Nissan L1 EVSE third-party upgrade to both 120V and 240V

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How to get a UK 240v EVSE:
Go to the dealer's service department around lunch-break time and ask,
"Pardon me, but do you have the LEAF's charge-cord in stock?".

If they indicate that they do, then state something like: ...
"Good'o, I'll be buying at yer local pub!". :lol:
 
AmarilloLeaf said:
mwalsh said:
Yanquetino said:
So the second part of your question - buying a European set and removing the plug in favor of a US 240v plug of some description - I can't imagine why that's not possible.

It is also 50Hz instead of 60Hz. Perhaps someone can bring home a Nissan charger from the UK and see?

That won't matter. It only really matters with things that have a frequency driven clock or motor.

I have seen instances where the longevity of some European devices I've owned appears to have been negatively affected by long-term use on 240v/60hz, in that they've broken down in advance of what I'd expect their normal lifespan to be, but I have no conclusive evidence that this is the case. It might just have been bad luck.
 
I have the upgrade and just got the adapters so I could test it with my NEMA 14-30 outlet in addition to the NEMA 5-20. I works very well both at 120v and 240v.
 
nater said:
Ingineer, have you looked at the Volt charger at all? It's selectable for 8 or 12 amps; I'm curious if it's ready for 240.

It's in the same boat, 120v only. We are looking at offering an upgrade on it soon as well.

Many volt owners report high temps during use, so we are going to investigate this issue also.

-Phil
 
Whew! Just read through all the numerous pages of this thread. Hope people don't mind the length of my post, but I do have questions to clarify things and it sounds like it would be better for me to post here instead of PM'ing so other newbies like me can learn. I have bolded the key questions.

First - thanks to Phil (Ingineer) for his hard work and providing this L1 to L2 mod. This is a godsend.
Second - thanks to all other posters for their discussion as it has helped clear up some issues for me although often the technical details went way over my head.
Third - I suspect there are a lot of newbie lurkers with little electrical knowledge (like myself) who are following this thread and are a bit confused like me. One reason I can say this - Fontana Nissan where I picked up my car 4 days ago actually mentioned that this modification is out there and pointed me to the forum. I believe they are telling all Leaf buyers about this. I hope that doesn't scare you off Phil, but the volume of orders might increase soon.

I currently do NOT have a Level 2 EVSE for the Leaf at home right now as my ClipperCreek is still being used for my MiniE.
At some point I expect that will be changed over to J1772 (by me or BMW if I participate in the ActiveE trial).
For now I have been charging with the L1 charger which is ok, but not ideal.

Ok - so like everyone else I would love to have 240V (L2) charging for my Leaf at a reasonable cost for the device. The portability Phil's mod allows for is a big plus.

I plan to order Phil's mod and send my L1 charger in. I would order the $223 EVSE Upgrade with NEMA L6-20 and 120V Adapter so I can continue charging at 120V if needed.
I do not feel the need for other adapters, although I might be incorrect based on my questions below?

PORTABILITY / QUICK220 questions
1) I have not seen anyone post whether they have used Phil's mod with a Quick220 but I assume it would work fine.
However, here is my first main question: Which product from Quick220? Here is the catalog site:

http://www.quick220.com/220_catalog.htm

The Model A220-15D Version 2 (15A, 3450 W) listed for $160 sounds like a reasonable option, however, it is has NEMA 6-15 outlets. Does one simply purchase an adapter (L6-20 to 6-15) and put it on this model? Or does one buy the Model A220-20L Version 2 (20A, 4600W) $185 which has NEMA L6-20 outlets? Finally, their Package P102 ($240) includes the A220-20L with extension cord and adapters typically used:

http://www.quick220.com/Merchant5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=quick220&Product_Code=-P-102


2) The Quick220 information suggests that it is best to plug the device into two INDEPENDENT 120V outlets (makes sense) which are GFCI. Obviously, this is the safest approach and they provide an outlet tester to help determine all of this - however, do people feel the 120v outlets should be GFCI? Prevents arcing (whatever that is)? What if you tacked on one of those auxiliary GFCI adapters on the 120V outlet - is that acceptable? Also, what about the fact that you would need at least one long extension cord to hook up to the other independent outlet? Doesn't all this added length increase your resistance?


