New low price EVSE

[Volusiano]

And to add to the other shortcomings, since the LEAF charge timer is in-op, it would appear that you can not get automatic charge termination at 80%.
Bill

Can you elaborate on this part for us, Bill? I wonder why any kind of mod to an EVSE would render the LEAF charge timer in-operable?

 

[davewill]

And to add to the other shortcomings, since the LEAF charge timer is in-op, it would appear that you can not get automatic charge termination at 80%.
Bill

Can you elaborate on this part for us, Bill? I wonder why any kind of mod to an EVSE would render the LEAF charge timer in-operable?

If the mod works as we think (fear), the J1772 AC contacts would be live at all times with 240v. When the LEAF goes into timer mode, it has the EVSE energize the contacts, samples the voltage so it can accurately gauge the time needed to charge, then has the EVSE deenergize the contacts and waits until time to start charging. Since the 240v doesn't go away, I'm guessing the LEAF timer faults at that point.

 

[ebill3]

And to add to the other shortcomings, since the LEAF charge timer is in-op, it would appear that you can not get automatic charge termination at 80%.
Bill

Can you elaborate on this part for us, Bill? I wonder why any kind of mod to an EVSE would render the LEAF charge timer in-operable?

He states that in his FAQ as follows:

The on-board charger timer will not function with the FCL adapter in Level 2 mode (240V). It will work in the Level 1 mode. (120V). If you wish to use a timer for night charging and use the Level 2 mode , 240V fast charge, (off-peak), then an inexpensive 120V outlet timer would be used. Full instructions on how to do this very easy step will be supplied with your FCL adapter.

Bill

 

[pii100]

This appears to be an attempt to get 240Vac charging working at the lowest cost with no regard to safety or maintaining compliance with the J1772 spec. In the words of Samir from Office Space "Yes, this is horrible, this idea."

 

[Volusiano]

Interesting how OP is all quiet after 5 pages worth of posting.

 

[themotorman]

And to add to the other shortcomings, since the LEAF charge timer is in-op, it would appear that you can not get automatic charge termination at 80%.
Bill

Can you elaborate on this part for us, Bill? I wonder why any kind of mod to an EVSE would render the LEAF charge timer in-operable?

Hi Guys,
Thanks for all your comments, most are correct. It does use both 120 and 240 connections. The system is simple and yes it does splice into the J cord. It is as safe as when you run a welder, saw bench or other 240 volt system on an extension cord, as commonly done at construction sites. How many problems are reported from doing this? Let me know if you can find one from properly used extensions. It is so easy to be very, very safe...simply plug the J connector in first then the 240 then the 120. and repeat this in reverse when charging is over as shown by the blue status lights. I hope you have GFCI on the 240 volt circuit if it bothers you. I don't but that is my choice and as a citizen of the USA I feel I can make most choices without government intervention. Even well known companies like Leviton make an extension box that bypasses the unnecessary Fed. Code rejecting making an extension cable connection to the car charger. To make and sell a fully modified system that doesn't meet the UL or Fed Codes like the EVSEadapter does cost more as the electronics have to be modified, but it doesn't do any more than charge your car at twice the 120 rate, unless you pay even more for their grade 2 upgrade and the "cheater" adapters so you can plug into a dryer outlet.
Bottom line.. if you want to charge at 240 volts you have choices and the FCL is the least expensive.

 

[tps]

It is so easy to be very, very safe...simply plug the J connector in first then the 240 then the 120. and repeat this in reverse when charging is over as shown by the blue status lights.

But the point of J1772 connector is that it is designed for the high mate/demate cycling of EV charging, standard 240V and 120V connectors aren't. So by being "safe", one is potentially causing undue wear which could lead to a potential fire hazzard. It is probably wise to leave a plug-connected EVSE which is used on a daily basis over a long period of time plugged in, much like a clothes dryer or an electric range; this is likely why the NEC is written in such a way as to encourage hard-wiring the EVSE. (I don't think Blink intends on users to unplug the 6-50 plug often; I certainly don't intend to unplug the L6-20 on my Ingineer-modified EVSE often.)

At this point, each garage fire where an EV was present is drawing a lot of attention, and even "safe", UL listed EVSEs are not immune to investigation. Your freedom to move your fist stops where your neighbor's nose begins. Hopefully all those you sell to will be knowledgeable enough not to use your EVSE in a way that creates a fire hazzard that puts not only them, but their neighbors, at risk.

