Just bought my used 2011 Leaf

[doberman]

I just purchased my 2011 Leaf SL! We decided to purchase because the cost for a lease was about the same, a bit more, but this was we could just own the car afterwards and after its paid off get my wife a new car.

Here is one of my fav pics from the little photo shoot I did recently! Such a great car to drive. I got rid of my 2011 SUV that was getting about 16-17mpg, costing about $80 every week-and-half for me to drive to and from work, and maybe a few errands.

We really like the car. We seem to get between 78-88 miles on a 100% charge - Ive read it varies because it determines the range based on previous driving style...not sure how true that is. The quiteness never gets old. I have friends who have Tesla's, and I love driving them, but I cant afford one yet. So for now, I got the Leaf - and I really love driving it!

We are planning on getting a 240v 50amp outlet put in to charge it up quicker. This one did Not have the Quick charge port. We live in the midwest, there are No quick charge stations within 500 miles of us. We have very few public charging stations either. But there seems to be alot of interest in developing the infrastructure here. The car also came with the upgraded evse cable, which was quite the bonus. Drives great, every bit as fun to drive as the 2013 we test drove.

So far this car has been great to drive! Even with a/c on, I still get good range - I havent gotten less than 60 miles with the a/c on. I call it a poor mans Tesla!

I read here that there is a software upgrade - and a possible easier chance of getting a battery warranty covered for 2011-2012 owners! So, I am hoping these both work to my advantage.

 

[surfingslovak]

We live in the midwest, there are No quick charge stations within 500 miles of us.

Congrats! Where in the Midwest?

 

[planet4ever]

We seem to get between 78-88 miles on a 100% charge - Ive read it varies because it determines the range based on previous driving style...not sure how true that is.

I think what you are saying is that the big number on the dash claims you will get 78-88 miles. That number is typically very optimistic on 2011-2012 cars when the battery is full, so don't try any 80 mile, or even 70 mile, trips until you know how far you can really go.

Since you have bought a used car, the really important thing for you to do is to count the little skinny bars at the far right edge of the dash. The bottom two are red, and the others white. These are separate from the wide blue and white bars just to their left. The skinny ones tell how much capacity the battery has, and a new car will have 12 bars, including the two red ones. The wide ones are charge bars that tell how full the battery is, and you will always see 12 there when you charge to 100%, no matter how much the battery can hold. If you have fewer than 12 capacity bars your actual range will be significantly restricted even when you start with 12 charge bars.

Even with a/c on, I still get good range - I havent gotten less than 60 miles with the a/c on.

Yes, the A/C is very efficient, but are you saying that you have actually traveled at least 60 miles each time before charging the car? I have to ask again, because (a) with the GuessOMeter starting at 78-88 I would expect all twelve of the blue and white charge bars to be gone by the time you had gone 60 miles, and (b) it would probably take at least 15 hours to charge at 120v after driving it that far.

Ray

 

[mwalsh]

Congrats!

40A breaker for a 30A EVSE...nothing bigger needed. But the 2011 LEAF only charges at 16A. So if you only end up with a 16A EVSE, you really only need a 20A breaker. Too large a breaker and it may not trip in the eventuality that a problem occurs.

 

[planet4ever]

Good point, Mike. In fact he already has a 16A (or possibly 12A) EVSE:

The car also came with the upgraded evse cable, which was quite the bonus.

As mwalsh says, 16A is the fastest your car can accept 240v electricity. Even 12A would charge it from empty to full while you sleep. 12A is all I have and all I have ever needed. 16A wouldn't charge a Tesla overnight from empty to full, but even with a Tesla it would give an honest range of 100 miles per day in about 8 hours per night, so I don't see the point of "future proofing" by going with outlandishly high amperages. For most people the only rationale I can see for putting in a 50A outlet would be if you were going to buy a high powered EVSE that came with a 50A plug. Since you already have an upgraded 2011 trickle EVSE, just put in the L6-20 outlet that matches its plug, along with a 240v 20A breaker.

Ray

 

[doberman]

Thanks for the replies! I was a little worried about buying a used Leaf to be honest. The degradation of the battery was my primary concern - but our area doesnt get nearly as hot as Arizona, and the car seemed to be driven lightly. The car has 19k miles and I got it for $19k...For the value, I think it was a pretty decent buy. Sure, I could have went with the 2013, but for less money - I felt that the 2011 was the right move. Plus, I didnt want a lease.

