36,000 mile question

[abasile]

Our LEAF is about to hit 36,000 miles on the odometer, bringing an end to our non-battery warranty coverage.

Does anyone have suggestions as to items on the car that I might want to inspect for issues?

Thus far, the only warranty work we've had done was the replacement of a cracked/broken charge port release lever. (The lever developed a crack and eventually broke.)

I'm thinking I should take the car in for any/all software updates, as I seem to recall that there's an update to address incompatibilities with some charging docks such as the GE WattStation. The last thing we'll want to do is replace the vehicle's charger on our own nickel.

 

[TomT]

Since the update in question is a Program item, they will do it for free even outside of warranty. It is kind of like a recall in that sense... However, I would have the TSB for the wheel bearing click/whir done before 36,000... It took two attempts on my car for them to get it right...

I'm thinking I should take the car in for any/all software updates, as I seem to recall that there's an update to address incompatibilities with some charging docks such as the GE WattStation.

 

[TickTock]

Check the CV joints. Mine have started making noise. They repacked the boots for me free of charge, which helped (although I still hear it). There is a TSB on this, I hear, but I don't know the number.

 

[MikeD]

Since this post prompted me to look at Leaf TSBs http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/TSB/...F (ZE0) 11-12&msection=EL+-+ELECTRICAL+SYSTEM I noticed this informative one:
TSB NTB11034:

SERVICE INFORMATION This bulletin contains product service information and special handling procedures for 2011 and 2012 LEAF vehicles. Background: If the 12 volt battery is disconnected from the vehicle within 5 minutes of turning off the vehicle’spower switch, the following codes could be stored in the following vehicle systems: - Electric Brake Actuator (e-ACT): C1A62 - Electric Power Steering (EPS): C1607 - Lithium Battery Controller (LBC): P3196, P3191, or P318E Actions: If the 12 volt battery is required to be disconnected from the vehicle, wait 5 minutes after turning off the vehicle’s power switch before disconnecting the 12 volt battery.

BTW, I don't see anything about CV joints...

 

[abasile]

I haven't noticed anything awry with the CV joints, but then again, I'm no expert on standard car parts. I can ask the dealer to see if they notice anything.

All in all, I've been very pleased with the reliability of the 2011 LEAF, aside of course from the heat concerns that are affecting most LEAF owners to a greater or lesser extent.

 

[cwerdna]

I don't know how long you plan to keep the Leaf, but if I were to want to keep it for awhile I'd be buying an extended warranty mainly due to worries about the on-board charger being blown.

 

[Stoaty]

Since the update in question is a Program item, they will do it for free even outside of warranty. It is kind of like a recall in that sense... However, I would have the TSB for the wheel bearing click/whir done before 36,000... It took two attempts on my car for them to get it right...

Can you elaborate on what the problem/solution is for this TSB? I don't recall hearing anything about this TSB. How do we know if we need it done?

 

[cwerdna]

Since the update in question is a Program item, they will do it for free even outside of warranty. It is kind of like a recall in that sense... However, I would have the TSB for the wheel bearing click/whir done before 36,000... It took two attempts on my car for them to get it right...

Can you elaborate on what the problem/solution is for this TSB? I don't recall hearing anything about this TSB. How do we know if we need it done?

As an FYI, one can download 2 TSBs a day from http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/Knowledgebase.html?catid=651#.UcEa1thu98E" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. You need a free account.

They may not have some of the newest TSBs up yet.

 

[TickTock]

Since this post prompted me to look at Leaf TSBs http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/TSB/...F (ZE0) 11-12&msection=EL+-+ELECTRICAL+SYSTEM I noticed this informative one:
TSB NTB11034:

SERVICE INFORMATION This bulletin contains product service information and special handling procedures for 2011 and 2012 LEAF vehicles. Background: If the 12 volt battery is disconnected from the vehicle within 5 minutes of turning off the vehicle’spower switch, the following codes could be stored in the following vehicle systems: - Electric Brake Actuator (e-ACT): C1A62 - Electric Power Steering (EPS): C1607 - Lithium Battery Controller (LBC): P3196, P3191, or P318E Actions: If the 12 volt battery is required to be disconnected from the vehicle, wait 5 minutes after turning off the vehicle’s power switch before disconnecting the 12 volt battery.

BTW, I don't see anything about CV joints...

I just reviewed the invoice and it says "applied PBC grease to axle contact points as per NTB12-155b." The attendant I spoke to when I picked it up said they repacked the boots so I assume this is what he was referring to.

 

[foobert]

How many chargers have we seen blown that were not related to lightening?

I don't know how long you plan to keep the Leaf, but if I were to want to keep it for awhile I'd be buying an extended warranty mainly due to worries about the on-board charger being blown.

 

[cwerdna]

How many chargers have we seen blown that were not related to lightening?

I don't know how long you plan to keep the Leaf, but if I were to want to keep it for awhile I'd be buying an extended warranty mainly due to worries about the on-board charger being blown.

I don't know but it's more than a handful. Maybe we should a collect a list in a thread or the wiki of people who needed OBC replacements on the '11 and '12s? Many (most?) of them had GE Wattstations but apparently doesn't seem limited to that EVSE. It just seems most common w/that one, I think.

And, there ought list to be another for PDM replacements needed on the '13.