 

[Volusiano]

It is so easy to be very, very safe...simply plug the J connector in first then the 240 then the 120. and repeat this in reverse when charging is over as shown by the blue status light.

How can you say it's safe if a human has to remember to connect and disconnect it in a certain order in order to be safe? Even if you can remember both sequences, you can't expect others in your family like your wife and kids to remember them like you do. This is not to say plugging and unplugging the 120V and 240V outlets in and out all the times is not ideal, either.

 

[ebill3]

It is so easy to be very, very safe...simply plug the J connector in first then the 240 then the 120. and repeat this in reverse when charging is over as shown by the blue status lights.

I do not know the inner workings of an EVSE, nor do I know how the mod is connected, hence my questions.

If the 120 plug is plugged in and the 240 plug is not, is one prong of the 240 volt plug "hot"?
If the 240 plug is plugged in and the 120 plug is not, is one prong of the 120 volt plug "hot"?

Bill

 

[themotorman]

And to add to the other shortcomings, since the LEAF charge timer is in-op, it would appear that you can not get automatic charge termination at 80%.
Bill

Can you elaborate on this part for us, Bill? I wonder why any kind of mod to an EVSE would render the LEAF charge timer in-operable?

He states that in his FAQ as follows:

The on-board charger timer will not function with the FCL adapter in Level 2 mode (240V). It will work in the Level 1 mode. (120V). If you wish to use a timer for night charging and use the Level 2 mode , 240V fast charge, (off-peak), then an inexpensive 120V outlet timer would be used. Full instructions on how to do this very easy step will be supplied with your FCL adapter.

Bill

My idea is not to make any money from this. The cost of $149 that my son is charging is just to make a very professional job of a simple splicing and to attach high quality UL approved L6-30 connectors. This is not a dangerous idea. Ignorance is more dangerous and BTW I am a professional engineer having worked at NASA in space program and also in the medical electronics field for many years, where safety is a major issue. If you want to be safe with the FCL adapter, even the original LEAF EVSE cable or the EVSEadapter or any other 120 OR 240 volt system my advice is power up and down by connecting and disconnecting at the power entry point. This is for the least risk. If you are a hacker and also a reasonably competent technician you can do this yourself. However for those who want to charge at 240 volts then the FCL is still a simple low cost way to go. Discussion is good .. raising firestorms and personal attacks is not.
Peace.

 

[pii100]

Is the l6-30 isolated so as to not become hot when not connected? Also is there any protection from shorting l1 to l2 if the 120 and 240 outlets are miswired?

 

[davewill]

... If you want to be safe with the FCL adapter, even the original LEAF EVSE cable or the EVSEadapter or any other 120 OR 240 volt system my advice is power up and down by connecting and disconnecting at the power entry point. This is for the least risk. ...

That would be entirely incorrect. The J1772 connection was designed to be the connect and disconnect point of the system. Unplugging a properly functioning EVSE at the wall during charging is likely to cause arcing. The J1772 connector has an interlock circuit to prevent this. If you don't know that, you have no business in this business.

Selling this mod to the general public is reckless, and I certainly won't recommend anyone do business with you. You're going to give the all LEAF DIY efforts a black eye.

 

[LakeLeaf]

The proprietors appear to be Ron and Peter Doctors - [email protected] and [email protected]. Ron seems to be the scientist.

 

[ebill3]

If the 120 plug is plugged in and the 240 plug is not, is one prong of the 240 volt plug "hot"?
If the 240 plug is plugged in and the 120 plug is not, is one prong of the 120 volt plug "hot"?

Please, my questions are rather easily answered with a yes or no. As a professional engineer, you ought to be able to do that.

Thank you.

Bill

 

[tech01]

We're a pretty jaundiced crowd. Saving money is good as is a new business. however; Things like shipping&handling, warranty, service, turn around time, what does it look like, specifications, star rating (1-5), testimonials from cutomers would be of some interest to some of us. :?:

 

[EVDRIVER]

And to add to the other shortcomings, since the LEAF charge timer is in-op, it would appear that you can not get automatic charge termination at 80%.
Bill

Can you elaborate on this part for us, Bill? I wonder why any kind of mod to an EVSE would render the LEAF charge timer in-operable?

