not even a new leafer , its new in the whole country

My Nissan Leaf Forum

Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
XeonPony said:
Potential issue is the power grid at 200 to 240 so your power dongle that comes with it will be rated for 110V if you got it from the states. But you can get an upgraded evse that can do 200+ volts.


Aim to charge it on the lower amperage seting for the first couple cycles (This helps with cell balancing) this may improve things to a degree after a few cycles.

thanks for replay

i got a EVSE 220 V originally , that cause its EVSE was lost some where , the new EVSE is 220 V input ,16 AMP 3.7 KW , how can i charge it on lower amperage ? is there an option inside the car it self ?
 
patrick0101 said:
For a hot climate, it would have been better to get a 2015 or later; these have the "Lizard Battery". The heat will degrade the batteries. You can slow this some by not leaving battery as a high SOC in the heat. The pack should be in the middle third range any time it will be sitting in the heat. If you can find some cool underground parking that would help.

thanks for your reply

i know that i must charge it to 80% , but not leaving the SOC at high level , thats a new thing , my road trip daily is around 30 mile at heavy stop and go traffic , and i have an underground park at work and home ,
 
micro0me said:
patrick0101 said:
For a hot climate, it would have been better to get a 2015 or later; these have the "Lizard Battery". The heat will degrade the batteries. You can slow this some by not leaving battery as a high SOC in the heat. The pack should be in the middle third range any time it will be sitting in the heat. If you can find some cool underground parking that would help.

thanks for your reply

i know that i must charge it to 80% , but not leaving the SOC at high level , thats a new thing , my road trip daily is around 30 mile at heavy stop and go traffic , and i have an underground park at work and home ,

I envy you, my drive is 39miles at 80to 100kmpH constant, you are set!!
 
XeonPony said:
micro0me said:
patrick0101 said:
For a hot climate, it would have been better to get a 2015 or later; these have the "Lizard Battery". The heat will degrade the batteries. You can slow this some by not leaving battery as a high SOC in the heat. The pack should be in the middle third range any time it will be sitting in the heat. If you can find some cool underground parking that would help.

thanks for your reply

i know that i must charge it to 80% , but not leaving the SOC at high level , thats a new thing , my road trip daily is around 30 mile at heavy stop and go traffic , and i have an underground park at work and home ,

I envy you, my drive is 39miles at 80to 100kmpH constant, you are set!!

but its a heavy stop and go , is the leaf a good car in stop and go traffic ? dose that drain the battery faster ?
 
sorry for asking too much , i didnt try the car yet , because it need at least 10 days to finish the registration here and the custom fees
 
micro0me said:
XeonPony said:
micro0me said:
thanks for your reply

i know that i must charge it to 80% , but not leaving the SOC at high level , thats a new thing , my road trip daily is around 30 mile at heavy stop and go traffic , and i have an underground park at work and home ,

I envy you, my drive is 39miles at 80to 100kmpH constant, you are set!!

but its a heavy stop and go , is the leaf a good car in stop and go traffic ? dose that drain the battery faster ?

Not in my experiance in the city it thrives in that! So long as you don't pedal mash the accelerater, it uses very, it is speed that costs you the most, good use of regen and not pedal mashing you can drive nearly forever in the city.
 
micro0me said:
XeonPony said:
micro0me said:
thanks for your reply

i know that i must charge it to 80% , but not leaving the SOC at high level , thats a new thing , my road trip daily is around 30 mile at heavy stop and go traffic , and i have an underground park at work and home ,

I envy you, my drive is 39miles at 80to 100kmpH constant, you are set!!

but its a heavy stop and go , is the leaf a good car in stop and go traffic ? dose that drain the battery faster ?

Faster if compared to a moderate constant speed cruising at 30-40mph but not too bad if you drive gently and learn how to modulate brakes to maximize regeneration. A/C use will affect your mileage somewhat, but A/C in 2012 Leafs is fairly efficient, heater not so much.
 
patrick0101 said:
For a hot climate, it would have been better to get a 2015 or later; these have the "Lizard Battery". The heat will degrade the batteries. You can slow this some by not leaving battery as a high SOC in the heat. The pack should be in the middle third range any time it will be sitting in the heat. If you can find some cool underground parking that would help.

Patrick, that is not how it has been tracking with statistics. In Arizona, I have been getting the same degradation of my 2015 lizard battery as the original 2011 battery. The durability of the lizard battery has not proven any better in the hot climate. Nissan may have thought they were improved for hot climates but it has been a fail.
 
micro0me said:
XeonPony said:
Potential issue is the power grid at 200 to 240 so your power dongle that comes with it will be rated for 110V if you got it from the states. But you can get an upgraded evse that can do 200+ volts.


Aim to charge it on the lower amperage seting for the first couple cycles (This helps with cell balancing) this may improve things to a degree after a few cycles.

i got a EVSE 220 V originally , that cause its EVSE was lost some where , the new EVSE is 220 V input ,16 AMP 3.7 KW , how can i charge it on lower amperage ? is there an option inside the car it self ?

No, there is no way to set a lower amperage charge in the car. Some EVSE's like the GE Durastation will let you do that: http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-EV-Charger-Indoor-Outdoor-Level-2-DuraStation-Wall-Mount-with-18-ft-Cord-EVDSWGH-CP01/205808537
 
micro0me said:
XeonPony said:
Potential issue is the power grid at 200 to 240 so your power dongle that comes with it will be rated for 110V if you got it from the states. But you can get an upgraded evse that can do 200+ volts.


