You are hilarious!LeftieBiker said:Tesla has made, and currently makes, superior electric cars compared to Nissan. Anyone who cannot acknowledge that is either uninformed or stubbornly stuck to the Nissan Brand
Tesla makes cars that have superior performance to the Leaf. That is unquestioned. Tesla does not, however, make a car that is in the same price range as the Leaf and is also as comfortable. They do not make a car in the same price range (and possibly not at all) that is as disability-friendly and older-driver-friendly as the Leaf, either. Maybe in the future Tesla will make a car that is affordable, has easy entry and exit, and a heated steering wheel. (Windows that don't seal the doors closed in frigid weather would also be helpful.) Until then, the Model 3 and the Leaf are apples and oranges, and some people just prefer apples, while others prefer oranges. Until Tesla fa, er, aficionados stop trying to force-feed orange lovers applesauce, we will continue to regard you with some skepticism and wariness.
You can now buy 6-7 year old Model S in the high $20,000 to low $30,000 range. For sure you cannot buy a $3,500 Tesla and there are good reasons for that.Oilpan4 said:If money is no object or a life time of debt sounds cool then tesla for sure.
Even after its paid off and out of warranty same applies.
Evoforce said:Tesla has made, and currently makes, superior electric cars compared to Nissan. Anyone who cannot acknowledge that is either uninformed or stubbornly stuck to the Nissan Brand. Tesla is not going out of business and to say it is, is grasping at straws. One could also say that Nissan will stop producing electric cars as well... Might as well just say you are a Nissan fanatic or fan boy. Nothing wrong with that really. Just admit that, no matter what, you will choose Nissan. No need to rationalize then.![]()
LeftieBiker said:Tesla has made, and currently makes, superior electric cars compared to Nissan. Anyone who cannot acknowledge that is either uninformed or stubbornly stuck to the Nissan Brand
Tesla makes cars that have superior performance to the Leaf. That is unquestioned. Tesla does not, however, make a car that is in the same price range as the Leaf and is also as comfortable. They do not make a car in the same price range (and possibly not at all) that is as disability-friendly and older-driver-friendly as the Leaf, either. Maybe in the future Tesla will make a car that is affordable, has easy entry and exit, and a heated steering wheel. (Windows that don't seal the doors closed in frigid weather would also be helpful.) Until then, the Model 3 and the Leaf are apples and oranges, and some people just prefer apples, while others prefer oranges. Until Tesla fa, er, aficionados stop trying to force-feed orange lovers applesauce, we will continue to regard you with some skepticism and wariness.
LeftieBiker said:Tesla has made, and currently makes, superior electric cars compared to Nissan. Anyone who cannot acknowledge that is either uninformed or stubbornly stuck to the Nissan Brand
Tesla makes cars that have superior performance to the Leaf. That is unquestioned. Tesla does not, however, make a car that is in the same price range as the Leaf and is also as comfortable. They do not make a car in the same price range (and possibly not at all) that is as disability-friendly and older-driver-friendly as the Leaf, either. Maybe in the future Tesla will make a car that is affordable, has easy entry and exit, and a heated steering wheel. (Windows that don't seal the doors closed in frigid weather would also be helpful.) Until then, the Model 3 and the Leaf are apples and oranges, and some people just prefer apples, while others prefer oranges. Until Tesla fa, er, aficionados stop trying to force-feed orange lovers applesauce, we will continue to regard you with some skepticism and wariness.
Large amounts of data isn't needed. You answered the main question... The car is native to hot & sunny central Florida. It's no secret that heat destroys a LEAF battery, and it doesn't make much difference if driving vs. parked in the heat. Last time I was through the area, traffic was running at least 75 mph, and at times was getting passed by everything when running 80. That heat and workload was fine for my Ridgeline, but would never want to subject a LEAF battery to those conditions. Would expect consistently hot battery temps without much opportunity to cool off and not the slightest bit surprised your battery is loosing capacity quickly. Remember once having an air-cooled VW Bug, those machines also didn't do so well in the heat especially when run hard. Suggest paying a little more for an EV with liquid cooling.valem said:I've been driving in Central FL, as was the previous owner that got the battery replaced.
I will post every single charge and discharge cycle; yes, I am noting down all Leafspy data and dash data every time I charge...
Oilpan4 said:I definitely don't want a used $20,000 car with limited range that requires hours of dwell time between long drives.
I'm good with my leaf that was $7,200 at 7 years old
And it won't burn my house down.
