non hardwired L2 EVSE availablitiy

Hey all,

Quick question. Do all L2 EVSEs have to be hardwired? I'd like to know because a non hardwired EVSE would be easier to move if changing residency.

I have tried to search around for this answer, but so far I've only seen the Leviton EVSE which isn't available yet and the modded L1 charger.

No. Phil's EVSE upgrade just needs a wall plug similar to a dryer plug.

Hey Downeyhp, thanks for the quick reply,

I wanted to get the home set up like a typical L2 or AV installation, but I just don't want the EVSE to be hardwired in, so in case of a move I can take my L2 with me and still advertise the home as "EVSE ready" for the next person who may want to come along and plug in their own L2.

Does anyone provide a product like that?

My Blink was installed using a NEMA 6-50 to plug in. Most of the indoor installs of various EVSEs I've seen posted seem to use an outlet, except for the AV installs. The outdoor ones are hard-wired.

EV-ChargeAmerica has a 40 amp plug in evse that works well for me. I also have the nissan upgrade as a backup.

davewill said:

My Blink was installed using a NEMA 6-50 to plug in. Most of the indoor installs of various EVSEs I've seen posted seem to use an outlet, except for the AV installs. The outdoor ones are hard-wired.

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Thanks, I haven't looked to far into Blink, the Leaf hasn't been released in my area yet, (no harm in planning ahead). But do you know of any other companies that do so? I'd like to price and compare whats out there.

It is not a big deal to remove a hardwired evse, cap a few wire nuts on the wires, and put a coverplate on the box opening.
Then it is an easy self install for the next owner.

The EVSE needs to be hardwired if 1) your local code requires it; 2) any program you are in (EV project or local utility) requires it. The units are probably available both ways.

EVSE info:
http://www.pluginamerica.org/accessories

house i just moved into had an L5-20 plug which i swapped out for a L6-20 plug to match the EVSE upgrade from Phil...but i will soon be tearing that out to install a meter to monitor the power. pics to follow.

will be a while ordered a meter and this is what USPS has to say

Scheduled Delivery: Jul 06, 2011
Shipped to: LACEY, WA, US
Service Type: GROUND
Signed by:
Delivered to: REDMOND, WA, US
Date Delivered: Jun 28, 2011

ok, like Redmond is 55 miles from Olympia. i could WALK there and back a half dozen times in the time it will take USPS to deliver the thing.

hopefully their estimate is way off

Why hasn't anyone mentioned the Leviton Evr-Green line? They have a NEMA 6-20 (not locking) plug. Are you getting as tired of hearing the "should be out next month" line as I am?

Our Blink was installed here yesterday... with a good ol' NEMA 6-50R receptacle, and the supplied cord.

Stanton said:

Why hasn't anyone mentioned the Leviton Evr-Green line? They have a NEMA 6-20 (not locking) plug. Are you getting as tired of hearing the "should be out next month" line as I am?

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Mostly it was because the OP already mentioned it as the only one he knew about.

mikekim said:

I wanted to get the home set up like a typical L2 or AV installation, but I just don't want the EVSE to be hardwired in, so in case of a move I can take my L2 with me and still advertise the home as "EVSE ready" for the next person who may want to come along and plug in their own L2.

Click to expand...

"EVSE ready" in that context would only mean that you have a 240v outlet installed that the new EVSE could be plugged into. There is the minor issue of which kind of outlet, but each EVSE seems to be designed for a different one, and they are easy and inexpensive to exchange. The bigger issue is the amperage required by the EVSE and the amperage provided by the circuit. The most general solution to that would be to wire for 80A but put in circuit breakers for whatever amps the EVSE requires. But that would mean 4 gauge wire, which is expensive and hard to work with, and a 40A circuit with 8 gauge wire will handle most if not all current EVSEs.

