Got a new leaf! But... it was an odd situation...

[NissanLeafCamper]

The car might need NTB13-098 applied. It was a service campaign: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=15655

I think it does! The sticker says it was made in 03/13 and I think that is the same year and month as yours?

You also need to bring the car in to the dealer just past this anniversary date every year for the battery checkup, in order to keep the battery warranties in effect. If your car is over 2 years old you will need to pay for the checks, around $50 or less.

I told myself to do this on the day I got the car but totally forgot Thanks for reminding me I will give them a call and I will see if they can find out if the car needs the patch. i'm charging it again and almost at 100% but it almost seemed the other day like one it was at 100% the final blue light at the front was still blinking? Must it still charge a little more after 100% battery?

I don't think that's true. It's good to use as much of the battery as possible before charging. Go down to 10% if you're able, then charge to 100%.

Thank you. I like the idea of charging to 100% more than not being able to. Not so sure on the discharging as I'd get scared that I'd forget to charge and end up stranded somewhere . I do have AAA thhough.

 

[GRA]

Thanks guys,

I was thinking if the guy lied, but he seemed like such a nice guy (sales rep). Who knows... maybe he did do it on purpose. If so, that is dirty! He even bought me some burritos to eat! Though I guess by then he had already earned his commission.... I like the leaf a lot that is why I wanted to get it. I just dislike greatly the experience at the dealer. It always seem to be like that one way or another and I was desperate so it made things worse. At least I got a car now and I can get back to work and to help my family so happy about that. Live and learn. Next time I want to save full in cash and get what i want for sure and be able to walk away with out a second thought.

Anyway, I just left the charging station. Actually itt was a little bit ago. I wrote down the final numbers

Left side 6 bars

Right side 11 bars

92% Battery

I did not count the little blocks you guys mentioned on the right side as I did not know they served a purpose!

Is the bars on the left the starter battery? Should I be worry about that at all? I guess the dc to dc converter auto refills it when it gets low to a certain level. Also, the reg braking... does that recharge the main pack of the starter battery????

I've been restraining myself from replying, but it's time. My apologies for being blunt - you made several basic mistakes here, but as long as the car works for you, they won't be too critical.

Rule #1: NEVER, NEVER ever buy a car when you're desperate, unless you really have no choice (and even then, do everything you can to appear not desperate). This is like chumming blood and fish parts in shark-infested waters. Car salespeople can spot this a mile away, and start drooling. Take your time, don't be rushed into a decision.

Rule #2: Assume car salespeople are going to lie to you to make a sale, unless and until proven otherwise.

Rule #3: Do your research beforehand: Make sure you know more about the car than the salesperson; this is rarely difficult, especially with EVs. Bring your information along with you if you haven't memorized it, and don't hesitate to correct them when they make erroneous claims. After the second or third time, they'll start to get the message that they can't snow you. Sadly, some will keep right on trying regardless.

Rule #4: Salespeople have a wide variety of tactics they've learned over the decades. It's possible that the salesman did make an honest mistake, but equally if not more likely they just pulled a 'bait and switch' on you (see Rule #2). Don't feel sorry for them; hold them to their promises and statements, get them in writing, and if they won't stand behind them, leave and go elsewhere.

Rule #5. Read the most recent year's Consumer Reports Auto Issue (April), which details the most common sales tactics, as well as providing a lot of info on both new cars and reliability ratings of used ones. If a new car, use their price service info, showing what the dealer paid for the car and any incentives they receive (there are other, similar services now, especially for used cars but CR's is one of if not the oldest). You really went into this blind, and it cost you. Asking whether you got a good deal after you buy is too late.

Rule #6. Don't settle for less than what you wanted, unless you've already listed, mentally but preferably written if not otherwise, which features are essential and which are 'nice to have but can do without'. You wanted an SV, which would have gotten you 'B' mode, cruise control and the heat pump. These are all valuable, the heat pump probably the most generally useful in California but all may or may not be necessary for you. In any case, before signing any paperwork, take your list and make sure that the car you're buying has all the features it's supposed to have, and feel free to inspect it to make sure it also has all the accessories that are supposed to be in it, like the portable charger, spare/jack if applicable, etc.

There's a lot more I could list, but that should help you avoid the worst mistakes in future. You got hosed a bit, but consider it a relatively inexpensive lesson. And you can hope that when the time comes to buy your next EV, it will be a Tesla, or at least sold using the same sales methods.

 

[GRA]

I don't think that's true. It's good to use as much of the battery as possible before charging. Go down to 10% if you're able, then charge to 100%.

Thank you. I like the idea of charging to 100% more than not being able to. Not so sure on the discharging as I'd get scared that I'd forget to charge and end up stranded somewhere . I do have AAA thhough.

LeafMuranoDriver's statement is incorrect. These batteries don't have memory issues that require full cycling. They will degrade faster the deeper you discharge them, and also if you charge them to 100% and leave them there without driving them for several hours or more. So, feel free to discharge the battery as much as you need to get to where you need to go, but for longest life try and maintain the battery between 30-80% state of charge. If you need to charge it to full to reach your destination, do it, and similarly if you need to take it down to LBW (Low Battery Warning) or VLBW (Very LBW), go ahead. In any case, occasional charging (say at least once per month) to 100% allows the battery cells to balance, which is good for them. Just be aware that routine deep discharges will shorten its life, the amount depending on the interaction of many independent variables, and so will leaving the car parked overnight or longer at 100% charge. Also, as you're in SoCal, try not to park the care on unshaded asphalt or concrete on hot days, cause heat is tough on batteries; find some shade if possible. No need to agonize about it, the car shouldn't rule your life, and it won't suddenly blow up or stop working if you don't do these things. Just be aware of the issues that will cause more rapid degradation.

 

[NissanLeafCamper]

You got hosed a bit, but consider it a relatively inexpensive lesson. And you can hope that when the time comes to buy your next EV, it will be a Tesla, or at least sold using the same sales methods.

Thanks GRA,

You are right I was taken advantage of . I was pretty naive and trusted the sales guy too much. Plus, the bus ride was way to long at 2.5 hrs and I did not feel like riding all the way back with out a car after spending like 6 hours at the dealer . So far every experience at the dealers has been bad. Always the sales guys seem to have some kind of sneaky sales tactic to try and get your money dishonestly . I was expecting that, but I guess I did not expect the string of events that happened and the 'nice guy' attitude from the sales guy. I guess that is how they get you. I learened a lot though and I was just so desperate because I neeeded a working car for work badly. I have to say that I am loving the leaf but I so could have gotten a better deal .

I've been driving the leaf some more and I think cruise control is definitely nice to have for the leaf. With all my other gas cars keeping the pedal down on the freeway doesn't seem as demanding as with the leaf. I guess it is because it is more responsive and the regenerative breaking . So all in all, I can see how getting an SV would have been nicer to have. Cruise, B-Mode(I love playing with D-mode too much), and also the navigation system.

I think I read that the S has better cold air conditioning, but bad heater than the SV models? is this true? If so that is kind of nice. I don''t see any need for the heater in Los Angeles, it always seems to be too hot!

Since I charge my battery for free at a free charnging station I try to charge it to 100% but I don't always have enough time to reach it. If I do get there though I still have to drive a few miles home so I end up, I think, with 90% battery in the end. This should leave me on the safe side right? I'm also trying not to drain it past 50%

Oh I visited the dealer and they told me the 2 free battery tests (one in each year) are gone. So I have to pay for a battery test if it needs one. I asked him if he knew if the car had any tests done for the battery with the VIN and he said that info doesn't show in the computer. So he just gave me a print of the warranty dates and when they end for this car. said that i need my tire rotated every 6 months and brake fluid changed once a year.

I asked him if I should do the battery test even though i have 12 bars and he said that I probably don't need to. So... do you guys think I should do a test? I'm a little puzzled... but I need to do a test at least once a year to keep the 10 year battery warranty active?

 

[GerryAZ]

Nissan says in the owner manuals that the annual battery checks are required to keep the battery warranties (both 8-year, 100,000-mile defect warranty and 5-year, 60,000-mile capacity warranty) intact. I suggest you ask a Nissan dealer to look up the in-service date for your vehicle so you can plan for annual battery tests (the one I paid for on my 2011 was about $50). The dealer should also be able to tell you the dates and odometer readings for the previous battery tests and any other services or repairs. Although the battery tests do not provide much information to the owner, I would not give Nissan an opportunity to deny warranty coverage by missing a battery test.

Gerry

 

[cwerdna]

The car might need NTB13-098 applied. It was a service campaign: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=15655

I think it does! The sticker says it was made in 03/13 and I think that is the same year and month as yours?

Mine has a build month of 6/2013.

 

[Evoforce]

Ah yes, the warranty issue... It has been debated several times and I don't know the absolute answer yet either. I also have talked to more than one dealer and service manager who have said they are "Not necessary". One had even said that they had just applied for a battery replacement for a customer through Nissan Corporation and never were asked or had to provide if the battery checks were performed as part of the criteria for replacement. Her reply to me was an emphatic "No it is not required". A completely separate dealer has told me also that it is not required but they would gladly take my $60 if I insisted. So what do you do? But... it does say in the warranty paperwork, that it is required. Some feel it is best (most cost effective insurance) to just do as the warranty instructs thereby eliminating the possible unknown future (rejection of replacement) and your subsequent possible lawsuit to try to garner a replacement. The next question is, when it comes to the Nissan Leaf, and you are asking questions at the service counter, do you feel very confident that they know what they are talking about, when you ask them informed questions about your car? I so far have not been impressed!

