Should we buy this 2016 Nissan Leaf?

[belbel]

Hello, we're considering a 2016 used Nissan Leaf with 65K mileage and a recently replaced 40 kWh battery. The owner is asking $10,000 in cash and claims everything works; single owner and dealership servicing at regular intervals. Comes with a home charging unit and has rust proofing underneath the car by the dealership. The battery seems to be at 12 bars 208 miles in the photo. We live on the Big Island of Hawaii where inventory is low and the roads are quite hilly; on the other hand, we never have to worry about cold weather.

We've never owned an EV before and need a car mostly for local/town use, but it would be great to be able to drive 75+ miles uphill one-way drive once in a while (to destinations with public charging stations).

What are your thoughts on the price? What should we check for when vetting the vehicle (read about leaking brake cylinders being an issue), and any special things to look for when test driving? Trying to make a decision ASAP. Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you in advance for your opinion and advice!

 

[John Trindle]

Dealer rustproofing is generally considered a revenue source for the dealer and not an actual benefit for the end user, so I'd just disregard that. Does salt spray cause a noticeable rust issue in Hawaii? I'm guessing you don't salt your roads...


All the normal stuff should be checked (brakes, including disks and pads as well as the leaks you mention), tires/wheels, suspension, and half-shaft/CV joints. Inspect the interior for evidence of window seal leaks like mildew. (this is not Leaf-specific, just a result of PTSD from a recent used Ford purchase we made). Leafs are subject to a wheel hub lube and retorquing in addition to all the normal stuff.

For that much, I'd definitely invest in an ODB dongle and LeafSpy to confirm check the battery condition. Post a capture of the screens here to let the real experts evaluate the battery to make sure the 12 bars are legit and etc. These numbers might be able to indicate potential hill-climb problems but the test drive might be better.

Home charging unit a 220V/240V as well as 110V? This would be a nice-to-have though only a $200 or so value.

As a CONUS resident I can't evaluate what kind of surcharge you may pay just for living on a set of islands. The price is not terrible for us if the traction battery is healthy. so it might be a pretty great deal for you.

Disclaimer: I've done lots of reading but don't have much real world experience (yet) with Leaf. And I have a 24 KWh battery not a 40.

 

[Stanton]

The 40kWh battery pack alone is worth $10k, so if the car is in good shape (and it seems to be low miles), it's at least worth considering. However, I wouldn't by any Leaf without a LeafSpy reading; that way you can verify the battery pack type/condition/etc (should be over 100AHrs and close to 400 GIDs).

 

[belbel]

Dealer rustproofing is generally considered a revenue source for the dealer and not an actual benefit for the end user, so I'd just disregard that. Does salt spray cause a noticeable rust issue in Hawaii? I'm guessing you don't salt your roads...


All the normal stuff should be checked (brakes, including disks and pads as well as the leaks you mention), tires/wheels, suspension, and half-shaft/CV joints. Inspect the interior for evidence of window seal leaks like mildew. (this is not Leaf-specific, just a result of PTSD from a recent used Ford purchase we made). Leafs are subject to a wheel hub lube and retorquing in addition to all the normal stuff.

For that much, I'd definitely invest in an ODB dongle and LeafSpy to confirm check the battery condition. Post a capture of the screens here to let the real experts evaluate the battery to make sure the 12 bars are legit and etc. These numbers might be able to indicate potential hill-climb problems but the test drive might be better.

Home charging unit a 220V/240V as well as 110V? This would be a nice-to-have though only a $200 or so value.

As a CONUS resident I can't evaluate what kind of surcharge you may pay just for living on a set of islands. The price is not terrible for us if the traction battery is healthy. so it might be a pretty great deal for you.

Disclaimer: I've done lots of reading but don't have much real world experience (yet) with Leaf. And I have a 24 KWh battery not a 40.

Thanks so much for this. Any idea on how we'd test the brakes fluid leaks? As far as we've researched, it seems like if an owner fills up the brake fluid beforehand the leak would be virtually undetectable for the buyer...

We've purchased an ODB dongle and will definitely be using LeafSpy to confirm the battery condition.

 

[belbel]

The 40kWh battery pack alone is worth $10k, so if the car is in good shape (and it seems to be low miles), it's at least worth considering. However, I wouldn't by any Leaf without a LeafSpy reading; that way you can verify the battery pack type/condition/etc (should be over 100AHrs and close to 400 GIDs).