Congrats! Where in the Midwest?

Neb

so don't try any 80 mile, or even 70 mile, trips until you know how far you can really go.

We drove home from the dealership, the range indicator showed 58 miles, nice of the dealer not to give it to us with a 100% charge right?...The drive home is around 50 miles - all highway (highway speed is 75mph) - we made it home with 4 miles to spare. I dont think we will take the Leaf on any trips longer than 60 miles.

the really important thing for you to do is to count the little skinny bars at the far right edge of the dash.

I believe I have all 12 (10 white, 2 red). Will post a picture shortly to get confirmation.

Any thoughts on why I see a variety of range numbers, even with 100% charge?

it would probably take at least 15 hours to charge at 120v after driving it that far.

Lately I havent gone below 30 miles remiaing, and I trickle charge on a 120v overnight gets me back to 100%. But I am wanting to get the 240v for the times I do need a quicker charge, which I am sure will occur more-so on the weekends.

the 2011 LEAF only charges at 16A

So, if I purchase a charging station that is capable of 30amps, the car will only charge at 16amps? I could have swore I read that the 2011 had a max of 30amps. I am new to this, so its likely I mis-read. The price on a 240v 20amp and a 240v 50amp, is essentially the same ($320)...Would it not be advantageous to go with the 50amp? The Nissan Dealerships have the Aerovironment stations, that I believe charge at 30amps - I charged up at a dealership recently, and had no problems - car seemed to charge quickly


Do you think there is any potential for me to benefit from the software update and possible update to the battery warranty from Nissan?

 

[mwalsh]

So, if I purchase a charging station that is capable of 30amps, the car will only charge at 16amps? I could have swore I read that the 2011 had a max of 30amps. I am new to this, so its likely I mis-read. The price on a 240v 20amp and a 240v 50amp, is essentially the same ($320)...Would it not be advantageous to go with the 50amp? The Nissan Dealerships have the Aerovironment stations, that I believe charge at 30amps - I charged up at a dealership recently, and had no problems - car seemed to charge quickly

3.8kW (the most you'll see the 2011 draw on any public charger) / 240V = 16A. That's all you get. What you're doing by buying a 30A (or greater) EVSE is future proofing that purchase for when you have a car that CAN draw more. Like a 2013 LEAF with 6kW charging (~25A).

If you're having a new outlet and wiring installed, I don't see any problem with making sure the wiring is capable of taking 50A, but I would only put in a breaker that is 20% above your continuous load. But I'm not an electrician, so please obtain confirmation from one.

 

[Reddy]

Congratulations and welcome. Read and learn everything you need here at MNL. Since you have the evseupgrade, put in an L6-20 plug (240 V, 20 Amp) and skip the charging station. No matter what you plug it into, the stock 2011 Leaf will not charge above 16 amp 240 V except with the DCQC port (480 V, 100 A). There are lots of threads on these and other subjects, just do a search and wander around. You'll learn a huge amount. Since you bought and want the battery to last the longest, I highly recommend:
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=5508&hilit=Stoaty's

 

[doberman]

Here is the photo of my Battery bars...all 12 of em!

 

[RegGuheert]

Here is the photo of my Battery bars...all 12 of em!

That's good news!

Congratulations on your new LEAF! And welcome!

 

[smkettner]

I hope those bars last more than a few hot summer months.
Congrats on the purchase and enjoy your econo-Tesla

 

[planet4ever]

Any thoughts on why I see a variety of range numbers, even with 100% charge

Yes. You are looking at what we on this board call the GuessOMeter, or GOM. The computer in the car is looking at an estimate (which itself may not be too accurate) of how much energy you have in your battery, and noting what kind of mileage you have been getting, and guessing that you will continue driving the way you have been, and coming up with a wild range guess. A big part of the problem in the 2011-2012 cars, perhaps corrected in 2013, is that it seems to use a very narrow window for "have been getting" and "have been driving". So if you live downhill from the freeway you use getting home the car may assume you will be going downhill all day! If you normally drive 70 but your last five miles getting home are at 25-35, it is likely to guess that the next day's driving will all be at low speeds.

You are much better off, at least until you get close to empty, by ignoring the GOM and watching the charge bars. Print yourself a copy of this very useful chart: Nissan LEAF Range Chart for 24kWh Battery

Ray

 

[Publius]

Lately I havent gone below 30 miles remiaing, and I trickle charge on a 120v overnight gets me back to 100%.
Do you think there is any potential for me to benefit from the software update and possible update to the battery warranty from Nissan?

