Capacity Loss on 2011-2012 LEAFs

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To gain the maximum battery life, it appears that max charge should be 80% and should not be discharged down to more than 20%. The useful range then is 60% of battery capacity, and that is what should also be stated by all manufacturers, in addition to any other claims they may want to make.

And if not more than one QC is the norm for battery life, then the operating radius of the car would be based on that, which is 120% maximum. All the talk about having QC stations along highways seems rather futile.

Most practical use would be a daily commute that could be done with 60% capacity. That's 42 freeway miles round trip, or 60 city mile with speeds not exceeding 45mph.

My battery capacity now stands at 48.4 Ahrs or 73.8% at end of 30 month with 30k miles. Very close to losing my third bar. And my daily commute of 50 miles round trip is in danger.
 
sksingh said:
To gain the maximum battery life, it appears that max charge should be 80% and should not be discharged down to more than 20%.
caplossmnl


While this might make sense on paper, not much benefit has been observed from this type of regime in the field. It would not buy the owners much time in Phoenix, and would likely not translate into much tangible benefit for you in the OC. The main driver of battery capacity appears to be the effective ambient temperature at the place of residence. If you happen to have a covered garage, then the conditions and temperature there are likely a significant factor as well. I think I can empathize with your situation, and the desire to understand and help prevent this process, but I believe that an average owner cannot do all that much to slow it down.
 
surfingslovak said:
sksingh said:
To gain the maximum battery life, it appears that max charge should be 80% and should not be discharged down to more than 20%.
caplossmnl


While this might make sense on paper, not much benefit has been observed from this type of regime in the field. It would not buy the owners much time in Phoenix, and would likely not translate into much tangible benefit for you in the OC. The main driver of battery capacity appears to be the effective ambient temperature at the place of residence. If you happen to have a covered garage, then the conditions and temperature there are likely a significant factor as well. I think I can empathize with your situation, and the desire to understand and help prevent this process, but I believe that an average owner cannot do all that much to slow it down.

+1 on this. Look at Drees. He followed every protocol for long battery life and it still did not work for him. It really all points to a heat issue and we are not talking a lot of heat here either.

look at Abasille; he has PNW numbers on his LEAF and his only difference from other Southern CA residents? about 8,000 feet. The cooler mountain climate he lives in really plays a difference here. In the general scheme of things, the drive he has is probably one of the worst. Max regen one way, max power the other. so "gentle" driving is not possible for him but he still has a relatively robust pack
 
sksingh said:
To gain the maximum battery life, it appears that max charge should be 80% and should not be discharged down to more than 20%.

I was aware of field data suggesting that daily charging to 100% didn't have much effect on degradation. Are there field data suggesting that daily (or more often) discharging below VLBW similarly has little effect on battery degradation?
 
stjohnh said:
sksingh said:
To gain the maximum battery life, it appears that max charge should be 80% and should not be discharged down to more than 20%.

I was aware of field data suggesting that daily charging to 100% didn't have much effect on degradation. Are there field data suggesting that daily (or more often) discharging below VLBW similarly has little effect on battery degradation?

there is a lot less definitive data on the low end but there are several here that rarely discharge that low who still have issues. It really is a heat issue.

right now, my VERY careful driving range is about 70 miles and I meet or exceed 64 miles a day 18 times in Sept so I am around VLB nearly every day. Check my sig for my batt stats as I will try to update them every week now with the weekly range for GIDs, ahr, and Health. More than 50% of my degradation happened in a 5 week period after the SW update but 30% of it happened in a two week period just before I had the update done so basically my pack fell off a cliff. Granted not as steep a one as most are seeing and I have my climate to thank for that but that is still a two way street. I now have to contend with loss of range due to the cold and in my position; I dont see much difference between it and permanent loss since its still a daily challenge
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
there is a lot less definitive data on the low end but there are several here that rarely discharge that low who still have issues. It really is a heat issue.

I would be one of those people. I think I have seen LBW a total of three times, VLBW once, QC'd once, turtle once (on purpose) to test the range of the battery right after I bought the car. I work from home so that means my car sits in our garage 98% of the time, yet I'm on the hairy edge of losing my first bar with 8100 miles on the car.
 
sksingh said:
To gain the maximum battery life, it appears that max charge should be 80% and should not be discharged down to more than 20%. The useful range then is 60% of battery capacity, and that is what should also be stated by all manufacturers, in addition to any other claims they may want to make.

