Using a dryer circuit for an EVSE

[fhammond]

Thanks to everyone who replied to my questions. I am glad to be completely wrong, as it sounds like using a 16A or 24A EVSE will be fine.

I will definitely take the advice to use an electrician: there's no way I would want to do any of this myself. The odd thing (which I didn't mention earlier) is that I have been speaking to an electrician and he said that it wouldn't be possible (or at least not safe) to connect a 16 or 20A EVSE to a 30A circuit! Now I realize that completely doesn't make sense, so either I misunderstood him or I need to find another electrician!

Regardless, thanks for all the help.

 

[sergeyka]

ClipperCreek has a 20a evse. (LCS-25) Made for hardwire but you should be able to add a cord and plug it right in. Hardwire it with a switch if you are inclined.

Another option would be EL-50600-A used to be SPX, now it has BOSCH written all over it http://www.pluginnow.com/power-xpress" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. It can be adjusted to 24A to work with 30A dryer outlet.

 

[smkettner]

I would not buy anything related to SPX until it was known to have fixed the end timer issue.

 

[milesmutt]

Hey all,

New Leaf owner here.

Looking into getting L2 into my house as well, but here's my situation.

Got an older house (early 50's) with the electrical panel completely used. The 30A spot in the panel is currently being used by the A/C, but was for the
dryer before switching over to a gas dryer. We rarely ever run the A/C so here's my question.

Can I safely tap into the 30A with either Phil's modded EVSE to 240v outlet or the Bosch Power Max 16A unit?

I read somewhere that you can have a switch installed that would prevent both the A/C and the L2 unit being used at the same time.

Which would be the most cost effective approach?

Thanks in advance!

 

[smkettner]

I think you are better off with a sub panel or new main panel.
Are you sure no half size breakers are available?
What is the total service rating?

How about a pic?

 

[QueenBee]

I think you are better off with a sub panel or new main panel.
Are you sure no half size breakers are available?
What is the total service rating?

How about a pic?

Yeah, 50's panel might be scary. Does it have proper grounding, etc?

 

[milesmutt]

OK, here's the panel.

What's a half size breaker? One of those single 15 or 20A breakers? I'm sure all of them are taken.

Proper grounding? Dunno. Sorry, no electrical experience here. :|

All I know is, I'd like a better idea of what to expect before I call an electrician over. No way in heck I'd attempt any mods myself.





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[smkettner]

Yes the breakers on the right are half size. What the electrician will show you is a half size for the left side. It is a quad breaker so to speak.

BTW, I am fairly sure the oven should be on a double breaker vs two singles. Dishwasher and disposer should be on separate rather than a double breaker. Electrician will fix all this.

 

[milesmutt]

Yes the breakers on the right are half size. What the electrician will show you is a half size for the left side. It is a quad breaker so to speak.

BTW, I am fairly sure the oven should be on a double breaker vs two singles. Dishwasher and disposer should be on separate rather than a double breaker. Electrician will fix all this.

Thank you! We've owned this house for eight years and have yet to have an electrician inspect our panel and wiring.

It is about time we do considering the new purchase and the stress it might place on our electrical system.

 

[davewill]

... BTW, I am fairly sure the oven should be on a double breaker vs two singles. Dishwasher and disposer should be on separate rather than a double breaker. Electrician will fix all this.

Of course it's also possible that it's the labels that are wrong...another reason to pay an electrician to straighten out that panel. He can also do a load calculation to decide whether you have the capacity to add the EVSE. He can tell you if you can add it at all and if so, how big (20a, 30a, 40a...) you can go. Things here don't look so bleak at all. Am I the only one that thinks that panel looks newer than the 1950s?

 

[smkettner]

Your LEAF will charge fine with a 16a evse if needed. Only requires 20a circuit. So the quad breaker would be 2x 30a and 2x 20a. Can probably use the existing dryer wire assuming it was abandoned in place.

If electrician says Ok to 40a breaker you can get a 30a evse.

 

[wsbsteven]

Am I the only one that thinks that panel looks newer than the 1950s?

It has certainly been upgraded. My house was also built in the 50's and it had fuses which were replaced in our agreement to purchase the house.

 

[milesmutt]

Thanks for the help everyone!

 

[LeftieBiker]

This topic is pretty close to what I need, so...

I had thought that my garage had no 240 volt capability, but I recently found that there are two buried 10-3 cables running to it, and I can get 238 volts from two opposite fuse holes. That's right, it's a fuse box, but a fairly modern 60 amp, 6 circuit (3 in use) unit, with good romex-type cable running to it through conduit. So here is my plan: I'm going to get a Clipper Creek PCS-25, use two opposite fuses with 25A mini-breakers or slow-blow fuses in them, and since having just one fuse blow is dangerous, I'm going to run the cable to a nearby (either near the box or the EVSE) fusible quick disconnect, a Square-D 30 amp unit, down-rated with two 25 amp regular fuses. Then I'll run cable to a junction box inside the garage, with the CC EVSE mounted on the outside wall and the wiring running into the box through the wall. I will try to use conduit in the garage, but may run exposed cable in the "attic" instead. (The ceiling is kind of cluttered.)

Have I overlooked anything? I can't afford to replace the box (and see no need for it in this case), so please limit opinions to how to make this installation as good and safe as possible.

 

[Mx5racer]

What I did is ran my wires into a complete circuit breaker box but changed the main to 30 amp and then put in the circiut breaker for the evse.

 

[LeftieBiker]

If I find I have a small breaker box lying around (I seem to remember one from when I redid much of the house wiring 16 years ago) with an appropriate breaker I may go that route. Since the main idea is to provide a safe short protection / shutoff device, a fused shutoff should work as well. I've already ordered it, but I'm not 100% committed to using it - it was only $16.

 

[TonyWilliams]

The JESLA will plug directly into the dryer plug and pull the exact 24 amps (80% of 30 amp circuit for continuous use).

It is capable of 100-250 volts, 12 to 40 amps. Plugs are available that will automatically adjust the amperage depending on what socket it is plugged into. No programming required.

Lightweight and portable.

http://shop.QuickChargePower.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[LeftieBiker]

I've ordered the CC PCS (PSC?) 25, as I want to stay below 25 amps, but above 16. 20 amps seems perfect for me.

 

[smkettner]

This topic is pretty close to what I need, so...

I had thought that my garage had no 240 volt capability, but I recently found that there are two buried 10-3 cables running to it, and I can get 238 volts from two opposite fuse holes. That's right, it's a fuse box, but a fairly modern 60 amp, 6 circuit (3 in use) unit, with good romex-type cable running to it through conduit. So here is my plan: I'm going to get a Clipper Creek PCS-25, use two opposite fuses with 25A mini-breakers or slow-blow fuses in them, and since having just one fuse blow is dangerous, I'm going to run the cable to a nearby (either near the box or the EVSE) fusible quick disconnect, a Square-D 30 amp unit, down-rated with two 25 amp regular fuses. Then I'll run cable to a junction box inside the garage, with the CC EVSE mounted on the outside wall and the wiring running into the box through the wall. I will try to use conduit in the garage, but may run exposed cable in the "attic" instead. (The ceiling is kind of cluttered.)

Have I overlooked anything? I can't afford to replace the box (and see no need for it in this case), so please limit opinions to how to make this installation as good and safe as possible.

Is it really a FUSE box? Honestly if it is, I would have it replaced with a box with breakers and use the proper double breaker.

 

[GlennD]

A 240V breaker would be safer than 2 fuses. In the breaker if one side trips the whole circuit is opened.