240V OUTLET QUESTION
3) A good solution is to have an electrician hardwire a 240V outlet (NEMA L6-20? or something else?) into my garage so the Quick220 would only be used for portability. I am not technically capable of doing this myself. Any estimates on how much this might cost? I have an easily accessible 60A subpanel in the garage with open 15A and 20A breakers. The outlet would be 3 feet below the subpanel requiring minimal wire length. More importantly - anyone have an electrician in the San Gabriel Valley (CA) they can recommend?


I apologize if people believe the prior 53 pages of discussion answered my above questions (or another thread), but I really didn't see the answers to the Quick220 issues I ask about above.
 
wq2345 said:
Whew! Just read through all the numerous pages of this thread. Hope people don't mind the length of my post, but I do have questions to clarify things and it sounds like it would be better for me to post here instead of PM'ing so other newbies like me can learn. I have bolded the key questions.

First - thanks to Phil (Ingineer) for his hard work and providing this L1 to L2 mod. This is a godsend.
Second - thanks to all other posters for their discussion as it has helped clear up some issues for me although often the technical details went way over my head.
Third - I suspect there are a lot of newbie lurkers with little electrical knowledge (like myself) who are following this thread and are a bit confused like me. One reason I can say this - Fontana Nissan where I picked up my car 4 days ago actually mentioned that this modification is out there and pointed me to the forum. I believe they are telling all Leaf buyers about this. I hope that doesn't scare you off Phil, but the volume of orders might increase soon.

Thanks! So far I think we can handle all the volume as long as I can reduce admin overload.

Posting here is much preferred, rather than sending me personal emails, so thanks for helping reduce my workload! =)

wq2345 said:
I currently do NOT have a Level 2 EVSE for the Leaf at home right now as my ClipperCreek is still being used for my MiniE.
At some point I expect that will be changed over to J1772 (by me or BMW if I participate in the ActiveE trial).
For now I have been charging with the L1 charger which is ok, but not ideal.

Ok - so like everyone else I would love to have 240V (L2) charging for my Leaf at a reasonable cost for the device. The portability Phil's mod allows for is a big plus.

I plan to order Phil's mod and send my L1 charger in. I would order the $223 EVSE Upgrade with NEMA L6-20 and 120V Adapter so I can continue charging at 120V if needed.
I do not feel the need for other adapters, although I might be incorrect based on my questions below?

PORTABILITY / QUICK220 questions
1) I have not seen anyone post whether they have used Phil's mod with a Quick220 but I assume it would work fine.
However, here is my first main question: Which product from Quick220? Here is the catalog site:

http://www.quick220.com/220_catalog.htm

The Model A220-15D Version 2 (15A, 3450 W) listed for $160 sounds like a reasonable option, however, it is has NEMA 6-15 outlets. Does one simply purchase an adapter (L6-20 to 6-15) and put it on this model? Or does one buy the Model A220-20L Version 2 (20A, 4600W) $185 which has NEMA L6-20 outlets? Finally, their Package P102 ($240) includes the A220-20L with extension cord and adapters typically used:

http://www.quick220.com/Merchant5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=quick220&Product_Code=-P-102


2) The Quick220 information suggests that it is best to plug the device into two INDEPENDENT 120V outlets (makes sense) which are GFCI. Obviously, this is the safest approach and they provide an outlet tester to help determine all of this - however, do people feel the 120v outlets should be GFCI? Prevents arcing (whatever that is)? What if you tacked on one of those auxiliary GFCI adapters on the 120V outlet - is that acceptable? Also, what about the fact that you would need at least one long extension cord to hook up to the other independent outlet? Doesn't all this added length increase your resistance?

First off, you ABSOLUTELY CAN NOT plug either of the "Quick220" plugs into a GFCI protected outlet or it will trip instantly! You must find a "standard" unprotected outlet to use the Q220.