I found 3 so far, just by quickly digging.
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=10773" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=293948#p293948" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=278929#p278929" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - 2 replacements already, might need another

 

[abasile]

I don't know how long you plan to keep the Leaf, but if I were to want to keep it for awhile I'd be buying an extended warranty mainly due to worries about the on-board charger being blown.

Does anyone have recommendations on purchasing an extended warranty? Normally, I always decline extended warranties, but this might be a worthy exception. I seem to recall some folks getting their extended warranties from third parties for less. But if the warranty is particularly difficult to use, then it's probably not worth the cost savings.

 

[derkraut]

Here's my opinion, after 50+ yrs as a mechanic/greasehead: Regarding the possible CV Joint issue, there's really no difference between the Leaf CV joints and a typical ICE car CV joint setup. I have never seen CV joints wear out unless/until the rubber boots split, which allowed the grease to leak out, and moisture to leak in. So, I would make sure that the boots are not split. I don't see how the dealer could apply additional grease to the CV joints without pulling the axle shafts and removing the boots. That is a much more labor intensive, and useless procedure if the boots are sealed.

 

[GerryAZ]

You may want to take another look at the Nissan warranty terms before you decide whether to buy an extended warranty (service contract). The 2011 Leaf has a 5-year, 60,000-mile warranty on the drivetrain (gear case, CV joints, etc.) and EV system (motor, inverter, charger, VCM, etc.) so the expensive items are already covered without the need for an extended warranty.

Gerry

 

[cwerdna]

^^^
Ahh, yes, you're right.

However, I'd look into when it's too late to get an extended warranty to cover those parts, if the OP intends to keep the car past 5 years/60K miles.

 

[GerryAZ]

^^^
Ahh, yes, you're right.

However, I'd look into when it's too late to get an extended warranty to cover those parts, if the OP intends to keep the car past 5 years/60K miles.

According to the warranty information booklet, Nissan's Security Plus protection plans (service contracts) can be purchased as long as the vehicle is still within the 3-year, 36,000-mile basic warranty period so everyone needs to keep that in mind.

Gerry

 

[abasile]

You may want to take another look at the Nissan warranty terms before you decide whether to buy an extended warranty (service contract). The 2011 Leaf has a 5-year, 60,000-mile warranty on the drivetrain (gear case, CV joints, etc.) and EV system (motor, inverter, charger, VCM, etc.) so the expensive items are already covered without the need for an extended warranty.

Thanks! I had totally forgotten about this aspect of the warranty, didn't think to check, and simply assumed I'd be on my own after 36K miles. It's great to be a part of this online community!

Although I intend to keep the car past 60K miles, I think I'll pass on the extended warranty. I'm not convinced that the risk of a breakdown is great enough to justify the cost of the warranty, especially since there's no absolute guarantee that we'll still have the car at 60K miles. (God forbid, it could be totaled, etc.) If a serious problem does arise out of warranty, I'll look for third-party options (Ingineer??) rather than paying full freight at a dealership.

In general, in forgoing extended warranties, one should always endeavor to keep ample cash on hand to cover any issues that could arise. In the long run, making a practice of self-insuring is almost always more economical and simpler. When purchasing my own health insurance, I went for "catastrophic" coverage only, for the same reason. (Plus I hate dealing with nickel and diming insurance companies for routine matters.)

 

[donald]

In the long run, making a practice of self-insuring is almost always more economical and simpler. .... (Plus I hate dealing with nickel and diming insurance companies for routine matters.)

In theory, it is always cheaper to 'self-insure' as it means you get to keep the profits that the insurance company would be making out of your business (to whom you would otherwise be contributing). However, that model of cost-risk analysis falls apart if a) the risk to be insured is something you'd not be otherwise able to pay out for from your own pocket, and/or b) if you judge the risk the insurance company to be taking a bigger risk than you think they are actually charging you for (i.e., if you think the insurance is cheap!).

In the case of extended warranties direct from the manufacturer, I think the insurance cover does tend to be 'cheap' compared with the risks [which is probably the case because they only have to look at 'cost' of parts and labour (or no labour cost at all, if it is a back-fill job in a quiet period), whereas you (or a 3rd party warranty company) would be looking at 'retail' prices as the insured risk], but that'd be your call.

 

[TomT]

Yep, that is it. They also check the flange bolt tightness as part of it.

I just reviewed the invoice and it says "applied PBC grease to axle contact points as per NTB12-155b." The attendant I spoke to when I picked it up said they repacked the boots so I assume this is what he was referring to.

 

[mwalsh]

You may want to take another look at the Nissan warranty terms before you decide whether to buy an extended warranty (service contract). The 2011 Leaf has a 5-year, 60,000-mile warranty on the drivetrain (gear case, CV joints, etc.) and EV system (motor, inverter, charger, VCM, etc.) so the expensive items are already covered without the need for an extended warranty.

Thanks! I had totally forgotten about this aspect of the warranty, didn't think to check, and simply assumed I'd be on my own after 36K miles. It's great to be a part of this online community!

Although I intend to keep the car past 60K miles, I think I'll pass on the extended warranty.

Don't forget some of the items that are NOT covered for 5 years but are a bit pricey - the head/nav unit, for example, which is getting up towards $2k if I remember correctly. I'll check the actual list price later. Of course you could always buy a salvage unit for half that. But that's still roughly equal to the cost of getting an extended warranty (from an online broker).