Aerovironment EVSE install information

[kavrad]

Thanks for the photo, Electric4Me. After asking AE for a requote a few weeks ago, they finally called me back today. They wouldn't give me a discount. The rep said the reason for the higher than average $3200 quote is that the electric panel is rather old and the tandem breaker unit that would replace a standard width breaker is expensive! What a joke. They are readily available, about $10-$12. I guess they think no one knows what they are saying and would believe anything they say. I asked him what he had down as the cost of the breakers and he said he didn't know! I have absolutely no faith in this company at this point.

 

[EVDRIVER]

My Aerovironment EVSE was installed a couple of days ago. I just measured its standby current to be 24 mA at 240 V for a standby power of about 6 Watts. Not to bad.

Six watts is not so great for a device with no real parasitic load other than an LED or two. My AV surround receiver has a standby of 2 watts and my 32" LCD TV is 1.8 watts, six is high for a device like that. It should be under 2 watts.

 

[LEAFer]

My Aerovironment EVSE was installed a couple of days ago. I just measured its standby current to be 24 mA at 240 V for a standby power of about 6 Watts. Not to bad.

Six watts is not so great for a device with no real parasitic load other than an LED or two. My AV receiver has a standby of 2 watts and my 32" LCD TV is 1.8 watts, six is high for a device like that. It should be under 2 watts.

@thimel: Thanks for that info. How did you measure this ? Did you also measure each phase separately ?

 

[LEAFer]

After asking AE for a requote a few weeks ago, they finally called me back today. ... I have absolutely no faith in this company at this point.

When you say "AE" do you mean "AV" (AeroVironment) ? And "this company" is AV or are you refering to the local electric subcontractor ? Who did you speak to on the phone (local or AV direct) ?

 

[thimel]

My Aerovironment EVSE was installed a couple of days ago. I just measured its standby current to be 24 mA at 240 V for a standby power of about 6 Watts. Not to bad.

Six watts is not so great for a device with no real parasitic load other than an LED or two. My AV receiver has a standby of 2 watts and my 32" LCD TV is 1.8 watts, six is high for a device like that. It should be under 2 watts.

@thimel: Thanks for that info. How did you measure this ? Did you also measure each phase separately ?

With the circuit breaker off, I opened up the junction box of the cutoff switch, disconnected one of the phases and reconnected it through my digital multimeter. I then turned the circuit breaker back on and read the meter while keeping my distance from the exposed wires. Don't try this if you are not familiar with electrical circuits! It is only necessary to measure a single phase as there is no neutral wire and no current should be flowing to ground.

As far as whether six watts is excessive, my older computer/stereo/TV electronics typically draw 6 Watts of vampire power when nominally off. Newer ones draw less than one. Credit the improvement to California asking manufacturers to reduce such loads to less than 2 Watts a few years back. Many 6 Watt loads add up. A single one costs about $6/yr in electricity (at electricity rate of 0.11 cents/kW-hr).

 

[curtegg]

Finally got my charging station in (standard installation type) and approved. Got to talk a bit with the electrician (was actually from Aero-Environment and not a sub-contractor) that he also installed charging stations at Lance's home and bike shop. He was a nice guy and threw in an extra 120v outlet above the charger since I already had another circuit going in the same conduit. He claimed my city (Rialto, Ca.) was one of the worst city's for pulling permits (claimed it took over 8 hours). They (the city) required extra stuff like a drawing of my housing tract and a breakout box which really isn't needed. The Aero-Environment guy had this cool test box and ran the charger through its paces. Its surprising how loud the solenoid switches are when they are engaged (popping sound). Finally, tonight the city inspector came out and gave the final okay to the charger and claimed I was the first in Rialto and asked a bunch of questions about the car. Now, if only that "Pending" would change now :lol:

If I knew how to attach an image, I would show the installation.

 

[Boomer23]

If I knew how to attach an image, I would show the installation.

curtegg, we'd love to see your pictures.

This has been described before, but simply put, get a free account at Imageshack.com, upload your photos to Imageshack. Prepare your message for the image by clicking the Img icon above, which will insert

in your message. Post your image by going to Imageshack, right click on the image, copy the image URL and paste it here in between

. Do this for each image.

Cheers

 

[prberg]

So what do people think of the AV unit. I think most of us know that Aerovironment is a bit of a shady company (trying to overcharge so many people on the EVSE install) but I am wondering what people think of their EVSE? I've seen the unit at the Nissan drive event and it seemed like a decent unit. Seemed pretty sturdy and durable. It does seem to stick out from the wall quite a bit, but I guess that isn't a huge deal. What does NEMA 4 enclosure mean? Can I leave it outside, directly in the elements (sun, rain, etc) and it will be ok? Will sunlight breakdown the plastic and crack it after a few years? Hopefully it will be somewhat protected from the UV rays.

I would love to hear some more opinions on the unit. Also can someone clarify from what side the power can enter the unit. Seems like the most elegant install is to power the unit from the back so you don't see the conduit. But I am mounting on the outside of my stucco house so I have to run some conduit. Does the conduit and power have to come in from the bottom or can it come into the unit from the side as well?

Would love to hear some opinions of those who have seen the unit. Thanks alot.

-Peter

 

[mwalsh]

Also can someone clarify from what side the power can enter the unit. Seems like the most elegant install is to power the unit from the back so you don't see the conduit. But I am mounting on the outside of my stucco house so I have to run some conduit. Does the conduit and power have to come in from the bottom or can it come into the unit from the side as well?

Would love to hear some opinions of those who have seen the unit. Thanks alot.