Was thinking the same regarding the new battery. Will definitely be testing it with LeafSpy and verify the battery. Thanks for your input!

 

[John Trindle]

Thanks so much for this. Any idea on how we'd test the brakes fluid leaks? As far as we've researched, it seems like if an owner fills up the brake fluid beforehand the leak would be virtually undetectable for the buyer...

We've purchased an ODB dongle and will definitely be using LeafSpy to confirm the battery condition.

The generic ways to check for brake master cylinder leaks include looking below the master cylinder reservoir for accumulated grime (vs. the surrounding "engine compartment") and checking the feel of the brake pedal for softness or extra travel, and for smoothness (doesn't "hang up"). You do want to check the car's behavior under hard braking (i.e. not just "B" mode regeneration, but a panic stop). This test will help reveal other problems including rusty/worn disks and ABS problems if they exist.

.If it's the wheel cylinders leaking there will be excess grime there, near the pads. Those leaks are a little easier to find. It's less likely the seller will clean off either area than to just refill the reservoir. I'm guessing a 2016 isn't quite old enough to leak internally without leaking OUT, and it's not in the recall year.

Just my opinion/experience from working on OTHER cars, without ABS by the way, so I could well be missing something.

 

[Joeaverage]

Thanks so much for this. Any idea on how we'd test the brakes fluid leaks? As far as we've researched, it seems like if an owner fills up the brake fluid beforehand the leak would be virtually undetectable for the buyer...

We've purchased an ODB dongle and will definitely be using LeafSpy to confirm the battery condition.

Any hydraulic leaks will eat paint and attract dirt. Any leaks that has been leaking for a while will be visible.

 

[nlspace]

i've never heard of brake fluid leakage being a thing for laefs--where did you guys dream that up? There has been some reports of the electric-driven brake actuator acting up, but that is not a common issue and mostly due to old, weak or worn out 12V battery.

Warm moist salty air will condense on any colder surface or metal panels, and leave a salty corrosive residue when the water evaporates; so i would guess than any car on any island would benefit from a "rust proofing" coating.

Sounds like a perfect use for an EV such as you found. How far is your daily commute?

 

[John Trindle]

i've never heard of brake fluid leakage being a thing for laefs--where did you guys dream that up? There has been some reports of the electric-driven brake actuator acting up, but that is not a common issue and mostly due to old, weak or worn out 12V battery.

Warm moist salty air will condense on any colder surface or metal panels, and leave a salty corrosive residue when the water evaporates; so i would guess than any car on any island would benefit from a "rust proofing" coating.

Sounds like a perfect use for an EV such as you found. How far is your daily commute?

There was a specific recall last year, on 2023 models, totalling about 700 cars It might be that some of the oldest ones had cylinder leakage just from age or old fluid not being changed.

 

[belbel]

The generic ways to check for brake master cylinder leaks include looking below the master cylinder reservoir for accumulated grime (vs. the surrounding "engine compartment") and checking the feel of the brake pedal for softness or extra travel, and for smoothness (doesn't "hang up"). You do want to check the car's behavior under hard braking (i.e. not just "B" mode regeneration, but a panic stop). This test will help reveal other problems including rusty/worn disks and ABS problems if they exist.

.If it's the wheel cylinders leaking there will be excess grime there, near the pads. Those leaks are a little easier to find. It's less likely the seller will clean off either area than to just refill the reservoir. I'm guessing a 2016 isn't quite old enough to leak internally without leaking OUT, and it's not in the recall year.

Just my opinion/experience from working on OTHER cars, without ABS by the way, so I could well be missing something.

Thanks so much, this is incredibly helpful. We're planning to test drive the car tomorrow and make the call. Will be referencing this post for vetting the car condition!

 

[belbel]

There was a specific recall last year, on 2023 models, totalling about 700 cars It might be that some of the oldest ones had cylinder leakage just from age or old fluid not being changed.

We saw this issue being discussed on the official Nissan forum for leaf owners. It seemed like some owners who bought older models also had problems, although it could've been a few random incidents.

 

[belbel]

i've never heard of brake fluid leakage being a thing for laefs--where did you guys dream that up? There has been some reports of the electric-driven brake actuator acting up, but that is not a common issue and mostly due to old, weak or worn out 12V battery.

