YouTube Video Extreme Cold Weather Test Charging Batteries

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Because it does not have a battery warmer, or does not use it. Canadian LEAFs may be different.

Remember that the 40kwh packs do have battery warmers. The 60&62kwh packs have more thermal mass and cool more slowly, so which battery is the better bet is a judgement call depending on expected conditions, and whether or not a garage with outlets is available.

My own experience, with a 24kwh Leaf over 5 Winters, was that the charge rate at L-1 was about the same in frigid weather, but that L-2 was slower when the pack was at roughly zero bars.
 
LeftieBiker said:
Because it does not have a battery warmer, or does not use it. Canadian LEAFs may be different.

Remember that the 40kwh packs do have battery warmers. The 60&62kwh packs have more thermal mass and cool more slowly, so which battery is the better bet is a judgement call depending on expected conditions, and whether or not a garage with outlets is available.

My own experience, with a 24kwh Leaf over 5 Winters, was that the charge rate at L-1 was about the same in frigid weather, but that L-2 was slower when the pack was at roughly zero bars.

That's interesting. Makes me wonder if the Leaf will provide the correct 0.02C charging rate when able (via it's own OBC), but if you QC, the ChaDeMo can't charge at any power level lower than 3kW and thus just forces it into the battery (and cold damage to go with it). :eek:

At the bottom of this topic, I recorded a ChaDeMo forcing +60kW into a Gen 1 Leaf when it was only requesting 50 kW, so it's very possible for the QC station to *over-run* what the Leaf is requesting.
https://mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?t=33644&start=20
 
SageBrush said:
I know most of the attention the LEAF gets is its hot weather issues, but cold weather damage is real.

Amusing.

The FUD master is back. LEAF is one of the more reliable cars, according to Consumer Reports and various other sources. One of the safest cars, according to the https://www.iihs.org/ratings/driver-death-rates-by-make-and-model and various other sources.

Got any examples that might show Lithium plating from all the LEAFs in Norway? Canada? Capacity loss? Fires?

Just one example?

https://www.recurrentauto.com/research/lithium-plating
Lithium plating can be a nuisance, reducing battery capacity and power, or it can be a serious threat that can short circuit the battery.

How about this one, caused by a short circuit: https://www.teslarati.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Fire.jpg

Was that due to Lithium plating or not?
 
LeftieBiker said:
Because it does not have a battery warmer, or does not use it. Canadian LEAFs may be different.
Remember that the 40kwh packs do have battery warmers.

Agreed, some LEAFs do have a battery warmer although I'm not sure when they are used. I'm also not sure *which* LEAFs got battery warmers**. This OP tested a US based 62 kWh LEAF, which charged a -20F cold soaked pack at ~ 0.08C. It is a bit of an open question whether the car has a battery warmer and it was not used, or the car does not have a battery warmer. The latter seems a lot more likely..However you slice it, the ultra-cold pack charging behavior was in the Li plating neighborhood.

** The 2017 user manual I mentioned earlier says that SOME LEAFs are provisioned with a battery warmer, so we know that even before the 62 kWh LEAF was released, Nissan was selling at least some cars without.
 
When I left one of our Leafs outside for a couple days in the sub zero weather in December the battery % did come down, but can't say that was due to heater or resistive current.
 
LeftieBiker said:
The knuckle-headed result here was to not have a battery warming period, either because of bad programming or because some packs do not have a battery warmer.

No, because the Leaf warmer uses a small current (~300 watts) preemptively, to prevent the battery from getting too cold,
Evidence ? That would be up to ~ 7.2 kWh per 24 hours, easily noticed by even non-technical owners. And I'm still not sure which LEAFs are provisioned with that micro-heater, presuming it is real. And since the power draw is from the main pack the main contactors would be closed and the LEAF awake. So considerably more energy consumed per hour.

Too bad Kyle was not able to read the pack temperatures via OBD. Presuming the sensors worked at those temperatures.
 
The 300 watt battery warmer isn't mythical by any means. It has been well documented, starting from when Nissan began to include it with the heated seats and steering wheel in late 2012. You are apparently visualizing it as turning on when the air temp reaches a certain number, and then staying on for days. It doesn't work like that. The warmer turns on when the pack (not the air) temperature reaches something like 7F. That can take several days if the daytime highs get up into the mid twenties or higher. It then turns off when the pack temp goes back up to something like 11F, IIRC. As for noticing the consumption, we sure did and do. My car, when parked out in the cold wind by the Hudson River, would take about 2 days to turn its warmer on, but would then lose about 20-25% SOC a day until it switched off again. I left it plugged into L-1 under those conditions when possible.
 
Based upon Nissan service manuals, early 2011 LEAF's did not have cold weather package (no heated steering wheel, seats, and mirrors and no battery heater). Later 2011 and all 2012 through 2015 LEAF's in North America have cold weather package which includes heated steering wheel, front seats, and outside mirrors along with traction battery heater. Some model years and trim levels had heated rear seats, but not all. The service manual I have for 2016 has descriptions for four battery types (24 kWh with heater for Canada, 24 kWh without heater, 30 kWh with heater for Canada, and 30 kWh without heater) so one would need to look at the VIN and the service manual chart to determine the type originally included with a particular car. The service manual I have for 2019 has descriptions for three battery types (40 kWh without heater for USA and Mexico, 40 kWh with heater for Canada, and 62 kWh without heater for USA and Canada). Again, one would need to look at the VIN and service manual chart to confirm battery type in a particular car.
 