And if not more than one QC is the norm for battery life, then the operating radius of the car would be based on that, which is 120% maximum. All the talk about having QC stations along highways seems rather futile.

Most practical use would be a daily commute that could be done with 60% capacity. That's 42 freeway miles round trip, or 60 city mile with speeds not exceeding 45mph.

My battery capacity now stands at 48.4 Ahrs or 73.8% at end of 30 month with 30k miles. Very close to losing my third bar. And my daily commute of 50 miles round trip is in danger.
I agree with a slight editing of your statement. The most practical use would be a daily commute that is 42 freeway miles round trip, or 60 city miles with speeds not exceeding 45mph.
But the rationale you stated for this is incorrect.
I agree with surfingslovak and DaveinOlyWA that the importance of staying between 20% and 80% status of charge is probably not that significant. If the time above 80% and below 20% is kept relatively short, it just doesn't make that much difference. The capacity loss is driven by time and temperature. Even DCQC doesn't make a lot of difference if done with 6 temperature bars or less, and its impact is one of a bit more time at a higher temperature, which increases the average temperature the battery is at by some modest amount.
The correct rationale is based on two things.
First most drivers do not want to be driving around below Low Battery Warning. This leaves around 17% to 20% of the 24 kWh battery capacity unavailable, even when the LEAF is new and has 100% capacity. (Yes I recognize some zealous MNL participants do drive to VLBW or occasionally to turtle a lot. I believe they're a small minority of LEAF drivers. I've only been to LBW six times in 16,000 miles. Only seen --- on the GOM once a couple miles short of DCQC station. Never seen VLBW or turtle.)
The second and most important rationale is that battery capacity steadily declines.
Even the early Nissan statement on battery capacity loss was 80% at 5 years / 60,000 miles; 70% at 10 years / 100,000 miles.
The LEAF is a 40 to 60 miles between charges vehicle based on these two rationales.
Does a lot better early on, but not over the life of the vehicle.
The sad thing is that Nissan missed it on their capacity projections. The 2011 / 2012 / 2013 / and at least some significant part of the future 2014 LEAF production run have a battery that degrades markedly faster than Nissan projected.
So sksingh, you're unfortunately having to live with a range at 30 months of use and 30,000 miles that you shouldn't have experienced until 96 months or more and 80,000 miles.
I don't know if you leased or bought. If you leased for three years and were planning to change vehicles at the end of the lease, you're experiencing impacts that you didn't expect and that Nissan isn't going to do anything about.
They have provided a modest 5 year, 60,000 mile, 66.25% capacity warranty.
If you leased, unlikely you'll get a new battery before the lease runs out.
If you bought you are fortunate that you probably will get a new (or likely at least 10 or 11 bar replacement battery) to get another couple years of use out of the vehicle.
But most LEAF purchasers are like me and will not get a battery replacement and will end up with a slightly greater than 60,000 mile vehicle with a degraded battery that Nissan didn't think would happen until 10 years / 100,000 miles.
I think we ALL have good justification to be very unhappy with the Nissan LEAF battery capacity degradation. :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:
 
TimLee said:
(Yes I recognize some zealous MNL participants do drive to VLBW or occasionally to turtle a lot. I believe they're a small minority of LEAF drivers. I've only been to LBW six times in 16,000 miles.

So is this a fair statement... While "conventional wisdom" that charging to 100% is bad is not supported by field data (ie there are some w high mileage Leafs w 12 bars who charge to 100% daily), there really isn't field data on the low end. "Conventional wisdom" is that discharge below 20% is not good, but there really isn't data to support that.

Tim, you seem to have a lot of knowledge about this, why exactly do you avoid VLB and even LBW so strongly?
 
In regards to charging to 100%, I would like to say this, do not charge to 100% and leave it that way for days or weeks at a time parked in the sun. I still think that is bad for any lithium battery.

At the same time I would have no worries about using the end only timer set for 100% and finish just before I start using the car every day. My commute is short so 80% and charge every couple of days is fine for me. When I need the extra range, fill it up just before leaving and no big deal.
 
stjohnh said:
"Conventional wisdom" is that discharge below 20% is not good, but there really isn't data to support that.

