Newbie negotiating lease price with other questions

My Nissan Leaf Forum

Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

IraqiInvaderGnr

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2013
Messages
95
Location
Treynor, Iowa
How do I go about negotiating the lease price of the Leaf with dealers? There are 3 dealers near me and I've gone back and forth between 2 of them but have only gotten the month payment down to $290 a month (NO extra fees other than $2000 down payment).

Another question I have is that since trickle charging is as bad for the battery as Quick Charging which Level 2 charger should I get? AeroVironment or Blink or some other Level 2 charger. I've been trying to do research but I'm honestly confused as to the differences between them. Blink has wifi with it whereas AeroVironment has an option to have it added....But that leaves me wondering why does a charger need wifi for? Does it get additional power from the router somehow and if so why can't I just eliminate it and have the router charge the leaf? This research on EVSE has left me very confused to say the least. :?
 
IraqiInvaderGnr said:
How do I go about negotiating the lease price of the Leaf with dealers? There are 3 dealers near me and I've gone back and forth between 2 of them but have only gotten the month payment down to $290 a month (NO extra fees other than $2000 down payment).

You don't say where you are located, and different regions have different price competition. That may be the best you can do where you are, but if so you may have some options depending on where you are located.

However, if you are talking to the showroom sales folks then I suggest you try again with the Internet departments. Go onto the websites of all three and send an email with your exact parameters (trim level, options, colors, miles/year, lease length, down payment, etc), state you are ready to lease now and ask for their best price including taxes and all charges. I've found I always get the best bids this way. Expand your search to include a few dealers a bit farther away to see if there is significant discount available. When you have the right price have them email you a copy of the lease order so that you can confirm no extra charges.

IraqiInvaderGnr said:
Another question I have is that since trickle charging is as bad for the battery as Quick Charging which Level 2 charger should I get? AeroVironment or Blink or some other Level 2 charger. I've been trying to do research but I'm honestly confused as to the differences between them. Blink has wifi with it whereas AeroVironment has an option to have it added....But that leaves me wondering why does a charger need wifi for? Does it get additional power from the router somehow and if so why can't I just eliminate it and have the router charge the leaf? This research on EVSE has left me very confused to say the least. :?

I hadn't heard that ... I'd heard only that trickle charging uses slightly more electricity than level 2. By perhaps the battery experts can help here.

I personally don't see the need for those features .. I have a basic Schneider EVlink and it works great. Unfortunately they are out of stock everywhere on them right now. If I were buying now I'd look at the options online at Home Depot and get a basic one with 30 amp capability at has good reviews.
 
IraqiInvaderGnr said:
Another question I have is that since trickle charging is as bad for the battery as Quick Charging which Level 2 charger should I get?
False statement! Trickle charging is not bad for the battery. It is, as cgaydos said, less efficient. Roughly speaking, only 75% of the electricity you pay for makes it to the battery when charging at 120v. About 85% makes it there when you charge at 240v. Which one is right for you depends on how far you drive and how consistent your mileage is. If you drive 20 miles a day you should be able to charge in 5-7 hours at night using the 120v trickle charging EVSE. Assuming your power comes from OPPD, you have very good rates. Continuing with the 20 mile example, the extra 10% loss for using 120v charging will probably cost you less than a dime a day. At that rate it would take 30 years to pay for the electricity savings that a typical L2 EVSE would provide! And that's without including the installation costs, which can be high.

So get an L2 EVSE only if you need it due to the amount of driving you do.

IraqiInvaderGnr said:
But that leaves me wondering why does a charger need wifi for? Does it get additional power from the router somehow and if so why can't I just eliminate it and have the router charge the leaf?
First, it's not a charger. The charger is built into the car. Second, the EVSE gets no power from the router. The only reason for it to be internet connected is so someone - you or someone else - can monitor what it is doing remotely. In the past that was mostly so the company providing the EVSE could collect statistics. In other words, Big Brother type stuff. You don't say which model LEAF you are looking at, but if it is an SV or SL, you have Carwings to tell you what is going on with charging. If, on the other hand, you get the S model, you might be more interested in the logging the EVSE does, because that is the only data you will get from the car other than numbers on the dash that you might copy down manually every day.

Ray
 
WHen Leasing a car be sure to read the fine print! Leases tend to have many variables mainly credit worthyness, but getting as much as possible under msrp is the main goal...

When buying a vehicle. Don't focus so much on payment. Worry about actual purchase price. Car dealers are so focused on what payment are you looking for, so they can sneak in all the extra crap you really don't need.

You should seriously go to your credit union or bank and figure out what rate you qualify for. There you can get a baseline of what your payment can be.

Dealerships focus solely on your payment desire so they can manipulate numbers in their favor.

Example:
You want a 2013 Leaf with an msrp of $29,900

**Never ever pay full retail for a new car. Typically you can get them at invoice which is about $1000 less than msrp.**

28,900 minus 8k for your gas guzzling Sentra trade in.

$21,900 @ 1.9% for 60 months come out to about $382 a month.

Now you told the trustworthy car salesman you want to be under $450 a month.

He's thinking "sweet! thats over $65 a month I have to play with."

So you go back n fourth. He's running into that glass booth with all the dry erase marks on the window. Talking to the sales manager trying to get you a payment you like. What you don't know is he's really trying to figure out all the add-ons he can squeeze out of your desired payment.

So your sales man comes back and tells you "great news! we got you under your payment!" What he doesn't tell you is that you not only bought a new leaf, but you bought Gap insurance, the top of the line extended warranty, maintenance agreement, and a luster sealer.

28900 + 500 gap + 2500 ext warr +1200 maint contract + 500 sealer over $4700 in extras

33,600 minus 8k trade

25,600 @1.9% 60 months = $447.69 Just a hair under what you were comfortable with.

Now some of you are saying "I need those extras" while i somewhat agree you definately dont need them all. for starters.

Gap insurance. Now if you owe more than what the car is worth. Like no down or negative trade equity then I'd say yes Gap is needed.
$500 is alot of money to add on to a depreciating purchase. Also most insurance providers offer gap at a fraction of the cost from the dealer.

Ext warranty. If you are scared of uncertainty then maybe you should consider it. I highly reccomend you study the existing factory warranty before even thinking of adding one of these. The cost is so high and 95% of purchasers never get to use it for a major repair. Secondly, I'm not buying a yugo. Im buying a nissan. Just because it's an ev. Don't let them scare you into a warranty. Also, there are other avenues for obtaining a warranty than the dealership at a fraction of the cost.

Also maintenance plan is a huge waste. Most new cars especially the leaf require little maintenace. Pay for it as it comes up. Don't finance it and pay even more interest than you should.

Luster sealant. Come on folks. How hard is it to spend a few hours every other month with a can of turtle wax?

The only thing these extras do are add to your payoff and get people in trouble when they are upsidedown in the event of a wreck or needing to flush the car due to job loss or they simply don't like the car.

Another whammy is doc fee. $199 or less i can live with. some stealerships charge as much as $499 pay really close attention and most dealerships won't disclose that until you are signing papers.

They say that fee is non negotiable which is fine, but find ways to trim that cost during negotiations..

I realize a lease a little different, but bottom line read, read, read every cost involved.

These guys are trained (math magicians) they know what numbers work in their favor.

In closing, many dealerships add on a bunch of crap like pin striping, tint, clear bumper guards etc.
While many of these items are great they tend to have over a 100% markup. Tell them you don't want that stuff and 90% of the time they will remove the charge.

At the end of the day they need to make money, but try not to let them make it all from you.
 
Back
Top