Revision 2 upgrade for Nissan EVSE - Allows full level 2!

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Getting my charging system planned and have a question

95% of my charging will be done out doors at my house
I was planning an spx unit semi perm mounted (so I would only be plugging in the nozzle)

I am now considering having rev 2 and having a L6-20R recept mounted in an "in use cover"
On an outside wall of my garage.

How do you guys feel about plugging into a live 240v outlet when I arrive home on a rainy afternoon?

I will also have an outlet inside the garage for really cold or icy nights

My main concern is my safety :lol:

I want to avoid my wife collecting on my insurance too soon!
 
No !

So that answers my Question. rev 2 unless semi perm mounted is for indoor covered use?

And my outdoor unit should be a normal evse , spx , av rs , or maybe leviton
 
Guess I will be looking for a used av unit

Or maybe an spx if I can hide it or paint it white or tan to match the house

Wife is complaining about how the evse and cord will look

Ugh
 
Put the L6-20 just inside your garage door and keep the brick indoors and run the hose under yor garage door. It should close on it just fine. Anything after the brick is safe to use outdoors.
 
Keep in mind, even with 240v outlets, there is still only 120v above ground, so unless you somehow get a finger between the 2 hot prongs, there is really no increased shock hazard. If the 240v outlet is located outside, it requires protection by a GFCI breaker in any event.

Also note that in most other places in the world, they have 240v outlets outdoors.

I'm not condoning any use of 240v outside, if there is any question you should consult a qualified electrician first.

-Phil
 
I use an L6-20 outside, but it's a semi-permanent connection inside a box I built, with the EVSE screwed to the box. In other words, I bought the upgrade as an additional EVSE, and treat it as an inexpensive charging dock. I've only unplugged it once so far, to have along on a multi-day trip.

Ray
 
Ingineer said:
If the 240v outlet is located outside, it requires protection by a GFCI breaker in any event.
While one might expect that to be true, the requirements for GFCI protection found in NEC 210.8 apply only to 120V 15 or 20 amp receptacles.

Cheers, Wayne
 
If I use a separate relay to supply 240v to L1 and L2 using the stock pilot signal from my 120v charger, what's going to happen to the charge rate ?
 
If I understand your question, the answer is that the pilot signal from the EVSE says 12 amps. 12 amps at 240v is twice the watts as 12 amps at 120v, so it would appear to charge twice as fast. However the charger itself (which is inside the car, and doesn't provide the pilot signal) might have different efficiencies at the two voltages, and the power load due to the cooling system won't scale directly with voltage, and the taper as you approach 100% might be different, so the charging rate won't be exactly twice as fast.

At first I thought you were trying to say something about charging at L1 and L2 at the same time, but that isn't possible unless you are talking about two vehicles.

Ray
 
mike85233 said:
If I use a separate relay to supply 240v to L1 and L2 using the stock pilot signal from my 120v charger, what's going to happen to the charge rate ?

I think by L1 and L2 he may just mean the power pins in the J1772 (not Level 1 & Level 2 charging).

Basically the mod to the EVSE does what I think you are saying - changes the plug so you can send 240V instead of 120V to those pins. But it also has to have a different power supply, to run the pilot signal generator, inside that can run on 240V also. Further, I think the pilot signal is just for ampacity, so the stock 12a signal will work to do double speed charging from 240V.
One could butcher an EVSE cord and send 240V to the J1772 power pins, and run the neutered EVSE as just a 12A pilot signal generator (running on 120V), but that would be a kludgey abomination compared to just having Ingineer improve the innards of the stock portable EVSE. Further, you have the option to get the pilot signal generator changed to a 16A level so you get full speed charging from 240V.
 
mike85233 said:
If I use a separate relay to supply 240v to L1 and L2 using the stock pilot signal from my 120v charger, what's going to happen to the charge rate ?
This will work is done right, but be warned; this method will defeat the GFCI protection, which could result in a lethal shock hazard!

By the time you hack up your unit, (what is your time worth?) and buy new relays, you could have just let us do a professional and SAFE upgrade which keeps all the safety systems intact.

One other warning: if something goes wrong and you have a fire, and the insurance adjuster finds you hacked up a unsafe charge system, they may deny your claim!

-Phil
 
Ingineer said:
mike85233 said:
If I use a separate relay to supply 240v to L1 and L2 using the stock pilot signal from my 120v charger, what's going to happen to the charge rate ?
This will work is done right, but be warned; this method will defeat the GFCI protection, which could result in a lethal shock hazard!

By the time you hack up your unit, (what is your time worth?) and buy new relays, you could have just let us do a professional and SAFE upgrade which keeps all the safety systems intact.

One other warning: if something goes wrong and you have a fire, and the insurance adjuster finds you hacked up a unsafe charge system, they may deny your claim!

-Phil

Thanks for the replies guys, I was just curious, I looked inside the J1772 and the leads are crimped to the copper, not easy to deal with. I guess an insurance company could have a case with any tampering or modification to the OEM regardless who did it or how pretty it looks.
 
I've purchased my L2 EVSE upgrade and placed it safely in the trunk. To make use of it, I'm thinking of installing an L2 capable socket at the house of my friends and relatives that are 60 or so miles away. Then I could make day trips to visit them, rather than plan an overnight to allow time for an L1 charge. Since I'm largely ignorant, would you folks mind talking about a parts/installation specification? From what I've read on this forum, it seems like 240v 20 amp circuit breaker with dedicated line (using 40 amp wire for future upgrade possibility) into a box with an L6 plug is all that's needed.
 
Just one of these L6-20R's: http://www.lowes.com/pd_197480-334-L620R-L_0__?storeId=10151&Ntt=l6-20r&UserSearch=l620r&productId=1056947&N=0&catalogId=10051&langId=-1

a 20AMP 2-pole breaker for the type of panel they have (GE, SquareD QO or Homeline etc), and a piece of 12/2 or conduit and 3 12AWG conductors. I would not worry about 40AMP wire, its heavier, more expensive, and more difficult to terminate on the receptacle. You will also need a box and cover plate for the L6-20R as well...

Mitch
 
rdhauser said:
I've purchased my L2 EVSE upgrade and placed it safely in the trunk. To make use of it, I'm thinking of installing an L2 capable socket at the house of my friends and relatives that are 60 or so miles away. Then I could make day trips to visit them, rather than plan an overnight to allow time for an L1 charge. Since I'm largely ignorant, would you folks mind talking about a parts/installation specification? From what I've read on this forum, it seems like 240v 20 amp circuit breaker with dedicated line (using 40 amp wire for future upgrade possibility) into a box with an L6 plug is all that's needed.
A couple of other options if you don't already know about them is to simply make an adapter to plug into people's dryer outlets if they're near the garage. Or use a Quick220 to get 240V out of 2 non-GFCI out-of-phase outlets. It's much simpler and cheaper than installing special outlets at multiple people's houses. My son has been using either one of these solutions at his various friends' houses just fine. You just need a L6-20 extension cord or two, a couple of dryer adapters like a NEMA 10-30 and 14-30, a Quick220, and maybe a 120V extension cord. Then you're also set to connect at most RV parks as well if you wish.
 
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