I won't go as far as what Oilpan4 is saying but perhaps you've missed some of the incidents of various Tesla fires and the assertion that Tesla uses an unstable chemistry: https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=336543#p336543. The below isn't a complete list. Most of these I knew of off the top of my head because I'd read of them or seen the videos before.Evoforce said:Oilpan4 said:I definitely don't want a used $20,000 car with limited range that requires hours of dwell time between long drives.
I'm good with my leaf that was $7,200 at 7 years old
And it won't burn my house down.
I'm not sure what you are referring to but I just got a recall on both of my Leafs that are battery related to possible corrosion/poor grounding and maybe fire or shock? Did you get your notice to repair yet? I suppose a Leaf with an uncooled battery might be more susceptible to catching on fire but I haven't seen where this is a problem with any of the electric cars currently on the market. I would worry more about burning your house down by possibly incorrectly hooking up your car to power your (water well) or home appliances. Not that it can't be done, but not efficiently with the Leaf.
valem said:I haven't found a newer post with a similar title so I am resurrecting this one...
This question (which is beyond me) has been bugging my mind, and I have to ask ...
Why oh why on this flat ass Earth, would anyone (in their right ass mind) buy a (top of the line) Leaf SL rather than a baseline T Model 3.
Really... why? I must now.
Sad to hear your bad experience with Tesla.gbrance said:Tesla has a lot of chaos going on. I got two Tesla PW2's installed over a year ago. One of the batteries went bad less than a week after the install. Trying to get the battery replaced under warranty took over 3-months and basically Tesla's customer service sucked. At the time I told myself why would I buy a $50k car from a company that cannot even handle the support on a $15k battery installation?
gbrance said:When the Tesla Model Y comes out we will be looking at it. It looks have a higher seating position and hopefully more comfortable seats.
rogersleaf said:Large amounts of data isn't needed. You answered the main question... The car is native to hot & sunny central Florida. It's no secret that heat destroys a LEAF battery, and it doesn't make much difference if driving vs. parked in the heat. Last time I was through the area, traffic was running at least 75 mph, and at times was getting passed by everything when running 80. That heat and workload was fine for my Ridgeline, but would never want to subject a LEAF battery to those conditions. Would expect consistently hot battery temps without much opportunity to cool off and not the slightest bit surprised your battery is loosing capacity quickly. Remember once having an air-cooled VW Bug, those machines also didn't do so well in the heat especially when run hard. Suggest paying a little more for an EV with liquid cooling.
valem said:rogersleaf said:Large amounts of data isn't needed. You answered the main question... The car is native to hot & sunny central Florida. It's no secret that heat destroys a LEAF battery, and it doesn't make much difference if driving vs. parked in the heat. Last time I was through the area, traffic was running at least 75 mph, and at times was getting passed by everything when running 80. That heat and workload was fine for my Ridgeline, but would never want to subject a LEAF battery to those conditions. Would expect consistently hot battery temps without much opportunity to cool off and not the slightest bit surprised your battery is loosing capacity quickly. Remember once having an air-cooled VW Bug, those machines also didn't do so well in the heat especially when run hard. Suggest paying a little more for an EV with liquid cooling.
In my data I also keep track of highest cell temp. and even when really warm out it's in the mid 80s. Battery has been on average in the mid 70s betwen November and April, and in mid 80s betwen may and October. Few sporadic peaks in the high 90s due to DC charging.
I avoid highways, avoid driving in the hot times of day and will go out of my way to park in the shade.
Because I rarely drive during the hot times, I also rarely use the A/C. That is correct, in central FL, in the summer, I very rarely use the AC... I suffer to maximize range. Also I avoid highways to maximize range, and when I go on the highways I set cruise to speed limit up to 65. Everyone passes me, but besides working the battery hard, if I go above 65, the Leaf won't go very far.
So I mostly do city driving when it's not hot out, without AC.
I drive very little 5 to 6k mi /year.
I can count on my fingers the charges to 100%, I usually charge with home L2 from 30% to 60% at most.
Extremely shallow charge cycles, and even with temps in the 60s of the FL winter I was experiencing an SOH drop of about 1%/1000.
Hot or cold weather, this car is losing 1% SOH per 1000 miles.
Which is consistent with the first battery... the original battery was replaced at 29k miles (previous owner)
I don't know what the SOH was, but it has to drop at least 4 bars to be replaced, which is about a 34% loss correct? 15% first bar and 6.25% the other 3?
I bought it with 35800mi, 6k miles later and SOH when I bought it was 94%. Dead spot on with 1% per 1000mi!
I now have 41616, about 12k miles after replacement, lo and behold SOH is 88.74, down 11.26% ... incredibly accurate!
So I drove 5800mi and SOH dropped from 94.08 to 88.74 or 1% every 1089mi to be exact.
Just like clockwork