Those devices provide no voltage between X and Y, which is where an EVSE wants it.
well please tell me where the diagram is wrong then.All I'll say is:
In electrical, things can work, not be correct, safe or to code. That doesn't make it right.
If I say more, it wouldn't be nice.
I agree there is confusion. Nobody has pointed out what is the actual diagram that is any different from the diagram I have provided. Essentially this is connecting 3 wires to 4 connecting points properly. It's not rocket science. The rest is using the right gauge wires and properly insulating. If you have specific criticism about what is wrong please advise. Otherwise saying don't do something that can result in injury is just a platitude that everybody knows. Doing anything can result in injury if you do not know what you are doing.You are wrong...but then others have pointed that out.
My concern is giving incorrect advice about something that could result in injury to the person asking the question...let alone the additional confusion it generates in the thread.
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