OpenEVSE - Open Source Charging Station

[chris1howell]

Can I haz enclosure?

Does he have one in "throwback" clear plexiglass?

Yes, I will post purchase info as soon as I get it.

No clear, just metal for now...

 

[garygid]

Best for indoor only use, not a weatherproof enclosure, right?

 

[borland]

I was thinking about a similar project box, however using a NEMA 4X polycarbonate enclosure with clear cover and custom graphic overlay. This would be suitable for both indoor and outdoor service.

Here’s what I had in mind. Bud Industries Inc., makes two such enclosures that could utilize the same cover graphic overlay.

The smaller enclosure would be good wall mounted installations and for up to 32amp builds, while the larger enclosure would support 75amp builds that require a larger contactor.

These are the Bud part number’s and outside dimensions:
PN-1340-C (6.3”x9.5”x3.5”)
PN-1341-C (6.3”x9.5”x4.72”)

These are: Style 2 - Light gray polycarbonate body and clear polycarbonate cover. Body/Cover - UV stabilized UL94-HB flammability rating suggested service temperature -40C to 120C.

Here are the manufacturer’s drawings for these boxes..

http://www.budind.com/pdf/hb1340.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.budind.com/pdf/hb1341.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Here’s a link to the manufacturer’s product web page..

http://www.budind.com/view/NEMA+Boxes/NEMA+4x" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Both also utilize the same optional aluminum interior mounting panel and optional wall mounting brackets.

Costs for all parts vary depending where sourced:

http://octopart.com/pn-1340-c-bud+industries-56588" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://octopart.com/pn-1341-c-bud+industries-21431" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://octopart.com/pnx-91440-bud+industries-20046554" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://octopart.com/mb-1390-lg-bud+industries-14872" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Lexan (polycarbonate) graphic overlays with adhesive backing could be purchased for under $7.00 each with order quantities of 100 (that’s the online quote for: 10mil Clear Lexan, two colors, two cutouts for one button and the LCD display, supplied in individual pieces). $700 is a pretty big order for someone to take a bite on and not be sure about getting them all sold. At least that’s my estimate from looking at a price quote from this printer’s web site.

http://www.my1stop.com/Graphic-Overlays.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

My1stop.com requires artwork in Adobe CMYK file format. I don’t have the software to create the file, but the Open Source Hardware logo art designs can be downloaded here.

http://oshwlogo.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

There are other graphic overlay printers, so prices might be better elsewhere.

Anyone have any ideas on a lower cost solution to labeling?

 

[garygid]

Possibly try http://www.vistaprint.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; because
they seem to have lots of options.

Perhaps the Small Window Decals category, about 4 inches
square, transparent background, and maybe under $4 for one.

 

[waidy]

Dear Open EVSE enthusiasts: our Open EVSEs are *almost* done. The electrician should be coming next week to do the install. We have one part left from the kit. Would you advise where this part go? It it too big for my figure

 

[Barbouri]

Dear Open EVSE enthusiasts: our Open EVSEs are *almost* done. The electrician should be coming next week to do the install. We have one part left from the kit. Would you advise where this part go? It it too big for my figure

The best place to mount the tubular ferrite inductors are where the power enters and exits the EVSE enclosure.
Below is a photo of a commercial Leviton Evr-Green 160 EVSE showing the placement in its enclosure.
If you only have one inductor place it on the AC power in.

Greg C.

 

[91040]

Oops. Beat to the punch.

That is the ferrite core. It should have the two hot wires from the power source going through it. Best place is where those wires enter the box.

Dear Open EVSE enthusiasts: our Open EVSEs are *almost* done. The electrician should be coming next week to do the install. We have one part left from the kit. Would you advise where this part go? It it too big for my figure

 

[waidy]

Dear Open EVSE enthusiasts: our Open EVSEs are *almost* done. The electrician should be coming next week to do the install. We have one part left from the kit. Would you advise where this part go? It it too big for my figure

The best place to mount the tubular ferrite inductors are where the power enters and exits the EVSE enclosure.
Below is a photo of a commercial Leviton Evr-Green 160 EVSE showing the placement in its enclosure.
If you only have one inductor place it on the AC power in.
Greg C.

Great. thanks. I will leave it for my electrician.

 

[waidy]

Question: is there a GFCI circuit in the OpenEVSE design. I looked at the schematic/block diagram but don't find any obvious hint.

 

[MashedPotato]

OpenEVSE includes GFCI functionality and should be installed on a non-GFCI circuit.

 

[waidy]

OpenEVSE includes GFCI functionality and should be installed on a non-GFCI circuit.

Thank you. I will connect our 75Amp OpenEVSE directly to the 100Amp breaker.