Secondly, I recommend the A220-20L version that comes equipped with the NEMA L6-20 outlet, this is the simplest and most convenient, but does carry a $25 premium over their $160 base model. The other option is to buy the base model with the NEMA 6-15 and simply make an adapter to go from that to L6-20 (use one of our pigtail ends).

wq2345 said:
240V OUTLET QUESTION
3) A good solution is to have an electrician hardwire a 240V outlet (NEMA L6-20? or something else?) into my garage so the Quick220 would only be used for portability. I am not technically capable of doing this myself. Any estimates on how much this might cost? I have an easily accessible 60A subpanel in the garage with open 15A and 20A breakers. The outlet would be 3 feet below the subpanel requiring minimal wire length. More importantly - anyone have an electrician in the San Gabriel Valley (CA) they can recommend?


I apologize if people believe the prior 53 pages of discussion answered my above questions (or another thread), but I really didn't see the answers to the Quick220 issues I ask about above.

I recommend an L6-20 outlet protected by a dual-pole 20A breaker. It's very easy, but it requires 2 adjacent breaker slots.

-Phil
 
Thanks for the quick reply Phil.

Ingineer said:
First off, you ABSOLUTELY CAN NOT plug either of the "Quick220" plugs into a GFCI protected outlet or it will trip instantly! You must find a "standard" unprotected outlet to use the Q220.
Very helpful. That makes life easy.
Dumb question: I have four wall outlets clustered together. I assume they are not independent of each other and if I plugged the two Quick220 120V into these it would be a bad idea -- correct?
I have other 120V outlets in the garage and I can run the 2nd one via a good 120V extension cord - that would be preferable I assume? Or does it not make a difference really?
Of course, once I have a hard-wired outlet I would only use the Quick220 when on the go.
Ingineer said:
Secondly, I recommend the A220-20L version that comes equipped with the NEMA L6-20 outlet, this is the simplest and most convenient, but does carry a $25 premium over their $160 base model. The other option is to buy the base model with the NEMA 6-15 and simply make an adapter to go from that to L6-20 (use one of our pigtail ends).
Again, very helpful. The A220-20L makes sense. I will call them tomorrow to find out about availability etc. and can report back to the forum.
Might just go for the P-102 package so I get the additional extension cord and adapters along with the A220-20L
Ingineer said:
I recommend an L6-20 outlet protected by a dual-pole 20A breaker. It's very easy, but it requires 2 adjacent breaker slots.
I do have the space for that. Now to get find a reasonable electrician to hardwire it.

Thanks again Phil. Ordering the EVSE Upgrade now.
 
Phil,
I am very interested in your mod. I had considered one of my own but it's so much easier to let you do it, especially the de-potting part. :) Me thinks I'll be doing this soon.
 
wq2345 said:
Dumb question: I have four wall outlets clustered together. I assume they are not independent of each other and if I plugged the two Quick220 120V into these it would be a bad idea -- correct?
One of the main functions of the Quick220 is to test the 120v circuits to see whether they are suitable. If you plug it in to two outlets on the same circuit, it will simply indicate that, and you will have to try a different combination.
 
wq2345 said:
Dumb question: I have four wall outlets clustered together. I assume they are not independent of each other and if I plugged the two Quick220 120V into these it would be a bad idea -- correct?
The Quick220 website says that it will not activate the circuit if it detects that both 120V outlets it's plugged in to are on the same circuit or phase. If the outlets are close together, it's likely that they are on the same circuit, but you can never tell unless you've mapped them out.
wq2345 said:
I have other 120V outlets in the garage and I can run the 2nd one via a good 120V extension cord - that would be preferable I assume? Or does it not make a difference really?
It's always preferable to use the shortest extension cord possible and to use outlets that are as close as possible to your main panel.
 
1. I told Danny, Joanne, and Alex at Fontana about the L1 EVSE mod last tuesday when I picked up "Maple" (my LEAF). They quickly understood the considerable utility of the added 240v charging capability, using short adapter cords. I am pleased to hear that they are now telling their customers about "The L1 EVSE Mod".

2. A cluster of "four 120v sockets" is usually dual (two) duplex receptacles, where each duplex has 2 places (sockets) to plug into.

Sometimes these are instaled with one duplex receptacle wired to one 120v phase, and the other duplex receptacle wired to the other 120v phase, so there is 240 volts available by using one socket from the right pair, and one socket from the left pair. Careful use of an inexpensive voltmeter (or VOM) allows checking what is available. The smaller flat, vertical slot SHOULD be the "hot" wire.

