Daklein
Well-known member
The GOM and mi/kwh numbers will change proportional to the (front) tires diameter. The computer in the car only knows revolutions count, not actual distance. The one new tire could be a little bit larger, slightly, that the previous ones. Put them on the rear. Tire rubber will get harder with more heat cycles, although tires on a leaf hardly get hot. And the new tire probably has more rolling resistance than the OEM tires. So all of those reasons, and maybe alignment, would tend to show lower mi/kwh.
Different mi/kwh could also just be normal variation.
IMHO, the upfront cost for expensive tires is never going to pay back in electric savings, and a couple percent change in range maybe is not worth it either. Ie: paying $300 per tire for a hopefully very good rolling resistance tire, vs. close to $100 for one that's also allegedly good rolling resistance (Goodyear Assurance Fuel-Max), I'm on my second set of GDY Fuel-Max tires now. My car has the 16" wheels, so that size is usually cheaper, I think I've paid only $70-100 per tire.
If the cheap walmart tire was all that was available at the time, that's what you needed to get back on the road. Buy the tires you want going forward and sell that one on craigslist/FB for $20.
Different mi/kwh could also just be normal variation.
IMHO, the upfront cost for expensive tires is never going to pay back in electric savings, and a couple percent change in range maybe is not worth it either. Ie: paying $300 per tire for a hopefully very good rolling resistance tire, vs. close to $100 for one that's also allegedly good rolling resistance (Goodyear Assurance Fuel-Max), I'm on my second set of GDY Fuel-Max tires now. My car has the 16" wheels, so that size is usually cheaper, I think I've paid only $70-100 per tire.
If the cheap walmart tire was all that was available at the time, that's what you needed to get back on the road. Buy the tires you want going forward and sell that one on craigslist/FB for $20.