OpenEVSE - Open Source Charging Station

[borland]

So i have read nearly this entire thread and looked on the Open EVSE site and still can seem to find an answer...

Can someone point me in the right direction. I am purchasing a built OpenEVSE, What is required for final assembly? I know I need the J1772.

How would we know without you telling us what is meant by "built"? I guess we know they builder left out the J1772 (and cable), but how are we to know what else they left out?

chris1howell is selling a "built" package. I asked him in an email but I am sure he is busy. I was hoping someone here had already ordered a built package from him.

Chris is just selling the controller (built/kit) which, depending on how configured, may or may not include the LCD display & RTC. In addition to the controller, you will need to buy additional parts that are sized to suit the charging current requirements of your vehicle or limitations of the home wiring.

Besides the controller, what you need to complete a charging station system is a: relay, fuses (if needed), power plug (if powered by wall socket), J1772 Plug/Cable assembly, GFI current transformer, panel mount/water proof momentary switch, NEMA 4x enclosure (usually includes internal panel component mounting plate), gland nuts (2), and various hardware which includes wire, terminals, ferrite cores, ground block (unless the internal panel is used as such).

So, depending on the charging current, the parts and specifications will vary. Sourcing the parts that are suitable and at a reasonable price is the hardest part and subject to errors. Pricing of a complete system can vary widely depending on sources used and system specifications.

Once you have all the parts, the assembly is pretty trivial, however you may need to purchase specialized tools such as a ring terminal crimper or soldering iron.

 

[91040]

Here is the most recent list of components used for Chris's design: http://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/Workshop_NOCAL" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

As borland posted, there are additional items needed like 4/40 bolts and lock nuts, washers, pin connector, etc.. and tools.

Have fun!

 

[garygid]

Not illegal to sell things based on Open designs, I believe.

PM 91040 if you want DIY instructions, or inquire about
the OpenEVSE Plus that he built, and is willing to sell.

 

[srl99]

If you have any doubts - I recommend you find (or organize!) an OpenEVSE Build Day. There were some in SoCal, and there's one coming up in NoCal. Even if you don't build one, the knowledge you gain will help immensely.

Update: 4 spots open to build an OpenEVSE at the NoCal build day on May 18 in Alameda. PM or reply in this thread to reserve a spot, and get your parts ASAP: http://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/Workshop_NOCAL" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Update 2: A couple of folks have reconfirmed their seats - no problem. This is the same build day sponsored by the East Bay EAA, I'm just helping. ebeaa dot org - May 18.

Update 3: one spot open.

Update 4: all builder spots reserved. You are welcome to come and help or watch. We will also keep a list of alternates in case a builder can't attend.

 

[TonyWilliams]

If you have any doubts - I recommend you find (or organize!) an OpenEVSE Build Day. There were some in SoCal, and there's one coming up in NoCal. Even if you don't build one, the knowledge you gain will help immensely.

Update: 4 spots open to build an OpenEVSE at the NoCal build day on May 18 in Alameda. PM or reply in this thread to reserve a spot, and get your parts ASAP: http://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/Workshop_NOCAL" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Anybody who would like an OpenEVSE build day in San Diego on April 20, let me know here or on the "Next San Diego Meet" thread.

 

[bill]

Has anyone had their fuse blow while charging? I had one of the phases blow today. It nearly blew the cap off and had heat damage on the protected side of the holder. I guess the fast acting wasn't fast enough. The second phase fuse was deformed but didn't blow. I checked for shorts, replaced them both and everything looks good but I was wondering if anyone had seen something similar?

I think I'll replace my current open holder with the enclosed variety and switch to a ceramic fuse.

-Bill

 

[jjlink]

While talking about fuses; does anyone know why this is so expensive? ($22.15)

FUSEHOLDER 30A AGU Digikey $22.15 1 http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&keywords=283-3382-ND&cur=USD" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Its from the OpenEVSE Workshop parts list.
https://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/Workshop_NOCAL" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[borland]

While talking about fuses; does anyone know why this is so expensive? ($22.15)

FUSEHOLDER 30A AGU Digikey $22.15 1 http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&keywords=283-3382-ND&cur=USD" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Its from the OpenEVSE Workshop parts list.
https://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/Workshop_NOCAL" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

With a little effort, most parts listed can be sourced elsewhere:

http://octopart.com/bm6032pq-cooper-7612

Just be sure to check manufacture's maximum ratings to ensure your not buying parts rated at the supplied charging current, otherwise useful life will be greatly shortened.

 

[Barbouri]

While talking about fuses; does anyone know why this is so expensive? ($22.15)
FUSEHOLDER 30A AGU Digikey $22.15 1 http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&keywords=283-3382-ND&cur=USD.." onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.

Same fuseholder from Allied Electronics $14.49
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?sku=70149367#tab=specs" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It is also a high quality dual fuse holder with a 600 volt rating.

Greg C.

 

[jjlink]

Good info, Thanks for the replies about the fuse holder.

 

[mitch672]

Good info, Thanks for the replies about the fuse holder.

I found an even less expensive source (that I actually bought from and they shipped via USPS for $5), Zoro Tools:

Same part # BM6032PQ on the midget fuse holder, $7.21
http://www.zorotools.com/g/Midget%20Fuse%20Block/00010592/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I used these 30A time delay midget fuses, $3.09 each:
http://www.zorotools.com/g/00010027/k-G1141323/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

$18.39 total with shipping for the fuse holder and 2 fuses...

