Fast Low Cost Charging - All EVSE Questions Answered!

[Ingineer]

I've used my "Quick240" for over a year with my Plug-in Prius, and now with the Leaf, and I've never once tripped a breaker by overloading it. However, I have unwittingly plugged the unit into several outlets that were protected by GFCI's, and of course they immediately trip. Though outside of those few, I've always pulled 16A with no trips. The only real worry is a shared circuit, say you plug it into a line that shared with a fridge. This is going to be a problem regardless of 12/16A, it will probably trip. Try to be vigilant and look for unloaded circuits.

For me most of these opportunity charges are from 1 to 4 hours, so the 25% increase in charge speed by having rev2 is definitely appreciated!

-Phil

 

[91040]

Had no problem using a "quick 220" drawing 16A on two 15A circuits until they added the Christmas tree on one.

 

[fooljoe]

the difference between Revision 1 and 2 is that when on 240V, the rev2 unit will run at 16A vs 12A for the rev1. The Rev2 unit is 25% faster.

Actually the Rev2 unit is (16-12)/12 = 33% faster

To anyone listening, I'd definitely recommend going for the Rev2 upgrade over Rev1. I've used my homemade quick240 on 15 amp circuits just fine. I have actually tripped breakers a few times with no obvious other loads, but I invariably just reset the breaker and the charge will continue just fine. It's worth the minor inconvenience for that extra 33%!

Now what would really be awesome would be a quick240-type device that can work on GFCI-protected outlets (maybe some kind of homemade dual-input transformer?) It seems with newer homes all the good outlets are GFCI'd and good luck finding a pair of outdoor outlets anywhere that aren't GFCI'd.

 

[planet4ever]

Actually the Rev2 unit is (16-12)/12 = 33% faster

Well, all I know is that my Rev1 is always finished when I get up in the morning.

Actually, it may be 33% faster for an 80% charge, but I'm sure it can't be for a 100% charge, because as the charge rate tapers that ratio also tapers, and once the current is limited to 12A or less the two EVSEs work at exactly the same speed.

Ray

 

[Ingineer]

Tests reveal Rev2 is at a minimum 25% faster than Rev1 to 100%. It can be up to 35% faster to 80%. This is do to the effect Ray mentioned, but also don't forget the fixed overhead.

Fooljoe: You can use a 1:1 120v isolation transformer to build a "Quick220" type device that will work on GFCI protected circuits, but it will have to be rated for 2kVA and thus BIG and HEAVY. (~50lbs) Unless you can find one surplus, or wind your own from an old microwave oven transformer, they are also not cheap!

-Phil

 

[dglot]

Hi Phil,

Is the correct way to check on availability and time frame of upgrades through the website? I left an question there.
I can also be contacted here.
Thanks,

Dave Glotfelty

 

[HankHillNeedsALeaf]

Sooo, I messed up. I thought I was going about things the right way by getting a 30amp 240v dryer outlet installed in my garage prior to getting my Leaf. I ordered the upgraded EVSE and received it quickly. It's perfect except that it requires a NEMA L6-20R Outlet.
From the photos in this thread http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=1450&start=10 it appears that I have a NEMA 14-30 (modern appliance plugs designed to replace the old 10-30 and 10-50 plugs with a safer design that has separate neutral and ground lines)

So my question is, how should I proceed:

1. Call my electrician and see if they can change the plug to a NEMA L6-20R

2. Purchase an adaptor like the one listed here for $60: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=3085&start=0

3. Attempt to make my own adaptor using items from Lowes/Home Depot (I'm not electrically savvy but can learn quickly).

Any feedback is greatly appreciated

 

[muus]

If you're not going to use the plug for anything other than to charge your car using the upgraded EVSE then I would change the outlet to a NEMA L6-20R.

 

[DaveinOlyWA]

Replace the plug yourself. It is an easy job. Make sure you shut off the breaker. Parts cost $10 maybe more if you change the box

 

[fooljoe]

1. Call my electrician and see if they can change the plug to a NEMA L6-20R

2. Purchase an adaptor like the one listed here for $60: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=3085&start=0

3. Attempt to make my own adaptor using items from Lowes/Home Depot (I'm not electrically savvy but can learn quickly).

Either would work fine. As muus said, I would advise changing the outlet if you're not using it for anything else, and you can do it yourself even more easily than making an adapter. Making/buying an adapter is a good idea in either case, as you might want to charge up at a friend's who has a 14-30 outlet.