Mynissanleaf.com is a wealth of knowledge. As others have said, take some time and peruse the forum. You'll learn a lot. For example, you may not want to charge to 100% if you don't think it's necessary. It's harder on the battery than charging to 80%, especially if you are leaving it at a high state of charge for an extended period of time (charging it to 100% and letting it sit).

 

[doberman]

I hope those bars last more than a few hot summer months.
Congrats on the purchase and enjoy your econo-Tesla

Thanks! I like that - Econo-Tesla! lol I hope the bars last longer too my friend. But if I understand correctly, if i get 9 bars or less, according to this new warranty and software update it get a warranty swap

Yes. You are looking at what we on this board call the GuessOMeter, or GOM.

You are much better off, at least until you get close to empty, by ignoring the GOM and watching the charge bars. Print yourself a copy of this very useful chart: Nissan LEAF Range Chart for 24kWh Battery
Ray

My wife LOL'd at your "GuessOMeter"! Thats what I figured. Thanks for the chart - seems like a fair assessment on the range

 

[TimLee]

We are planning on getting a 240v 50amp outlet put in to charge it up quicker.

One of the more extensive detailed discussions about code compliance for EVSE installation is at http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=13158#p298921" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.
If the distance from your power panel to the EVSE location is fairly modest, installing a higher capacity circuit than you currently need now really doesn't make much sense just for "future proofing" the installation.
So for a modest distance from the power panel and if what you are going to use is the evseupgrade, put in an L6-20 plug (240 V, 20 Amp).
If the distance to the power panel is fairly long and costly to install, then future proofing might be worth considering. But the best and most proper way to do that is to install a subpanel at the location where the EVSE is located. The sub-panel currently would just feed the L6-20 plug (240 V, 20 Amp) circuit you currently need. But if your main panel has the capacity for it, and you install correct capacity circuit to the sub-panel, then at a future point you could add another circuit and outlet for a higher capacity EVSE in the future.

 

[planet4ever]

If the distance to the power panel is fairly long and costly to install, then future proofing might be worth considering. But the best and most proper way to do that is to install a subpanel at the location where the EVSE is located. The sub-panel currently would just feed the L6-20 plug (240 V, 20 Amp) circuit you currently need. But if your main panel has the capacity for it, and you install correct capacity circuit to the sub-panel, then at a future point you could add another circuit and outlet for a higher capacity EVSE in the future.

Excellent suggestion, Tim. The more important future proofing may well turn out to be the ability to charge two EVs at the same time.

Ray

 

[ERG4ALL]

There is one case for getting a 50A 240V circuit for "future proofing". If your future may include a Tesla, they have an option that puts two 20A chargers in the car that requires a 50A circuit. However, it is true that too high of a breaker may not trip if there is a problem. It might be possible to put in the 50A circuit and then swap out the 50A breaker with a 40A breaker until you get the Tesla. The wiring part of installation is the greatest cost and you only want to do that once.

In my case I was building the garage at the same time we were getting ready for our LEAF. I had put in a 30A circuit as Nissan originally had specified when the program was getting started. Then Ford came out with their ad that their 6.6 kW charger would charge in half the time of a LEAF with the 3.3 kW charger. Nissan then upped the spec. to a 40A circuit. I had to remove the #10 ga. wire and put in #8. Fortunately, that was just before I put up the drywall.

Also, I was lucky from the standpoint that I put in a 50A circuit for my big stick welder so if I win the lottery, I can charge the Tesla.

 

[gaswalla]

The ev rav4 is an econo-tesla
The leaf is a leaf

 

[HighDesertDriver]

Congratulations on your new 2011 Leaf! Glad to see you have 12 capacity bars. Now may be a good time to consider getting a bit more insight into your battery's ongoing health with a small add-on device. The following information was clipped from Garygid's post in another thread:

What is available now:

The original GID-Meter is still available.
Several nicely-done smaller variations are also available.
The CANary is a larger, two-screen touch-screen DIY device.
The LEAF-Battery App for Android is very nice, using off-the-shelf hardware.

All of these are pictured, described, and discussed in the LEAF CANbus sub-forum of Accessories/Mods.

We've been very pleased with our "nicely-done smaller variation", a Leaf-DD from GregH.