Aim to charge it on the lower amperage seting for the first couple cycles (This helps with cell balancing) this may improve things to a degree after a few cycles.

thanks for replay

i got a EVSE 220 V originally , that cause its EVSE was lost some where , the new EVSE is 220 V input ,16 AMP 3.7 KW , how can i charge it on lower amperage ? is there an option inside the car it self ?


I missed this post sorry, some you can, but if unmoded factory one you can not, how ever this is still plenty low amperage enough to make for a happy well balanced pack! Mine is geting due to be charged by the suplied evse too as I've noticed some cells geting rather out of balance.

My evse draws 12A from the grid, my L2 draws 29.4A from the grid (15Amps into the battery at l2)
 
If the grid can handle (and circuit breakers at home) charge at 240V and 16A (3,3kW really).
If it is too hard try to analyze the charger you have. Some do have switches inside that can
limit the current. If that is clearly not possible (charger is sealed and can't be opened) then
maybe you want to get European portable charger:
It works on 240V and sucks 10A (2kW charger). May be hard to get unfortunately.
 
thanks all for helping me , that an honor to me , i have another question , in 2012 , how can i lock the J1772 cord on the car , i dont want to wake up some day and find the EVSE stolen ! , mt garage is an public one , not private, its for the whole complex .
 
arnis said:
If the grid can handle (and circuit breakers at home) charge at 240V and 16A (3,3kW really).
If it is too hard try to analyze the charger you have. Some do have switches inside that can
limit the current. If that is clearly not possible (charger is sealed and can't be opened) then
maybe you want to get European portable charger:
It works on 240V and sucks 10A (2kW charger). May be hard to get unfortunately.

the one that i bough is like this exactly

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ReadyCharge-240v-Level-2-Electric-Vehicle-Charger-Portable-Edition/191794308681?_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109&_trkparms=aid%3D333008%26algo%3DRIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131231133846%26meid%3D9e60f301fa194577954f677b16807e7d%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D7%26rkt%3D22%26sd%3D201496945519


what do you think of it , i guess i cant change the current right ?
 
thanks all for helping me , that an honor to me , i have another question , in 2012 , how can i lock the J1772 cord on the car , i dont want to wake up some day and find the EVSE stolen ! , mt garage is an public one , not private, its for the whole complex .
 
IF you don't have this button:
2013-Nissan-LEAF-controls.jpg


Then maybe your plug has this hole:
pic


But it is more comfortable to lock the plug on the other side:
71g-a0%2BwGeL._SY355_.jpg


Also using any lock you can lock the cable to random thing: it can not be removed because there is a J1772 plug on one side and device on the other side. Or lock the cable between device and wallplug.

The best of the best is just install stationary EVSE and stick it in the ground and pour concrete on that :D
Something like that but cheaper:
TelefonixPowerPostEVSE.jpg

Something like that but plug in a metal box or EVSE bolted to that pole:
31Uo6YmJ9DL._SL500_.jpg
 
The charger in the car determines the maximum Amp draw based on the pilot signal from the EVSE. The 2012 Leaf will not draw more than 16A.

Your link shows an EVSE that draws a maximum of 16A at 240V. It may draw slightly more (18A?) if the Voltage is very low. You can connect to higher Amp circuits without problems. However it will overload a 15A circuit. Also, this unit does not seem to function on 120V.

Do a search here about securing the EVSE. There are a number of threads here that cover both EVSE issues. The Leaf Wiki has information as well.
 
91040 said:
The charger in the car determines the maximum Amp draw based on the pilot signal from the EVSE. The 2012 Leaf will not draw more than 16A.

Your link shows an EVSE that draws a maximum of 16A at 240V. It may draw slightly more (18A?) if the Voltage is very low. You can connect to higher Amp circuits without problems. However it will overload a 15A circuit. Also, this unit does not seem to function on 120V.

Do a search here about securing the EVSE. There are a number of threads here that cover both EVSE issues. The Leaf Wiki has information as well.

In my country, the voltage is 220 V , we don't have a 110 , that's why I got this EVSE
 
arnis said:
IF you don't have this button:
2013-Nissan-LEAF-controls.jpg


Then maybe your plug has this hole:
pic


But it is more comfortable to lock the plug on the other side:
71g-a0%2BwGeL._SY355_.jpg


Also using any lock you can lock the cable to random thing: it can not be removed because there is a J1772 plug on one side and device on the other side. Or lock the cable between device and wallplug.

The best of the best is just install stationary EVSE and stick it in the ground and pour concrete on that :D
Something like that but cheaper:
TelefonixPowerPostEVSE.jpg

Something like that but plug in a metal box or EVSE bolted to that pole:
31Uo6YmJ9DL._SL500_.jpg

Thanks a lot
 
If you are into do-it-yourself projects the OpenEV project has a nice unit that allows charge current selection.
http://store.openevse.com/
 
The battery of 2012 is not lasting in hot climate.
Battery temperature over 35Celcius is not good.
Pls. keep the car in the shade in summertime, and keep the battery not too hot: http://www.electricvehiclewiki.com/Battery_Capacity_Loss
Hi voltage combined with high temperature is destroying the battery. In the summertime you should avoid top charging and set a 80% limit.

Chinese EVSEs are not so reliable. I bought 3 pcs of the type Ebusbar 1 year ago, and now just one of them are working. And i have seen some cheap cables for sale, that does not provide any pilot signal: It is just a stupid cable. I don't know if Leaf will be working with that.
I had many EVSEs from EVSE-upgrade, and they are always working. The only problem i have with them, is that one of them is stucked to 16A. Usually the 2012 can be adjusted from 6-20A. Every time you plug in the power, it starts with default value that might be 16A. Then you can program it to another current. If you want another deafult value, you can specify when you order it. 2013+ does remember your adjustment, and you don't need any default value.
 
Back
Top