The dual duplex receptacles right near my dryer 240v wall socket (receptacle) are wired that way, so it is very easy for me to conect the modified EVSE there.

3. I have ordered a spare EVSE (modified). After I get it, I will then send in my "included" L1 EVSE to have it modified. Then, one will ride with the car, and the other (for convenience) will stay connected to a 240v "utility" socket (L6-20R) in the garage (connected to a 20 amp dual-breaker).
 
wq2345 said:
Dumb question: I have four wall outlets clustered together. I assume they are not independent of each other and if I plugged the two Quick220 120V into these it would be a bad idea -- correct?
I have other 120V outlets in the garage and I can run the 2nd one via a good 120V extension cord - that would be preferable I assume? Or does it not make a difference really?
Of course, once I have a hard-wired outlet I would only use the Quick220 when on the go.

You don't need any extra tools or testers, as the Q220 has an indicator light on it. Once you've found the "magic" 2 outlets, the light will come on. There will be no harm in playing what-if on random outlets. My only safety advice is to make sure the plugs fit into the outlets tightly. If the outlets are old and worn-out such that it feels like the plug just may fall out, DON'T USE IT! If you are unlucky, The added resistance while pulling 12 amps could generate excessive heat and possibly even start a fire, or at the very least melt the plug on the Q220. The branch circuit breaker will not protect against this kind of fault!

Try and keep all wiring to a minimum for fastest charging, and if you must end up with more than a few feet of unused cable, spread it out rather than keeping it all in a tight loop or bundle.

-Phil
 
garygid said:
1. I told Danny, Joanne, and Alex at Fontana about the L1 EVSE mod last tuesday when I picked up "Maple" (my LEAF). They quickly understood the considerable utility of the added 240v charging capability, using short adapter cords. I am pleased to hear that they are now telling their customers about "The L1 EVSE Mod".

Thanks Gary!

garygid said:
Sometimes these are instaled with one duplex receptacle wired to one 120v phase, and the other duplex receptacle wired to the other 120v phase, so there is 240 volts available by using one socket from the right pair, and one socket from the left pair.

Note that unless you are in a commercial setting, you only have a single phase. It's best to refer to this as "The other leg", L1/L2, Black/Red, etc, because it's actually the same Phase.

garygid said:
Careful use of an inexpensive voltmeter (or VOM) allows checking what is available. The smaller flat, vertical slot SHOULD be the "hot" wire.

Not even needed with the Q220, as it has an indicator light that will tell when you hit 240v paydirt! =)

-Phil
 
garygid said:
Quick220 costs maybe $200, voltmeter (only for those competent to use it around "high" voltage) costs $5 at a Harbor Freight store.

Gary, are you suggesting people build a simple "Y" cable without the safety features of Q220?!

I do not advise this! It's probably the single most dangerous suggestion you've ever made. If you implement such a device someone's child ever finds one of the plugs and pulls it out, one of the blades will then have 120v over ground. Imagine a small child putting that in their mouth!

The Q220 has relays to prevent the "backfeed".

-Phil
 
Ingineer said:
Gary, are you suggesting people build a simple "Y" cable without the safety features of Q220?!
Gary is just suggesting that before you buy a Quick 220, if you are competent to use a voltmeter on line power, you can check whether the Quick 220 will work with two given adjacent receptacles.

Cheers, Wayne
 
greenleaf said:
I am thinking of getting the mod for my EVSE. Would it void the Nissan warranty?
The warranty on the EVSE, definitely, although Phil offers his own warranty, I think. On the car...my understanding is the warranty has to cover problems unless they can PROVE that third party service or parts (in this case, the modified EVSE) caused the damage they don't want to cover.
 
A week ago we took possession (with a three year lease) of the Starship, aka a Silver LEAF with the DC Fast Charge Port. We live in the San Francisco Bay Area, on the Northern edge of "Silicon Valley".

I figured the DC port would help make the car useful for mid-range weekend travel, say 100-150 miles one way (with a DC "add 80 miles of range in 25 minutes" charge along the way) for overnights in Monterey, Yosemite, etc.

