Getting a free battery replacement after losing 4 bar

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nerys said:
Are they working on a 150m battery?
Yes. Latest rumor is about two years from now when new design is released.
nerys said:
Are they working on a 150m battery?
Will it fit older cars?[/quote]No. I've been begging them to give us a 30 kWh battery upgrade option (~100 EPA miles), but nothing tells me this will or will not happen.
nerys said:
I plan to put 35 to 40 thousand miles a year on my leaf. If I can manage that the car costs nothing at all. Zero.
It should be doable with a range greater than 150 miles. In fact, more miles per year has already been done with the first-generation LEAF by TaylorSFGuy. That required charging both at home and at work.
 
ok yesterday I got the car back from the dealership, it took about 1 full day for them to do it... I got a free rental from them.. they wash the car when i took it in the first time , but this time when I got it back they didn't wash it. haha
range show 110 miles, and 120 miles when i put it into eco mode.. but thats bullshit .. if i do the 80% charge and stop at the last 2 bar, I'm guessing i'll get only 45 to 55 miles so i'm back to the same bullshit as before .. I guess i'm selling it $19,000.00 if anybody wants it, it's a 2011 sl-e it's got 7 years or 70k extended gold warranty it cost $2,000.00 at the time , I paid over 40k out the door ..
 
downforceusa said:
range show 110 miles, and 120 miles when i put it into eco mode.. but thats bullshit .. if i do the 80% charge and stop at the last 2 bar, I'm guessing i'll get only 45 to 55 miles so i'm back to the same bullshit as before

How do you figure that you are only going to get 45 to 55 miles with a new battery? How fast do you drive?

I own the car new back in june 2011 back then I was able to get 80 miles max on a full charge

So, that should give you 64 miles at 80% charge. I'm not sure what you are complaining about, you have a BRAND NEW, improved chemistry battery. If you really need it, charge to 100%. Heck, someone needs to test this new formulation to see how much better it really is.
 
why would anyone charge to 80% at this point?

it does the battery no good at all unless you know the car will be sitting .

charge / charge / charge and to 100% unless the car will be parked for a day or more.
 
Plus in reality charging to 100% is in reality charging to 90% or less since they reserve capacity on both ends as unusable.
 
downforceusa said:
range show 110 miles, and 120 miles when i put it into eco mode.. but thats bullshit .. if i do the 80% charge and stop at the last 2 bar, I'm guessing i'll get only 45 to 55 miles so i'm back to the same bullshit as before .. I guess i'm selling it

Something is missing from this story... While I do agree the GOM range is likely way off (when has it ever been right at full charge?), why would you extrapolate a guess to 80% range of 45-55 miles and decide to sell just like that? Have you driven a full charge down to see what sort of mileage you can really get?

What did you expect to see after the battery swap?
 
Due to the prevalent opinion that "It's leased, charge it hard and drive it hard" has actually screwed me over ... I bought a used lease-return 2011 Leaf. I wasn't up to date on this battery capacity stuff, all I knew was that it was reasonably priced, has low-average miles (28,000) for a 3 year old car and it drove fine. I evaluated as I would any normal used car ... which was a mistake I see.

My 2011 has only 9 bars. The guess-o-meter shows sometimes 73 miles on a 100% charge, which drops to high 60s once I leave my driveway.

Carfax shows first owner registered it 7/2011. So with the 60 month battery capacity warranty, I'm almost hoping I lose that 9th bar within the next 2 years to get a new battery.

The residual data on the Nav console shows the "home" location of the original owner as Sacramento. I'll go ahead and assume that the car was ROASTED for 3 years and that the owner had the "It's leased, who cares" attitude.

So I sort of feel like I owe it to myself to run the battery down that last bar to get me to 8. Um, assuming the warranty kicks in when I hit 8 bars, right?

Vince
 
Vincerama said:
My 2011 has only 9 bars. The guess-o-meter shows sometimes 73 miles on a 100% charge, which drops to high 60s once I leave my driveway.
What climate do you live in? Unless you live in a very cool locale, most likely you will lose the 9th bar and get a replacement pack.
 
Yup. Sacramento weather is like that of Arizona. Hot hot hot. So the car was indeed roasting for 3 years.
 
Be sure to look up the warranty opt-out info here on the board. I'm not really very familiar with the details, but it may affect your ability to get the replacement. Probably not though since I imagine the opt out only applied to purchases and not leases.

I hope you get that new battery soon so you can enjoy the car to its full potential.
 
AlanSqB said:
Probably not though since I imagine the opt out only applied to purchases and not leases.


I don't think that's a safe assumption to make. The only way to be sure a car isn't "black listed" is to go to a dealership and have them pull the service paperwork for it, to see if it's flagged with the B0133 code or not.
 
LUXMAN said:
This is supposed to be a useful tool, not a science experiment. That is not what we paid for.
Totally +1.

If Leaf is a 'beta' edition, work-in-progress, then they should say so and not claim it is a car with a 100 mile range if the 'recommendation' is only to use 80% of the SOC (and not go too low either).

So the 'recommendation' for this 100 mile car is that you only go 40 miles in it? They should claim it is a 40 mile car then, and then say 'you can go further, at risk of accelerated degradation of the battery'.

This is EXACTLY why EPA [correctly] judged the first Leaf range on the 80% 'long life' setting - because this was what Nissan recommended.

But not only did Nissan think this was a sleight on their car, they then discontinued that advice so that the EPA would rate it at the higher 100% capacity.

Sorry, Nissan, you can't have it both ways. Either the EPA should rate the car with all of your 'recommendations' taken into account, or don't make those recommendations and look after the consequences for your customers.