 

[eHelmholtz]

I've been using an OPEN EVSE unit for sometime now without problems but more recently, I plugged into an outlet off a lamp post with a GFCI test circuit outlet. Every time I plug in, the circuit trips and I have to press the reset button on the outlet. I set max current to 6A but it still trips. What have I got wrong?

 

[mitch672]

I've been using an OPEN EVSE unit for sometime now without problems but more recently, I plugged into an outlet off a lamp post with a GFCI test circuit outlet. Every time I plug in, the circuit trips and I have to press the reset button on the outlet. I set max current to 6A but it still trips. What have I got wrong?

You have nothing wrong. When OpenEVSE does it's "ground" check, it's sending a small current through the ground, and that trips many (ok, most) GFCI outlets. You would need to disable ground check, and auto L1/L2 detection to avoid the GFI from tripping (this can be done through various menus if you have the LCD display/menu button, if not, they are compile time options or set them through the serial FTDI interface)

 

[91040]

Can you override the GFCI by holding the reset button down when you plug in and during the checks?

I've been using an OPEN EVSE unit for sometime now without problems but more recently, I plugged into an outlet off a lamp post with a GFCI test circuit outlet. Every time I plug in, the circuit trips and I have to press the reset button on the outlet. I set max current to 6A but it still trips. What have I got wrong?

You have nothing wrong. When OpenEVSE does it's "ground" check, it's sending a small current through the ground, and that trips many (ok, most) GFCI outlets. You would need to disable ground check, and auto L1/L2 detection to avoid the GFI from tripping (this can be done through various menus if you have the LCD display/menu button, if not, they are compile time options or set them through the serial FTDI interface)

 

[w6vms]

Looking at the parts lists on the various builds featured on the wiki, it seems many folks are using a relay with contacts rated for 30 A.

I'm not sure about the longevity of the contacts without limiting the charging current to 24 A.

Has anyone had any problem with the relay contacts failing?

 

[borland]

Looking at the parts lists on the various builds featured on the wiki, it seems many folks are using a relay with contacts rated for 30 A.

I'm not sure about the longevity of the contacts without limiting the charging current to 24 A.

Has anyone had any problem with the relay contacts failing?

For 30 amp build, you might want to consider the Magnecraft W199X-7, open contact, but release time 30ms and rated at 40 amps.

http://octopart.com/w199x-7-magnecraft-25415

http://datasheet.octopart.com/W199X-7-Magnecraft-datasheet-11409.pdf

If the car's on-board charger delays pulling current until after contacts close, then you might be ok long term with that 30 amp rated relay.

 

[eHelmholtz]

You have nothing wrong. When OpenEVSE does it's "ground" check, it's sending a small current through the ground, and that trips many (ok, most) GFCI outlets. You would need to disable ground check, and auto L1/L2 detection to avoid the GFI from tripping (this can be done through various menus if you have the LCD display/menu button, if not, they are compile time options or set them through the serial FTDI interface)

Can you override the GFCI by holding the reset button down when you plug in and during the checks?

Thanks Mitch! I will have to disable ground check and L1/L2 detection next time I'm faced with this. 91040, I'll try it and report back when the opportunity arises.

 

[w6vms]

Looking at the parts lists on the various builds featured on the wiki, it seems many folks are using a relay with contacts rated for 30 A.

I'm not sure about the longevity of the contacts without limiting the charging current to 24 A.

Has anyone had any problem with the relay contacts failing?

For 30 amp build, you might want to consider the Magnecraft W199X-7, open contact, but release time 30ms and rated at 40 amps.

http://octopart.com/w199x-7-magnecraft-25415

http://datasheet.octopart.com/W199X-7-Magnecraft-datasheet-11409.pdf

Thanks, though the coil current on that part is quite a bit higher than the 30 A relay that a lot of folks are using.

What is the max current the open evse can handle?

-jav

 

[mitch672]

Thanks, though the coil current on that part is quite a bit higher than the 30 A relay that a lot of folks are using.

What is the max current the open evse can handle?

-jav

OpenEVSE itself fully implements the J-1772 Protocol, so 80A.
Of course, it's all dependent on 4 things:

The circuit breaker rating you are using (Must use a 100A breaker for an 80A rated EVSE)
The input wiring you are using (must be 3AWG THHN in a conduit)
The contactor you are using (needs to be rated at 80A)
The output wiring (J-1772 wiring and connector)

So it's all dependent on how you build it, really the components used...

See my 75A OpenEVSE build I use to charge my dual charger Tesla Model S:
http://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/75AOpenEVSE" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[borland]

Thanks, though the coil current on that part is quite a bit higher than the 30 A relay that a lot of folks are using.

What is the max current the open evse can handle?

-jav

For the 12V coil current..... you need to investigate the power supply ratings...

The Plus board's on-board power supply is a MicroPower AC/DC converter MPM-04D-1205E.

See datasheet. http://www.micropowerdirect.com/PDF Files/Datasheets/ACDC/MPM/MPM-04E-Datasheet.pdf

For +12VDC, datasheet shows 250mA max output (3W), but only 120mA max for +5V output (0.6W).

I haven't measured it, but Chris Howell told me "The DC\DC uses 0.2w idle and about 0.4w in the charging state".

The Magnacraft W199X-7... The coil is 70 ohms, so it uses about 2.0 watts continuous. This relay should be fine with the OpenEVSE Plus board.