Tim, you seem to have a lot of knowledge about this, why exactly do you avoid VLB and even LBW so strongly?
I don't think there is much data to support that discharge below 20% is not good, if there is, I haven't seen it. If I get it to VLB, I just don't leave it there very long, just in case it is bad for the battery.
I've avoided VLB mainly because my driving hasn't required challenging it.
But I also haven't invested yet in a device to definitively know the 2011 LEAF status of charge.
The GOM on the 2011 / 2012 is near useless, and the 12 status of charge bars is a very coarse display of capacity that leaves the 2011 / 2012 LEAF driver with significant range anxiety.
I think most of the LEAF drivers that regularly drive to LBW or VLBW have bought devices to know where they are on status of charge.
I plan to buy a Note 3 soon and the ELM adapter and extension cable and Leaf Spy Pro so that I will definitively know the status of charge. Having lost one capacity bar, soon I will be getting to LBW a lot more often, so I will need the information.
At least Nissan intelligently added a % status of charge indication on the 2013 LEAF. They were smartly listening to LEAF drivers in doing that and a lot of the other improvements on the 2013 SV and 2013 SL. And even though I wouldn't want a 2013 S, they were responding to a segment of the market that wanted reduced cost in offering the 2013 S.
 
well since April 2012, I have charged to 100% nearly every day. no definitive figures but a quick glance at my spreadsheet says probably 90+% and have to say its not that much of a factor. I have had it fully charged for up to 12 hours (rarely) over a day (2-3 times) and for 4-6 hours (frequently) before driving.

But almost always garaged (at least at night) so no direct Sun issues and only a total of 30 mins at 7 TBs. the rest of the time at 4,5, and 6 bars. QC a lot (which did account for the 7 TB incident) but rarely longer than 15 mins. have done as many as 4 a day though

either way, all these things maybe factors but most seem to be fairly insignificant to ambient temps the car lives in.

other thing to note; nearly all my loss happened this Summer. a Summer that was one of the warmest (not hot) we have had in a long time. Seattle (a cooler place than where I live) registered over 5,000 minutes at 80º or more which only happens once every 5-10 years (although 2nd time since 2009)
 
Took the car in yesterday for the update and started the battery pack replacement process. Even with the update, they confirmed that I am at 8 bars, so the pack will be ordered on Monday. The service advisor (who has been great, btw, ever since day one) said it will take 4-6 days to get it (I'm betting on ten) and then we'll get her scheduled for replacement.
 
cyellen said:
Took the car in yesterday for the update and started the battery pack replacement process. Even with the update, they confirmed that I am at 8 bars, so the pack will be ordered on Monday. The service advisor (who has been great, btw, ever since day one) said it will take 4-6 days to get it (I'm betting on ten) and then we'll get her scheduled for replacement.
Glad to hear Nissan is taking care of this for you. How many miles on the car ?
 
[/quote]
Glad to hear Nissan is taking care of this for you. How many miles on the car ?[/quote]

Just at 19000 now. PHX heat is a killer.
 
Glad to hear Nissan is taking care of this for you. How many miles on the car ?[/quote]

Just at 19000 now. PHX heat is a killer.[/quote]

WOW! so you will most likely only have this pack a short while but at least you should get a "heat" pack the next go round!
 
TimLee said:
stjohnh said:
"Conventional wisdom" is that discharge below 20% is not good, but there really isn't data to support that.

Tim, you seem to have a lot of knowledge about this, why exactly do you avoid VLB and even LBW so strongly?
I think most of the LEAF drivers that regularly drive to LBW or VLBW have a soc monitor......... I wouldn't want a 2013 S, they were responding to a segment of the market that wanted reduced cost in offering the 2013 S.
Ahhhh yes, I wouldn't drive below LBW much either w/o an accurate way to tell how many miles I have left. Though with testing I now know that I have 7 miles before turtle when the last fuel bar disappears.

I have an S and had I to do it over I might have bought the SV. At the time purchase price was #1 priority. Though I do like the climate controls better on my S better than those on my wife's SV.
 
TimLee said:
Even the early Nissan statement on battery capacity loss was 80% at 5 years / 60,000 miles; 70% at 10 years / 100,000 miles.
That's the crux of the issue. If Nissan is telling customers to expect 80% capacity at 5 years driving 12k mi/year expectation on average, one can only reasonably assume that those estimates would apply to the bulk of their market - meaning California which is the largest market and more specifically meaning the SF Bay Area, Los Angeles markets which would be the bulk of California sales. Yet, it appears that unless you park outside and live in the cooler parts of the Bay Area, you are not going to make that estimate. For sure, the south Bay Area, Los Angeles and San Diego areas (unless you live right on the coast) all appear to be headed towards 20% capacity loss after around 3-4 years and 35-45k miles - that's about 50% faster than what we were lead to believe!

Certainly I feel duped by Nissan's claims that their "automotive" grade batteries were durable and didn't need cooling unless you live in Dubai. They can't even handle Los Angeles! I erroneously assumed they would hold up about the same as Tesla Roadster batteries in my climate - after all those are only "laptop" cells - those batteries are aging much better than LEAF batteries with minimal calendar life calendar loss and the bulk of capacity loss being determined by miles put on the car. Nissan really needs the "HOT" battery out as soon as possible - and that's not just for hot climates but everyone.

KJD said:
At the same time I would have no worries about using the end only timer set for 100% and finish just before I start using the car every day. My commute is short so 80% and charge every couple of days is fine for me. When I need the extra range, fill it up just before leaving and no big deal.
Yeah - I typically don't need to charge more than 80%, but I do charge to 80% daily, but only use about 25-30% of the charge normally so ideally I'd charge to around 65-70% which would reduce the average SOC a bit. Even though there is little real-life data that supports longer life at lower SOC - lab results for sure show a significant difference. Tesla didn't go through the effort of setting up a "storage mode" for the Roadster which puts the batteries on a maintenance charge under 50% SOC and a slider on the Model S which lets one adjust the charge level between 50-100% for no reason. The same for Nissan - why add a 80% "long life" charge mode if it doesn't significantly improve battery life?

If I were someone who needed to charge to 100% regularly and on a TOU utility rate, ideally you'd have a two stage timer where the car would charge up to 80% during off-peak hours, then charge the rest of the way to 100% right before departure time.

DaveinOlyWA said:
other thing to note; nearly all my loss happened this Summer.
No, it just appears that all of your loss happened in the summer thanks to the inaccurate battery capacity readings and low temperatures and your recent P3227 update.
 
stjohnh said:
sksingh said:
To gain the maximum battery life, it appears that max charge should be 80% and should not be discharged down to more than 20%.

I was aware of field data suggesting that daily charging to 100% didn't have much effect on degradation. Are there field data suggesting that daily (or more often) discharging below VLBW similarly has little effect on battery degradation?
Most deep-cycle battery cycle life testing (and many warranties) assume 80% DoD. There is certainly test data to indicate that discharging below 20% of remaining capacity speeds up Li-ion battery degradation, although it doesn't appear to be as steep as is the case with say Lead-acid, with which I'm most familiar.

All batteries (sintered-plate Ni-Cads w/memory effect aside) will retain capacity longer if you discharge them less. The thing is, the heat-related degradation (without a liquid-cooled) TMS is so much more unreasonable than Nissan claimed that I think it swamps the effects of DoD, except in extreme outlier cases. IMO, Tony Williams sacrificed his first LEAF's battery so everyone else wouldn't have to, by repeatedly running it down to turtle to gather data for his range chart. If you want to kill a battery in a hurry, that's the way to do it.

Those of us who were brought up on the characteristics of deep-cycle Lead-acids don't plan to go below 80% DoD, as a matter of habit and good practice (i.e. likely longer life plus retaining an emergency reserve). Actually, for stationary lead-acid batteries it's normal to design systems for a maximum of 50% DoD, which gives the lowest life-cycle costs. Using a battery in a mobile setting adds a whole other set of requirements. Unfortunately, Li-ion batteries in mobile applications are still so new that we don't have enough data yet from a wide variety of conditions to make such a determination generally, let alone for the numerous different Li-ion chemistries. So, for many of us with an engineering/design mindset, we believe in using very conservative numbers and charge/discharge habits until we've reduced the uncertainties a great deal.

Put it this way: restricting your normal discharge to no lower than LBW is definitely not going to be worse for your battery, compared to discharging it to VLBW or even lower. Given the choice or erring one side or the other, I'd choose to charge to 100% (but unlike Lead-acid, not leave it there for a prolonged period) and stop the discharge at LBW, than charge to 80% and discharge to VLBW or below. In the case of a non-TMS LEAF battery cooking in heat the difference may be unnoticeable, but in a better climate it may be.
 
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