Note that the above applies to any EVSE including Phil's EVSEupgrade. Wiring for it and then taking it with you when you move is no different, in terms of what you leave behind, than wiring for a Leviton or Blink and taking it with you. The difference is, of course, that the EVSEupgrade costs far less.

Ray

Yes, "un-hardwiring" a hardwired EVSE usually takes only a few minutes, and leaves the house "ev-ready", even for another hardwired unit.

Get the hardwires run through a junction/receptacle box in the wall behind the hardwired unit. Then, the wires (ends covered with "wire-nuts") could be either couled and stuffed back in the box, or a socket could be installed. Best to run 4 wires (including both neutral and ground), not just 3.

Stanton said:

Why hasn't anyone mentioned the Leviton Evr-Green line? They have a NEMA 6-20 (not locking) plug. Are you getting as tired of hearing the "should be out next month" line as I am?

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I'll tell you how I feel next month.

Phil's upgrade is the winner.

Thanks for all the responses. I wasn't sure on the difficulty of uninstalling a hardwired unit. But it seems it's not a difficult thing to do.

Guess all that's left to do is wait till leafs make it into the southeast, (besides Tenn. of course)

The National Electric Code requires that Level 2 charge stations be hard wired. Having said that, the first thing the NEC says is that it doesn't apply to cord and plug connected equipment. Therefore, it can be argued either way. Local ordinances may require them to be hardwired, but most just adopt the NEC, so they can be argued with if desired.

Having said that, I had an RV port installed at my driveway several years ago, which includes a NEMA 14-50 receptacle. Then I bought a used AV unit, went to Lowes and bought an electric range cord, and installed it in the EVSE. Opening it up would void the warranty, but since I bought it used, it had no warranty anyway. I keep the EVSE in the car so I can plug into any RV receptacle. With adapters, I could plug into an electric dryer outlet or even a window air conditioner outlet, since the Leaf only draws 16 amps.

I have to admit it's a PITA taking the EVSE out of the car every evening to plug it in, so will probably buy a second one that I can leave there. I may hardwire it, but will probably plug it in as well.

Dave

planet4ever said:

mikekim said:

I wanted to get the home set up like a typical L2 or AV installation, but I just don't want the EVSE to be hardwired in, so in case of a move I can take my L2 with me and still advertise the home as "EVSE ready" for the next person who may want to come along and plug in their own L2.

Click to expand...

"EVSE ready" in that context would only mean that you have a 240v outlet installed that the new EVSE could be plugged into. There is the minor issue of which kind of outlet, but each EVSE seems to be designed for a different one, and they are easy and inexpensive to exchange. The bigger issue is the amperage required by the EVSE and the amperage provided by the circuit. The most general solution to that would be to wire for 80A but put in circuit breakers for whatever amps the EVSE requires. But that would mean 4 gauge wire, which is expensive and hard to work with, and a 40A circuit with 8 gauge wire will handle most if not all current EVSEs.

Note that the above applies to any EVSE including Phil's EVSEupgrade. Wiring for it and then taking it with you when you move is no different, in terms of what you leave behind, than wiring for a Leviton or Blink and taking it with you. The difference is, of course, that the EVSEupgrade costs far less.

Ray

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Except that if you use the modified Nissan EVSE you only need a 20A circuit, in fact if you have a dedicated 120V circuit in many cases it can be changed to run on 240V without running new wires.

garygid said:

...Then, the wires (ends covered with "wire-nuts") could be either couled and stuffed back in the box, or a socket could be installed. Best to run 4 wires (including both neutral and ground), not just 3.

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Actually, better to tie all the wires together if you're not going to install a receptacle. That way the circuit can't be energized...the breaker will simply trip if someone tries.

Edit: Sorry. I listened to bad advice on TV. Don't do this.

davewill said:

Actually, better to tie all the wires together if you're not going to install a receptacle. That way the circuit can't be energized...the breaker will simply trip if someone tries.

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This sounds like a bad idea. Old house with possibly marginal (fused) breakers, and you could melt your lines or start a fire :?