Hi Guys,
Thanks for all your comments, most are correct. It does use both 120 and 240 connections. The system is simple and yes it does splice into the J cord. It is as safe as when you run a welder, saw bench or other 240 volt system on an extension cord, as commonly done at construction sites. How many problems are reported from doing this? Let me know if you can find one from properly used extensions. It is so easy to be very, very safe...simply plug the J connector in first then the 240 then the 120. and repeat this in reverse when charging is over as shown by the blue status lights. I hope you have GFCI on the 240 volt circuit if it bothers you. I don't but that is my choice and as a citizen of the USA I feel I can make most choices without government intervention. Even well known companies like Leviton make an extension box that bypasses the unnecessary Fed. Code rejecting making an extension cable connection to the car charger. To make and sell a fully modified system that doesn't meet the UL or Fed Codes like the EVSEadapter does cost more as the electronics have to be modified, but it doesn't do any more than charge your car at twice the 120 rate, unless you pay even more for their grade 2 upgrade and the "cheater" adapters so you can plug into a dryer outlet.
Bottom line.. if you want to charge at 240 volts you have choices and the FCL is the least expensive.

What you are doing is not safe because you leave the J1772 cord live when it is unplugged, this is extremely dangerous and changes the very premise of the EVSE safety features. In addition you connect a 240V 30A cord without GFCI protection and no fusing. This defeats yet another key safety feature the EVSE was specifically designed to address. You have essentially turned a safe "intelligent" device into a "stupid" extension cord on a cable that is not even rated to handle 30A! I could continue to illustrate in detail how this is unsafe in many ways but any professional engineer would understand this. I could make this inherently unsafe modification as well by attaching a J1772 directly to a 30A plug with a pilot signal in the wall plug but that defeats the point of an EVSE all together. At this point you are condoning exactly what the auto makers, EV proponents and others fear, an unsafe hack that misrepresents safe operation and seriously endangers the safety of people foolish enough to use this. No true professional EE would ever make, recommend or endorse this method or such a device.

 

[Deleted member 3147]

If the 120 plug is plugged in and the 240 plug is not, is one prong of the 240 volt plug "hot"?
If the 240 plug is plugged in and the 120 plug is not, is one prong of the 120 volt plug "hot"?

Please, my questions are rather easily answered with a yes or no. As a professional engineer, you ought to be able to do that.

Thank you.

Bill

I'm not the OP but, as I understand what he's doing. The 120v and 240v plugs are isolated from each other. However, the 240V plug is directly connected to the J1772 plug. There is no GFCI protection for the 240v circuit and the J1772 plug always has 240 volts present. This is what everyone is so upset about.

My personal opinion: the OP is free to make this modification for himself. Maybe OK for him to make these for friends we he trusts to take the necessary caution. However, selling this to the general public is asking for someone to damage his car (from connector arcing) or electrocute themselves.

Frankly, I hope the OP has a good lawyer on retainer.

 

[z0ner]

My idea is not to make any money from this...Discussion is good .. raising firestorms and personal attacks is not.
Peace.

Peace would be wonderful, but when you (or your son) blatently plagiarize another's work and steal content off a competitor's website, what does that say about your business ethics? If you can't even use your own verbiage on your website how can I trust you with my $34K car? Not gonna happen. It's my hope that there isn't a single member here stupid enough to entrust their EVSE to you, and that they get it done properly @ EVSEUpgrade.com.

 

[pii100]

I don't think he ever claimed to be an EE. He did get very defensive at the slightest questioning of the safety of his modification all while ignoring requests for a detailed description of the modification and stated that he was some sort of engineer with experience in the medical field and at one point worked for NASA. I don't think I've seen any "Personal attacks" yet for all we know he is a transportation engineer and designed the parking lot at the aforementioned medical facilities and NASA. Based on the evidence so far I think this is a strictly profit motivated endeavor for him again with no regard to safety or the legal ramifications of his actions. I think the lawyer on retainer suggestion is a good idea for him if he plans to move forward with this.

 

[EVDRIVER]

My idea is not to make any money from this...Discussion is good .. raising firestorms and personal attacks is not.
Peace.

Peace would be wonderful, but when you (or your son) blatently plagiarize another's work and steal content off a competitor's website, what does that say about your business ethics? If you can't even use your own verbiage on your website how can I trust you with my $34K car? Not gonna happen. It's my hope that there isn't a single member here stupid enough to entrust their EVSE to you, and that they get it done properly @ EVSEUpgrade.com.

First he steals someone else's work and then does not even bother to remove the link to the order page to the original site. I suppose that is a good indication of competence level and I find that part almost unbelievable. This makes EV Charge America look really good! :lol: