Is the LEAF appropriate for you?

My Nissan Leaf Forum

Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dgpcolorado

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
3,249
Location
The Western Slope, Colorado
The question comes up a lot: "would the LEAF work for me". So, I decided to put together a flow chart to help with the decision making:
http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/111/willaleafworkforyou2.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


It's just a first attempt, so I don't claim my decision criteria are perfect...
 
Good start.
However, this flow chart appears to me to be flawed on a few levels; mostly it is just too conservative.
the cost (30k) appears high to me, though I admit I bought last year and our state has a rebate program. I paid a total of 20.5k, not including tax.
In addition, I am saving more than 2k a year in gas costs, so the afford concept is skewed without further inputs on savings.

In addition, the various go-ahead conditions include some that are errant, including asking whether someone drives generally under 65 on the freeway.
I would have answered NO for my ICE, but now I do so in the Leaf.
Maybe it should say, are you willing to drive <65 mph on the freeway?

Also, the mileage parameters dont fit my experience:
I charge to 80%, drive a roundtrip of 50-52 miles and get home with two bars and about 20-25 miles left.

Just my view.
 
this is a great first go! Thanks for posting it. For the most part, it fits for Washington state and my experience to date. for cold climates, even mildly cold like Seattle Metro, the heated steats and steering wheel are crucial, IMHO, to having a good experience with this car... something about that distinction should be added.
 
You could add a decision point for something like "how predictable are your needs?". If you are out on a sales call and you are told you have to cover an urgent meeting in two hours with another customer 60 miles away it could be a problem. I hear this excuse a lot, not sure how much it really happens to people, maybe they just have an inflated sense of self-importance.
 
Would like to see a line from the box that asks if your residence has a garage or access to power leading to the box that asks whether you have access to charging at work. I know of at least two other owners that at least started out this way (charging only at work, and occasionally at 120 at home). Having said that, at least one is getting a full L2 EVSE.
 
If you really want to get fancy you could have some of the decisions lead to Volt, Prius, iMev, whatever. Could get complicated.

I was told that Volt is good if you occasionally need more than the 40 mile range but can stay close to that most of the time. If you really need to drive a lot you're better with the Prius.
 
What....no solar line?


Great realistic look at what it is all about.

I am constantly telling people that a LEAF is not for everyone.....and neither is a HUMMER.

It is what is best for you (and your principles), and wallet, and ....
 
thankyouOB said:
Good start.
However, this flow chart appears to me to be flawed on a few levels; mostly it is just too conservative.
the cost (30k) appears high to me, though I admit I bought last year and our state has a rebate program. I paid a total of 20.5k, not including tax.
In addition, I am saving more than 2k a year in gas costs, so the afford concept is skewed without further inputs on savings.
I take it that you aren't aware how much the price of the LEAF increased for the 2012 model. Also, most states have sales tax and the vast majority of states don't have any incentives (I believe my state is currently the most generous with a ~$5000 refundable tax credit). Most people seem to buy the SL to get the QC port. That is $37,250 MSRP + $850 D&D less $7500 tax credit (if one qualifies) = $30,600 and that's before any state sales tax. While discounts from MSRP are available in a few launch states, my impression from reading the orders thread is that most people are paying near MSRP at most dealers in most states. Hence my use of the ~$30K figure for the cost of the LEAF. The savings in gas depends on miles driven, gas prices, and electricity prices, which vary considerably from place to place.
In addition, the various go-ahead conditions include some that are errant, including asking whether someone drives generally under 65 on the freeway.
I would have answered NO for my ICE, but now I do so in the Leaf.
Maybe it should say, are you willing to drive <65 mph on the freeway?
I am trying to factor in the fact that the LEAF range is reduced considerably if one drives at 75 mph on the freeway, the speed limit in many (most?) states. At 65 mph or below one ought to be able to get fifty miles in cold winter places and 70 miles in warm weather areas.
Also, the mileage parameters dont fit my experience:
I charge to 80%, drive a roundtrip of 50-52 miles and get home with two bars and about 20-25 miles left.

Just my view.
My numbers were intended to be conservative to avoid range anxiety. As you likely know, there are people who have sold their LEAFs due to range anxiety and unrealistic expectations of the range.

I also have no patience whatsoever for the hypermilers who assume that everyone can and should get the same extreme mileage they do. I also get better mileage than the limits I used in the flow chart due, in part, to living at high altitude, but that's hardly a factor that affects most people. Neither is hypermiling. Another factor to consider is what mileage will be like in a few years when batteries lose capacity. Hence my conservative numbers.

Yes there are plenty of people who could make a LEAF work for their lifestyle if they tried hard enough, as I am doing. But I'm aiming at the people for whom a LEAF would be a "no-brainer". I figure that there must be millions of two+ car households who could use a LEAF as a primary car and a conventional ICE car as a secondary car, as is the case for so many of us here.
 
lpickup said:
Would like to see a line from the box that asks if your residence has a garage or access to power leading to the box that asks whether you have access to charging at work. I know of at least two other owners that at least started out this way (charging only at work, and occasionally at 120 at home). Having said that, at least one is getting a full L2 EVSE.
I decided not to go that route because it isn't too realistic for an average LEAF buyer. Relying on workplace (or public) charging alone would be for the truly committed, not a typical potential buyer, for whom convenience would be a major selling point.
 
LTLFTcomposite said:
You could add a decision point for something like "how predictable are your needs?". If you are out on a sales call and you are told you have to cover an urgent meeting in two hours with another customer 60 miles away it could be a problem. I hear this excuse a lot, not sure how much it really happens to people, maybe they just have an inflated sense of self-importance.
I'm hoping that such people will "self-select" and decide that either the LEAF won't fit their needs or that they could take their ICE car when such a situation is likely to come up.

As you suggest, surely the large majority of people have relatively predictable driving itineraries and those that don't won't consider a LEAF.
 
I too like your flowchart. You should add lease payments. I wouldn't spend $30 grand to buy a Leaf, but I would spend $200 to $300 per month to lease one.
 
There does need to be a decision/discussion on Lease vs Own with the current flowchart for Leases only. The other decision point would be high heat considerations. I'd like Stoaty's input on basically if you live in the following high heat locations xyz, you should not buy only lease. Or something to address battery degradation on range due to high heat. I would say that KC or maybe Dallas are really about the highest level of extreme heat you should consider and even Dallas may be too hot for purchase. KC may not even be ok if you require more than 40 miles winter with heat after 3-5 years of battery degradation. Last night range went from 12 bars to 2 bars for 30 mile round trip with the heat blowing and 0*F temps w/3 passengers.

The Own decision tree needs to be based on a sample of range from the 5 year battery degradation as the starting point and then apply additional heating/cooling factors.

Overall though this is a great start.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top