But now I'm thinking that unless the EV Project really gets going, the L3 Station Network may not materialize until the last part of our lease.

So to test the next two year's "weekend road trip" waters, this past weekend my wife & I did an overnight trip to a friend's house which is about 4 miles outside Sonoma (near the top of a 1,200 ft. hill, BTW!), 75 road miles one way from our home.

Including a disastrous 6 mile side trip to a ChargePoint L2 EVSE :evil: (which was "out of service" even though the ChargePoint iPhone app and webpage showed it to be available) on Saturday and a successful Sunday morning coffee run into Sonoma, we drove a total of 165 miles in two days, arriving at each day's destination with an average of a little less than 3 bars (of 12) remaining on the battery display.

Note that we did get a "stage 1" Low Battery warning from the LEAF just past the base of the final 2 mile, 1,000 ft. hill.

And we got the Stage 2 warning (where the "remaining miles" display turns to dashes) pulling into our friend's garage. :roll:

Thankfully Turtle Mode was avoided although I figured it was in play after the ChargePoint station debacle; my intuition that we would benefit from an L2 "splash & dash over a latte" at the San Rafael ChargePoint station turned out to be realistic.

(I reasoned that if TM occurred near or anywhere on "The Hill", I would turn around and putter 2 miles into Sonoma and beg for a 240V socket somewhere.)

Note that I drove 56 mph on the highway and the speed limit in towns given that:

a) two hours of seat time is fine with me, and ...

b) most of our driving was going to be in hilly terrain (e.g., Interstate 280, San Francisco's 19th avenue, the Golden Gate Bridge and Waldo Grade, Rt 101 to Novato, and the hill that our friend's house is built on) such that the over-the-road distance of 75 miles would really be closer to 85-95 equivalent miles.

I had already put 300 miles on the LEAF doing errands around the Bay and had been averaging well over 4 miles per kWh including lots of freeway miles.

IMHO, this trip would not have been practical (given that there are no L2's in Sonoma and our friend does not have an L2 charger) without Phil's 240v Upgrade to Nissan's L1 EVSE.

The 240V upgrade opens up leisurely travel for mid-range distances because L2 charging (adding 12-13 miles to your range per hour of charging) is really only useful overnight (rather than during the day of a 75-80 mile trip, unless you find an L2 at a really interesting place), and 120v overnight charging at a residential destination cannot completely refill the battery for the next day's travel if you are arriving at your overnight destination with a nearly empty battery (stock Nissan L1 charging adding only 5-6 miles of range per hour of charging).

In our case we added 20 kWh (80+ highway miles (at 56 mph)) to our battery in 8.5 hours of overnight charging using the modded Nissan L1 charger in our friend's garage (using a 240V circuit with a NEMA 6-20 receptacle).

And had enough confidence in the reasonably fast charging rate of the modded EVSE to do an 8 mile RT coffee run with our friends the next morning (including a battery sapping return up their hill) before topping off with a 1.5 hour charge and heading home.

Thanks, Phil, for this terrific addition to our LEAF's bag of tricks. :)
 
rclams said:
The 240V upgrade opens up leisurely travel for mid-range distances because L2 charging (adding 12-13 miles to your range per hour of charging) is really only useful overnight (rather than during the day of a 75-80 mile trip, unless you find an L2 at a really interesting place), and 120v overnight charging at a residential destination cannot completely refill the battery for the next day's travel if you are arriving at your overnight destination with a nearly empty battery (stock Nissan L1 charging adding only 5-6 miles of range per hour of charging).
First let me say I think what Phil has done is great, and I'm planning to get an upgraded unit from him.

Now, in the interest of accuracy, I want to point out two things:
  • Phil's unit won't give you 12-13 miles per charging hour. More like 9-10 miles. It's still limited to 12 amps, just at double the voltage, so double the miles of 120v.
  • You can normally make daily hops of up to as far as you dare go on a full battery, even when charging at 120v. Each hop will take you less than two hours, and each day still has 24 hours in it. So that leaves you with 22 hours of charging time at each overnight destination, assuming you show off your car by letting your host take a short test drive but use their car when you go out for dinner and an evening at the night club.

Ray
 
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