{handbook blurb}
dave7133 said:
This is the best they can do to manage the battery??
:lol:
Yeah. Looks like it!

Look. I'm not on a Nissan-bashing fest. But either you can charge to 100% or you can't. The problem is Nissan's disclosure of information and advice, not the car. It's like if you were to buy a hoist that is rated for 1 ton working load and you routinely lift 800kg. Then when it stretches and you get concerned, the supplier says, 'Ah, the 1 ton WLL kit should only be used for 500kg. You needed the 2 ton hoist for your task.'
 
I try a Full charge and i was able to get 67 miles and left the last 2 bar unused .. so at 80% charge it's about 45 to 55 my guess depends how fast or slow you drive.. If you want your battery to last this is what you have to do, I don't think i can lose 4 bar in 2 and half years ..
 
downforceusa said:
ok yesterday I got the car back from the dealership, it took about 1 full day for them to do it...
range show 110 miles, and 120 miles when i put it into eco mode.. but thats bullshit .. if i do the 80% charge and stop at the last 2 bar, I'm guessing i'll get only 45 to 55 miles so i'm back to the same bullshit as before .. I guess i'm selling it $19,000.00 if anybody wants it, it's a 2011 sl-e it's got 7 years or 70k extended gold warranty it cost $2,000.00 at the time , I paid over 40k out the door ..
Most unusual / extreme response by someone getting a no cost capacity warranty battery replacement that I have read.
But as in most things there is always a distribution of responses.
Will always be some that are more unususl.

I just don't understand the desire to sell the LEAF.
Is it just irritation with range?
OP has driven the LEAF 41 months at ~10,000 miles per year.
Even though battery degradation is slower with 80% charging, OP could continue charging to 100% and down to nothing for another 41 months or more.
And that would be around when the extended warranty runs out.
At that point either sell it and get another car or put a replacement ~$6,200 battery in it.

Possible the new battery may degrade slower. Could be the new heat resistant chemistry, although uncertain whether Nissan is using those for capacity warranty yet. But even if not chemistry improved some in 2013 and it probably has that.

Not sure a 2011 will bring $19,000. Maybe to the right buyer since it has a new battery. But some places 2011 LEAF sells for $11,000 to $13,000. And a new heat resistant battery is only around $6,200 including the required mounting kit.

OP seems unhappy with what the LEAF is worth when they paid $40,000.
But the OP got $7,500 tax credit and probably $5,000 CA state credit. (possibly $2,500 depending on filing date)
So the OP hasn't spent $40,000 on the LEAF.
And has avoided paying for a lot of gasoline.

The OP should help clarify why they want or need to sell.
Seems confusing to me.
 
Well one point of aggravation I want to add. Unless you make something like 75k a year you are not getting that tax credit. Its a scam for the wealthy since only the wealthy can claim it.

I make 24k. Know what I would get for that rax credit? $440 and no it does not roll over.

What a scam. The people who most need it can not have it.
 
One good thing to know is that Poway was able to do the Battery Swap. I will be taking mine there when it's time. If anyone one knows of another location in San Diego that has done the Battery swap, posted it here. I don't trust the Chula Vista location to work on my car.

2011 Leaf (Red SL / super fast) 34500 Miles and lost 2 Bars so far, 100% Charge daily... Hoping to get the new battery at 4 Bars. With a newer battery I would charge to 80% and won't do any DCQC locally.

To the OP, the new battery gets better as you go, invest in a LeafDD GID's meter, that's what I use to get around. I never use the GOM meter.


Fred
 
nerys said:
Well one point of aggravation I want to add. Unless you make something like 75k a year you are not getting that tax credit. Its a scam for the wealthy since only the wealthy can claim it.

I make 24k. Know what I would get for that rax credit? $440 and no it does not roll over.

What a scam. The people who most need it can not have it.

From what I understand the 7500.00 or so tax credit absorbs what you owe. So if you got that coming go exempt one or two months to recoupe that money.


Fred
 
nissan should let people know that the leaf is good for 50 miles and thats it, then i don't have a problem. but they first come out and said car can do 100 miles. if i know what i know now i would have just bought a tesla instead .. the car is 19k obo
 
Slow1 said:
downforceusa said:
range show 110 miles, and 120 miles when i put it into eco mode.. but thats bullshit .. if i do the 80% charge and stop at the last 2 bar, I'm guessing i'll get only 45 to 55 miles so i'm back to the same bullshit as before .. I guess i'm selling it

Something is missing from this story... While I do agree the GOM range is likely way off (when has it ever been right at full charge?), why would you extrapolate a guess to 80% range of 45-55 miles and decide to sell just like that? Have you driven a full charge down to see what sort of mileage you can really get?

What did you expect to see after the battery swap?
downforceusa said:
I try a Full charge and i was able to get 67 miles and left the last 2 bar unused .. so at 80% charge it's about 45 to 55 my guess depends how fast or slow you drive.. If you want your battery to last this is what you have to do, I don't think i can lose 4 bar in 2 and half years ..
Depending on the GOM numbers is foolish.

Since you have a pre-'13 Leaf, you're best off getting something to view battery gids (e.g. LeafSpy) so that you have something more granular to work with than the too coarse 12 fuel bars and the crap GOM. And, it'll let you feel more comfortable driving around at lower states of charge.

As for "i was able to get 67 miles and left the last 2 bar unused", we know nothing about how you're driving and esp. what speeds. To leave those last 2 bars unused means you're leaving a fair amount of capacity unused. From http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=101293" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;, it looks like you're leaving between 26 and 31.3% of the battery unused by gids the moment lose the 3rd bar.
 
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