 

[waidy]

Our two 75Amp OpenEVSEs are complete. Darren connects one of the EVSE via a 120V cable plugged directly to a 120V 12Amp outlet. He scrolled the display (via a push button) and everything looked as expected. He then plugged in the J-connector to the Rav4EV. Display sequence was: Vehicle connected, EVSE ERROR NO GROUND. Please advise what we have done wrong.

 

[TonyWilliams]

Our two 75Amp OpenEVSEs are complete. Darren connects one of the EVSE via a 120V cable plugged directly to a 120V 12Amp outlet. He scrolled the display (via a push button) and everything looked as expected. He then plugged in the J-connector to the Rav4EV. Display sequence was: Vehicle connected, EVSE ERROR NO GROUND. Please advise what we have done wrong.

Could you try it again at 240 volts?

 

[waidy]

Our two 75Amp OpenEVSEs are complete. Darren connects one of the EVSE via a 120V cable plugged directly to a 120V 12Amp outlet. He scrolled the display (via a push button) and everything looked as expected. He then plugged in the J-connector to the Rav4EV. Display sequence was: Vehicle connected, EVSE ERROR NO GROUND. Please advise what we have done wrong.

Could you try it again at 240 volts?

OK. I will have to wait for my electrician to come for install. I will report. Thank you.

 

[garygid]

if the big relay in your 75 amp EVSE only operates
on 240v, not 120v, you should disconnect one leg of the "little relay
to the big relay", and not expect the big relay to operate, and not
try to connect to a vehicle.

Then, the 120v test should pass the Ground test only if the 120v
AC connection is 3 wires, including a ground wire to a properly
grounded 3-prong receptacle in the wall.

Yes, when I tested with 120v at the workshop, I used a 2-wire
AC connection, but I had to use the menu to disable the
Ground Check in order to demonstrate the EV Simulator
features and test the OpenEVSE Control Pilot as it would
be affected by a typical EV.

 

[waidy]

if the big relay in your 75 amp EVSE only operates on 240v, not 120v, you should disconnect one leg of the "little relay to the big relay", and not expect the big relay to operate, and not try to connect to a vehicle.

Then, the 120v test should pass the Ground test only if the 120v AC connection is 3 wires, including a round wire to a properly grounded 3-prong receptacle in the wall.

Yes, when I tested with 120v at the workshop, I used a 2-wire AC connection, but I had to use the menu to disable the Ground Check in order to demonstrate the EV Simulator features and test the OpenEVSE Control pilot as it would be affected by a typical EV.

I see. Thanks for the detail explanation and instruction on how to test via 120V 3 wires. Our 120V connection is indeed a 3-wires cable in which the ground wire was connected to the ground bar. We didn't do the re-config on the 75 Amp relays. This explains our failure.

Darren left early this morning for a ski trip and won't return Monday/Tuesday. I will post the result once it's tested and charged.

Thanks again, you guys are so resourceful.

 

[garygid]

The re-config of the 75 amp relay is only suggested to
protect the relay's coil windings and contacts which might
not operate properly at 120v. See the voltage ratings on your
relay coil to determine if it is OK to apply 120v to the relay coil.

The ground fault might be due to a missing ground wire
between the OpenEVSE controller board and the ground
strip. It should be a wire right next to the Control Pilot
connection.

Or, the 120v receptacle that you used was not properly
grounded?

 

[waidy]

The ground fault might be due to a missing ground wire between the OpenEVSE controller board and the ground strip. It should be a wire right next to the Control Pilot connection.

I looked. It is there.

The re-config of the 75 amp relay is only suggested to protect the relay's coil windings and contacts which might not operate properly at 120v. See the voltage ratings on your relay coil to determine if it is OK to apply 120v to the relay coil.

Or, the 120v receptacle that you used was not properly grounded?

I know all my outlets are grounded at the breaker box. Half of my garage outlets has GFCIs and half don't. We tried with two different non-GFCI outlets and get the "EVSE ERROR NO GROUND" massage on both cases.

Darren just suggested (remotely) that I should use one of my 240V pigtails which were made for my 2002 Rav4EV and test the unit in a 240V environment. Since I have 6-50, 14-50, and 10-50 receptacles in the garage and I have all the pigtails so it is easy to do. More-ever, the unit will never be used in 120V so perhaps trying to get it works in 120V environment is waste of time.

More later.

 

[chris1howell]

Hi Waidy... It should work fine when you plug into 240V. The test leads should be on the output of the big contactor. 120V is not enough to close the contacts, so if the contacts are open the test will fail. At 240V the contactor will close and the tests should pass...

 

[waidy]

Hi Waidy... It should work fine when you plug into 240V. The test leads should be on the output of the big contactor. 120V is not enough to close the contacts, so if the contacts are open the test will fail. At 240V the contactor will close and the tests should pass...

Yes. Darren put the test leads in. Thanks you so much for the thoughtful advise.