 

[RonDawg]

I've been driving the leaf some more and I think cruise control is definitely nice to have for the leaf. With all my other gas cars keeping the pedal down on the freeway doesn't seem as demanding as with the leaf. I guess it is because it is more responsive and the regenerative breaking . So all in all, I can see how getting an SV would have been nicer to have. Cruise, B-Mode(I love playing with D-mode too much), and also the navigation system.

I don't have B-mode on my car (wasn't introduced until the 2013 model year) but I do have Eco mode which on the older cars increases regen a bit, not as much as B-mode but more than in D. Anyway, what I find when I am on the freeway, or need to go up a long hill, is to take it off Eco. That makes the pedal more sensitive and I don't have to press it as hard to get the same speed. In your case I would suggest driving on the freeway in D-mode instead, switching to B if you encounter stop and go traffic.

think I read that the S has better cold air conditioning, but bad heater than the SV models? is this true? If so that is kind of nice. I don''t see any need for the heater in Los Angeles, it always seems to be too hot!

The resistive heater models do cool a bit better than the ones with heat pumps, but I would not call the heaters "bad." They do suck down more juice in winter though. If you don't use the heater much during an LA winter you won't have a problem.

Oh I visited the dealer and they told me the 2 free battery tests (one in each year) are gone. So I have to pay for a battery test if it needs one. I asked him if he knew if the car had any tests done for the battery with the VIN and he said that info doesn't show in the computer. So he just gave me a print of the warranty dates and when they end for this car. said that i need my tire rotated every 6 months and brake fluid changed once a year.

I asked him if I should do the battery test even though i have 12 bars and he said that I probably don't need to. So... do you guys think I should do a test? I'm a little puzzled... but I need to do a test at least once a year to keep the 10 year battery warranty active?

It's once a year, but just after the anniversary of the car's original in-service date. The warranty dates will tell you what the in-service date was.

A yearly brake fluid change is excessive. Two years is a typical recommendation, and some folks think you can go longer than that especially in SoCal's relatively dry climate (brake fluid absorbs water, which is why periodic changes are recommended).

 

[GRA]

You got hosed a bit, but consider it a relatively inexpensive lesson. And you can hope that when the time comes to buy your next EV, it will be a Tesla, or at least sold using the same sales methods.

Thanks GRA

You're welcome. All things considered, you didn't get screwed too badly for a first attempt.

You are right I was taken advantage of . I was pretty naive and trusted the sales guy too much. Plus, the bus ride was way to long at 2.5 hrs and I did not feel like riding all the way back with out a car after spending like 6 hours at the dealer . So far every experience at the dealers has been bad. Always the sales guys seem to have some kind of sneaky sales tactic to try and get your money dishonestly . I was expecting that, but I guess I did not expect the string of events that happened and the 'nice guy' attitude from the sales guy. I guess that is how they get you. I learened a lot though and I was just so desperate because I neeeded a working car for work badly. I have to say that I am loving the leaf but I so could have gotten a better deal .

Any reason you couldn't have rented a car for a week or two? Would have cost you a lot less than how much you wound up paying extra. Just a thought if you find yourself in a similar situation again.

I've been driving the leaf some more and I think cruise control is definitely nice to have for the leaf. With all my other gas cars keeping the pedal down on the freeway doesn't seem as demanding as with the leaf. I guess it is because it is more responsive and the regenerative breaking . So all in all, I can see how getting an SV would have been nicer to have. Cruise, B-Mode(I love playing with D-mode too much), and also the navigation system.

I think I read that the S has better cold air conditioning, but bad heater than the SV models? is this true? If so that is kind of nice. I don''t see any need for the heater in Los Angeles, it always seems to be too hot!

I concur with RonDawg's recommendations to use D-mode on the freeway when cruising, and shift to ECO when you want enhanced regen; at least experiment with it. Also, as RonDawg stated the S' A/C is more efficient, the resistive heater less efficient than the heat-pump based system for both in the SV and SL. The heater isn't bad, just lower efficiency which will reduce your range more when you use it.

Since I charge my battery for free at a free charnging station I try to charge it to 100% but I don't always have enough time to reach it. If I do get there though I still have to drive a few miles home so I end up, I think, with 90% battery in the end. This should leave me on the safe side right? I'm also trying not to drain it past 50% <snip>

That's fine, and you can go well below 50% SoC. Most people are perfectly happy if they use 80%-LBW, or 100%-LBW, and quite a few use VLBW as their routine lower cut-off. I prefer not to routinely discharge a battery below about 20% SoC (a habit from L-A batteries which is not strictly applicable to Li-ion) or leave myself with such a small reserve. But you can do it, with somewhat loosely quantifiable effects on battery longevity, much of which has been provided by MNL members and INEL, because Nissan sure as hell wasn't forthcoming with this information. Oh, if you haven't already, be sure to get yourself a copy of TonyWilliams range charts: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=4295&hilit=range+chart You should probably use the 93% chart, or maybe the 82% chart, listed at the bottom.