Warm moist salty air will condense on any colder surface or metal panels, and leave a salty corrosive residue when the water evaporates; so i would guess than any car on any island would benefit from a "rust proofing" coating.

Sounds like a perfect use for an EV such as you found. How far is your daily commute?

Thanks, the islands here are notorious for salty air that damage cars in general so at least some coating should help, although it won't do anything for the rest of the vehicle, which will be susceptible to acid rain (from the volcano).

We don't commute, but the Big Island is basically a huge mountain and the mileage can add up quite quickly going uphill.

 

[belbel]

Any hydraulic leaks will eat paint and attract dirt. Any leaks that has been leaking for a while will be visible.

Thank you, hoping to do a visual check tomorrow!

 

[DaveE128]

Sounds pretty good option to me, but as others have said, invest in an OBD dongle and LeafSpy to check battery. I wouldn't obsess over it once you've bought the car, but worth a check before.

To calculate your likely range, use https://abetterrouteplanner.com/ and select the right car, and enter the battery degradation using the SOH from Leafspy (e.g. my 137k miles 2015 has 70% SOH, so enter 30% degradation). In my experience it's very accurate, just a tiny bit pessimistic (the right kind of error!) and I'd use it to try out other vehicles types prior to purchase to see what journeys are possible.

 

[nlspace]

To calculate your likely range, use

Haha, not many routes on Hawaii except the interstate highway system...

 

[eded]

Buy a used model 3 if you can sacrifice on truck space that comes in leaf.

A mid range model 3 is less than 20k at 100k miles

 

[belbel]

Sounds pretty good option to me, but as others have said, invest in an OBD dongle and LeafSpy to check battery. I wouldn't obsess over it once you've bought the car, but worth a check before.

To calculate your likely range, use https://abetterrouteplanner.com/ and select the right car, and enter the battery degradation using the SOH from Leafspy (e.g. my 137k miles 2015 has 70% SOH, so enter 30% degradation). In my experience it's very accurate, just a tiny bit pessimistic (the right kind of error!) and I'd use it to try out other vehicles types prior to purchase to see what journeys are possible.

Good tip on the range calculation. We've invested in the OBD dongle and will do so once it gets here. Thanks for your input!

 

[belbel]

Buy a used model 3 if you can sacrifice on truck space that comes in leaf.

A mid range model 3 is less than 20k at 100k miles

Huh. Didn't even realize that was an option. Not sure if it's even on the market in the islands here but definitely worth a search. Thanks!

 

[lawrencerhodes]

Hello, we're considering a 2016 used Nissan Leaf with 65K mileage and a recently replaced 40 kWh battery. The owner is asking $10,000 in cash and claims everything works; single owner and dealership servicing at regular intervals. Comes with a home charging unit and has rust proofing underneath the car by the dealership. The battery seems to be at 12 bars 208 miles in the photo. We live on the Big Island of Hawaii where inventory is low and the roads are quite hilly; on the other hand, we never have to worry about cold weather.

We've never owned an EV before and need a car mostly for local/town use, but it would be great to be able to drive 75+ miles uphill one-way drive once in a while (to destinations with public charging stations).

What are your thoughts on the price? What should we check for when vetting the vehicle (read about leaking brake cylinders being an issue), and any special things to look for when test driving? Trying to make a decision ASAP. Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you in advance for your opinion and advice!

A 40 kw Leaf has 140 miles according to the EPA. 208 means they were hypermiling. Look at usage. If it is getting 5 miles per kwh, the vehicle was being driven very lightly. I was able to get 5.3 miles per kwh driving at 50mph. No faster. 12health is good. It is reasonable but not a deal. I sold my 30 kwh Leaf for $6k with 98k on the clock and nine bàrs of health on the original battery. No rust whatsoever. Clean car. I sold for a reasonable price for me. I consider the Leaf battery a throw away. It will degrade depending on how you use it. I used the 2 ball method, showing 6-8 miles per kwh on the instant. If you want a good battery or need more range or power get a Tesla with an LFP battery. The Leaf with an aftermarket LFP would be a winner due to Leaf dependability. Best car I ever owned until my Model 3. The Y is more comfortable. More practical. Beware 2011-2012 Leafs. Rinsing your car with water daily is the only protection from salt air.