For changing the outlet yourself (or making an adapter), you'll only need 3 of the 4 wires used by the current one. Just cap off the white neutral wire which is currently connected to the L-shaped hole.

 

[tps]

I think if you change to a 20A socket you also have to change the breaker to 20A, however you do not have to replace the wire. If I were in your situation, I'd probably just use an adapter cable. I made a nice one from a Camco 50A RV plug (which works for both 30A and 50A if one removes the neutral blade).

 

[fooljoe]

I think if you change to a 20A socket you also have to change the breaker to 20A, however you do not have to replace the wire. If I were in your situation, I'd probably just use an adapter cable. I made a nice one from a Camco 50A RV plug (which works for both 30A and 50A if one removes the neutral blade).

There's no reason you'd have to change the breaker from a functionality standpoint. Perhaps for code, but if you're worried about that then there are a whole host of other things you should also worry about, like using an adapter cable or even just using an EVSE at all that's not hardwired.

 

[garygid]

I think if you change to a 20A socket you also have to change the breaker to 20A, however you do not have to replace the wire. If I were in your situation, I'd probably just use an adapter cable. I made a nice one from a Camco 50A RV plug (which works for both 30A and 50A if one removes the neutral blade).

The Camco 14-50 has a handle that makes it much safer to use.
I bought mine from Amazon.com and it was shy $20, a I recall.
I made adapters, like this L6-20R to 14-50P (without Neutral).
Without the neutral pin, it can be used at a 14-30R (post-1996
dryer socket) or 14-50R socket (often found at RV Parks).

The L6-20R might be better for repeated plug-in/out cycles?

 

[davewill]

There's no reason you'd have to change the breaker from a functionality standpoint. Perhaps for code, but if you're worried about that then there are a whole host of other things you should also worry about, like using an adapter cable or even just using an EVSE at all that's not hardwired.

Why? Neither of those things violate code. I would definitely just make an adapter rather than change the outlet. You're probably going to want the adapter, anyway. If you're the least bit unsure about building it yourself, then buy it.

 

[smkettner]

I would go with changing the outlet and breaker. Then eventually I would probably look at Leviton or Legrand (Home depot.com) that will work fine on 20a circuit.

 

[planet4ever]

There's no reason you'd have to change the breaker from a functionality standpoint. Perhaps for code, but if you're worried about that then there are a whole host of other things you should also worry about, like using an adapter cable or even just using an EVSE at all that's not hardwired.

Why? Neither of those things violate code.

You are right that an EVSE can be pluggable if it is inside, but I believe most, if not all, adapters do violate code. The requirement is that the EVSE must be very close to the outlet -- either 12" or 18", I don't remember which right now. The reason is that the safety mechanisms built into the EVSE protect only between it and the car.

If I were doing it I would buy an L6-20R and a dual 20A breaker (checking first to see which type is used in the breaker box) and replace both those myself, keeping the old ones in case I sell the house. It's really not dangerous to replace a breaker. Just flip it to the off position, loosen and remove the wire from each section, pull it out, push in the new one, insert and tighten the two wires. You don't even need to power down the house, with all the clock resetting and family irritation that might entail.

Naturally you don't want to poke a screwdriver in the wrong place if you are touching the shaft of it. :shock:

Ray

 

[EVDRIVER]

Use an adapter then you can use it elsewhere for more flexibility. No need to change the breaker and the Panasonic EVSE is internally fused.

 

[ebill3]

Use an adapter then you can use it elsewhere for more flexibility. No need to change the breaker and the Panasonic EVSE is internally fused.

Exactly.

Go to eBay, search 'EVSE adapters'. Forty bucks incl shipping. Quality, quick, easy, safe.

Bill

 

[MrIanB]

Got my EVSE upgrade yesterday and it works as advertised. It charged a whole lot quicker and service was great. Just sent them my original one today so they can hook up the next person, almost like paying it forward. If you are thinking of this upgrade, you will not regret it.

Ian B

 

[cracovian]

Quick question for Phil and everyone... I'd like to use my upgraded unit for public trickle charging (120V) in a few days. Ideally, I'd like to keep the "box" in the car, so no one messes with it or steals it and use the extension cord to come out of the slightly open window. The 2ft adapter is obviously too short but can I plug this 5-15P adapter into another ~25 ft #12 extension cord to give me that extra needed reach? Phil states "DO NOT use extension cord" in his flyer but woudn't it be safe to use one for 120 Volt charging?