-Peter

From the pictures I've seen, the stock way for power to come in is through the bottom of the left hand side (as you look at the unit). The rear entry, unless I'm missing something, you'll have to drill out a hole in the back of the unit (don't know what that would do to your warranty), even though I've seen it done that way in the EVSE installation video, and the mounting plate shown in that same video will accommodate that.

That said, the mounting plate (if it's the same as shown in the video) will only bolt to a stud on the right hand side of a junction box, if you do go in from the back. Unfortunate if your stud happens to be on the left of your junction box!

 

[Boomer23]

I thought I'd post that I pulled the trigger on the AV install this evening. Scheduled the install for Dec 15. There were a few other open dates in December also, I think there were three days between Christmas and New Years. The electrician that did the assessment back in July was Aliso Electric here in Orange County, so I assume they'll be the installers.

I had already decided to have a local electrician do a panel upgrade to resolve my overcrowded 100 Amp main panel issues and to allow space to install a TED 5003 monitoring system with three MTUs.

I compared the cost to have AV do the EVSE install vs having my electrician install the breaker and run 60 feet of conduit to a plug in the garage, and AV didn't come off too badly by comparison, especially considering AV's warranty on an install vs just selling the EVSE. If Leviton or SPX had come through with a good price sooner, they might have gotten the business.

My costs:
*Upgrade old 100 Amp panel to new 200 Amp panel: $2,300 (a bargain, includes TED 5003 installation)
*Install 40 Amp breaker, run 60 feet of conduit and Romex through attic, across atrium garden, into garage to new EVSE.
$2,536
*AV Assessment fee: $100

Total: $4,936.

I know, not cheap, but my garage is far from my panel, I have no 240 Volt plugs in my garage or anywhere nearby, and with solar, my 30+ year old 100 Amp main panel was maxed. I just hope I get the $5K from California, it'll just cover my renovation and EVSE costs!

 

[garygid]

The $100 AV assessment fee should be applied towards paying AV's Total EVSE & Install fee, if that has not already been done.

 

[Boomer23]

The $100 AV assessment fee should be applied towards paying AV's Total EVSE & Install fee, if that has not already been done.

Yes, the $100 is being applied. The actual AV total was $2,636. I chose to express the amounts with the $100 separately, since that money was already spent when I was making my decision. If I hadn't gone with AV, that $100 would have been spent anyway, adding to the cost of the alternative choice.

 

[curtegg]

Finally got an account on image shack so I can post what my installation looks like.

 

[thimel]

From the pictures I've seen, the stock way for power to come in is through the bottom of the left hand side (as you look at the unit). The rear entry, unless I'm missing something, you'll have to drill out a hole in the back of the unit (don't know what that would do to your warranty), even though I've seen it done that way in the EVSE installation video, and the mounting plate shown in that same video will accommodate that.

That said, the mounting plate (if it's the same as shown in the video) will only bolt to a stud on the right hand side of a junction box, if you do go in from the back. Unfortunate if your stud happens to be on the left of your junction box!

I've looked at the installation instructions that came with my AV EVSE. The EVSE comes with a hole in the back so the wire can be run out the back. It is NOT necessary to drill one. There is also a hole in the mounting plate for that same cable to pass through.

 

[kolmstead]

Sarah at AV just emailed me that for those of us involved in the "cash and carry" deal who were contacted by AV last week, the EVSEs are in stock and should ship this week, despite the estimated delivery date of January 14 that shows up after you buy the unit. That would be good, since as far as we know, the 50% federal tax credit on EVSEs does not carry over into 2011. Total price with tax and shipping was $830.56.

So maybe I'll be able to post pictures of my new self-installed AV EVSE next week. It will look a lot different than anything I've seen pictures of so far. It is going on a metal box on a pedestal. No drywall in my shop carport.

 

[mwalsh]

Sarah at AV just emailed me that for those of us involved in the "cash and carry" deal who were contacted by AV last week, the EVSEs are in stock and should ship this week, despite the estimated delivery date of January 14 that shows up after you buy the unit. That would be good, since as far as we know, the 50% federal tax credit on EVSEs does not carry over into 2011. Total price with tax and shipping was $830.56.

Yes, I heard back from her too...shipping today!

 

[JPC2822]

Me THREE! My AV unit will ship this week as well! Have you all already prepared for the install of the AV unit? Any items we can purchase for the install ahead of time? I mean that if we can purchase wiring or whatever BEFORE our licensed electrician comes out? I was looking for circuit breakers and wiring at home depot but I am lost, do not have a clue of what to buy!

 

[mwalsh]

I was looking for circuit breakers and wiring at home depot but I am lost, do not have a clue of what to buy!

I would leave it all to your electrician, but you basically need a 40A dual-pole breaker, matching the ones already in your panel.

 

[kolmstead]

I wouldn't buy a thing, if I were having an electrician do the installation. But, if you want to get the right breaker, look at the ones in your existing panel. They'll say something line "Type HOV", or something similar. The new breaker will need to have the same designation, or it won't fit. And it needs to be 'double pole'; it has to switch both sides of the 230 Volt power, so it will be twice as wide as the more common 15 or 20 Amp breakers that feed 115 VAC to your outlets. Look for what your dryer or electric range uses.

As I recall, AV has been recommending 40A breaker. Wire size #8 or larger (smaller number is bigger wire). Lethal voltages inside that panel; be careful!

 

[JPC2822]

Thanks kolmstead!
I will see what the licensed electricians quote me first! Of course I WILL NOT touch my electrical panel and wiring! I am not a risk taker!
Take care!