Yikes - NO battery heater for the US 40kwh packs? Thanks for that info, and for the correction on the 2011-2012 cars. I've got to rely less on my failing memory, and more on younger and sharper brains here.
 
GerryAZ said:
Based upon Nissan service manuals,

Ahhh ... so THAT is where the information is published.
Good to know it at least exists *somewhere*, although it is pretty telling that only one person in this forum was clued in. :lol:

Gerry, what else can you say about the pack heater through the model years ?
Power ?
Heating algorithm ?
 
LeftieBiker said:
The 300 watt battery warmer isn't mythical by any means. It has been well documented, starting from when Nissan began to include it with the heated seats and steering wheel in late 2012. You are apparently visualizing it as turning on when the air temp reaches a certain number, and then staying on for days. It doesn't work like that. The warmer turns on when the pack (not the air) temperature reaches something like 7F. That can take several days if the daytime highs get up into the mid twenties or higher. It then turns off when the pack temp goes back up to something like 11F, IIRC. As for noticing the consumption, we sure did and do. My car, when parked out in the cold wind by the Hudson River, would take about 2 days to turn its warmer on, but would then lose about 20-25% SOC a day until it switched off again. I left it plugged into L-1 under those conditions when possible.
Your consumption data sounds reasonable and consistent with pack heating.

I agree with your description of how the heating would work, that is why I said up to 300 watts * 24 hours per day just for heater use and not including the energy cost of keeping the car awake during heating. When the ambient is -20C or so, heat loss is right around 300 watts. You did not see the maximum 24 hour energy consumption because your locale is not cold enough, for long enough. And few places in the US are, outside of unusual extreme weather events like we had last week.

Now we know thanks to Gerry that the 40 kWh LEAFs in the US, and all 62 kWh LEAFs, do not have a pack heater of any sort. So it is not possible for these cars to hold the pack temperature during a cold spell, or to heat up the pack prior to charging. And Kyle's video shows that the LEAF will send 5.2 kW to a pack that has been cold-soaked in ambients of -10F --- -20F for two days. Is that enough time to say that the pack was at ambient ? I'll guess yes, but others may have data or experience. The thermal transfer kinetics are not physically different than the copious reports of how long it takes the battery to cool down after over-heating in the summer, although the calcs have to be converted to Kelvin.

My earlier comments hold: US LEAFs from 40 kWh and newer are vulnerable to Li plating during charging in very cold weather, and the onus of prevention is on the consumer. Canadian 40 kWh LEAFs can be better, since the pack is unlikely to cool beyond -1F or so if connected to shore power or have a high enough SoC. No help for those who park on the street or are unaware of the SoC requirement, but who cares about them ? I wonder if 0.13 C rate in a -1F pack is Li plating territory at 90 - 95% SoC. Canadian 62 kWh LEAFs are as vulnerable as the US variety.

If I owned a LEAF without a battery heater, I would not use delayed charging in very cold weather. Heck, I don't even use delayed charging in my Bolt in our moderate winters, and it has pack thermal control. But I am obviously very cautious in this matter, in part because I charge at 9.6 kW.
 
Except for cases where the pack is near depleted, or the car is unable to activate even its heater, it should still be possible to warm the pack somewhat, by applying a load to it. (This would be much like the practice of running the headlights on an ICEV to warm the 12 volt battery enough to start the car.) That is why there was so much speculation that the 62kwh cars might have a 'software heater' that just applied a significant load to the battery. This looks like a job for knightmb and the other Intrepid weekend researchers here: to see how much running the heat (the PTC would be in use here, in frigid temps) can raise the pack temperature when it is in zero temperature bar and colder territory. It would also be a good idea to try to measure how much L-1 charging can prevent extreme cold inside the traction battery...
 
LeftieBiker said:
Except for cases where the pack is near depleted, or the car is unable to activate even its heater, it should still be possible to warm the pack somewhat, by applying a load to it.

I^2 * R
Meaning not enough to matter, and only while the load is connected.

E.g., if the load is 5 kW for 30 minutes and pack voltage is 360V
I = 5000/360 = 13.9 Amps
R = ~ 150 mOhms
P = 13.9*13.9*0.15 = 29 watts
Over 30 minutes that is 15 Wh of heat into the pack

You may as well feed ONE peanut to an elephant and expect measurable weight gain

The ICE story is not applicable here. That was a case of resistance heating in a ~ closed space.
 
The service manuals delineate USA vs. Canada, but that may not be the full picture. One would need to check the VIN along with the information in the service manual to determine the heater installation status. It is quite possible that cars ordered for delivery to colder climates in the USA could have been equipped with Canadian specifications. Also, my experience with the 62 kWh battery is that it tends to warm up a little in the coldest conditions I have exposed it to during charging or driving so I strongly doubt that L2 charging in really cold conditions would hurt the cells. The battery temperature does not tend to increase as much during L2 charging in warmer temperatures--the characteristics of the 62 kWh battery are significantly different than the 24 kWh battery in my 2015.
 
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